The Power of the Dark Side (Dauntless 225) |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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What about 2 rear facing manifolds?
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 646 |
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If he has the room on drivers side Passenger side is never a problem, either way.
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 646 |
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Yea, maybe to some. $300 ain't a lot when doing exhaust or conversion work... It solves a lot of headaches. The AA product is designed for 225 in a flatty. My original set lasted 30 years. I just replaced them 1 or 2 years ago. Minimal fender tweaking is all that was required. No cutting of fenders. Keep in mind engine placement can make all the difference in the world.
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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I see your point... |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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A gentleman who I buy parts from (who will remain unnamed) was discussing the V6 engines that have been in jeeps and was telling me about how it is a terrible engine that is far too high revving to be of any use off road. I found this interesting because it would appear that the rest of the offroad world would disagree. I told him this and he of course informed me that they were all wrong. Telling me more about how the V6s lack low end torque. It made me wonder if we were talking the same language, but he once again specified the dauntless. Having seen several of these V6 in action I don't think he could have been more off the mark. Very strange as I have always found this gentleman very knowledgeable.
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 646 |
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<shrug>
just his opinion.... sounds like a diesel guy or an IH guy |
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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I would possibly consider the Buick 198 or the alumimum 215 Fireball engines as having high revving potential but not the longer stroked Dauntlless. All one needs do is look at the maximum Torque / HP and RPM figures to understand the engines optimum RPM operating range.
I find the Dauntless to be operating in the ideal rpm range. Not to fast and not too slow. It's just right for both on-road and off-road use. This is what I call "engine ranging". It is an important portion of the "ranging" topic in general.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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windyhill
Member Joined: 14 Mar. 2009 Location: North East PA Status: Offline Points: 1395 |
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The guy who said the 225 is a bad engine and to high revving for a Jeep is full of it! It will chug down to 150 rpms, gobbs of torque! And those who say that a Willys doesn't need a v6 may have a little point but probably haven't ever done the swap. Yes Willys are fun in stock form, I use my stock 2A often but the v6 just makes me smile when I take it out! It makes the jeep so much more drivable! I have both. MY 53 is resto modded. 225 v6, T18, 11" brakes, overdrive.
Go for the 225! I used stock cj5 motor mounts, my stock cross member, and even stock drive shafts. Save up and swap a T18 ford 4 speed at the same time. Really worth it! Then Upgrade your brakes to 11" drums. I don't really like headers so I went with stock manifolds ( driver side from a buick car) I also swapped my stock steering to a manual sagnaw box keeping my stock steering wheel and column, so it feels like my old willys but goes down the road smoothly. Have fun Been running mine for 15 years now.... WELCOME TO THE DARK SIDE!!!!! Edited by windyhill - 31 July 2015 at 2:36am |
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'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B '59 CJ6 '65 CJ5 '67 CJ5 |
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Speedy
Member Joined: 07 Apr. 2010 Location: Toronto Canada Status: Offline Points: 531 |
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you mean you did not have to move the cross member?! or touch the fire wall?
I have a conversion here for buick and chevy this is tempting now.
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- Mike
47 CJ2A - Warn OD, Ramsey PT1-J/Koenig 100,Arctic top,Dana 44 30 spline full float with disc's,Dana 30 with discs, 2.5 lift, Saginaw power steering, dual master cylinder |
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windyhill
Member Joined: 14 Mar. 2009 Location: North East PA Status: Offline Points: 1395 |
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No mods to the fire wall at all for tghe buick v6 (dist. is in the front, Chevy in the rear, I used my stock cross member (I did add a bracket to the back to have the mount for the T18/ dana18 sit on). My stock drive shafts worked without cutting. I took stock v6 motor mounts off a 66-71 cj5. The stock Buick bell housing will work as well with the T18. You have to have the hole machined out to and the transmission retainer turned down to a slip fit. I found a stock clutch/ flywheel set at my local parts place that even worked. I think it was for a 79ish cj? it had the ford transmission splines and the pressure plate bolted up to the stock Buick flywheel. It's been a while.
Edited by windyhill - 31 July 2015 at 3:15am |
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'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B '59 CJ6 '65 CJ5 '67 CJ5 |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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I had a setback today. I have the entire front of the engine together, put the timing cover on with sealant and torqued everything, down to the crank dampener. I happened to look at a diagram and realized that there is no cam thrust spring or button in my engine. It didn't trip any alarm when I was putting it back together because it wasn't there when I took it apart. It is on its way from AZ. Now I have to take the cover back off, clean all the sealant off just to put on a small, but unfortunately necessary piece. Other than that I got a lot done. The valve covers and oil pan are ready to be put on. I want to recheck the head torque one more time, one of the bolts was unhappy when I was tightening it down. |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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But wait, there's more...I have now read not all 225s had thrust buttons and springs. Has anyone else built one of these without one. Apparently the fuel pump arm and cam gear can keep it all in check. Opinions, experience??
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 646 |
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Yes lots of debate about whether it's needed or was even missing from factory on some 225s.
earlycj5.net if you want to read all about it. I have one in mine.
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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You have no idea how much of a relief that is. I have one on the way, but I now have the option of putting it in or not. I was not happy about having closed this whole thing up without it and then realizing that it might be an issue. My engine definately never had one. Given the condition of the original timing gears no one had ever opened this engine up before me. In the couple of quick other articles I have read, all the other people who found there engines without them are in the same year as mine, late 67 early 68.
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4184 |
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The camshaft thrust button and spring are definitely a factory part on these engines.
Can one omit the thrust control ? Your guess is as good as mine. I certainly don't think it's a good idea. Acceleration/deceleration cycles will cause some amount of end floating for the camshaft. Especially on an engine that has no run in time between the lifters and the lobes. I have seen Dauntless cam buttons that had very obvious wear in them. That suggests that the button was performing a vital service.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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I have installed the newly arrived cam button. Upon inspecting the timing cover, this engine definitely never had one, it was completely unmarred on the machined surface. I was also able to close up the oil pan. I need to order an HEI distributor, high flow water pump, starter (old one fell apart) and headers and it will be complete. I plan to paint it in the next few weeks before it starts to get cold. Once it it painted I plan to move it from the assembly stand to a floor stand where I can start to assemble it with the rest of the heathen drivetrain. I need to come up with some creative solutions for starting. I want to keep a floor starter. I think I will find an old button and rig it to fire the solenoid.
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52 M38
Member Joined: 26 Nov. 2012 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 1286 |
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I would like to know what other are using for an air filter set up? I am fairly confident the original will not fit under the hood. I was thinking I would use a carb cap and run a snorkel, but I am interested in any viable options.
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flatfender47
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Jan. 2006 Location: Riverside CA Status: Offline Points: 646 |
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