oil filter

Photos of Marks "Frantz" toilet paper adapter (click 'em to enlarge):

        

        

        

        

    

Sean


Edited by sean - 12 Feb. 2007 at 4:21pm

So that entire TP canister slides into the stock filter can? I see a hole in the lid of the TP can but no other hole. Looks pretty neat but I don't get how it works. You've said you have to "change the roll more often", how often? This seems silly but do you use just single ply like for a septic system? People back then were much more inventive even on the engineering and manufacturing end. When were these marketed? Were there  different sizes for other applications used other than for the Willys? It seems somewhat Rube Goldbergish when standard filters are so readily available.

I'll have to read this a little closer. I don't understand the difference between full-flow and bypass systems. I had the unit turned around. The cap end with the hole goes down? Is the groove on the open end lip for a o-ring then? then the regular canister lid seals around that o-ring and the flat seal then seals the canister? The o-ring then just seals on the stock lid? Jeesh I'm dense.

Edited by westforkboyd - 10 Feb. 2007 at 1:40pm

Allen:

I think a few diagrams will work better than trying to describe it verbally.  I'll draw something up in a bit.

The cap end with the hole goes down?

Yep.

Is the groove on the open end lip for a o-ring then?

No, that's for the wire retainer ring, which simply holds the TP, & filter screens, in place w/in the TP canister.

The top of the TP canister is open, for oil to flow into & through it.  The only seal is the standard caps flat rubber ring.

Sean


Edited by sean - 10 Feb. 2007 at 1:37pm

Crude diagrams, but they'll do better than words.

Full-flow system:

• Filter is in-line with the pump feed
• ALL the oil passes through the filter ALL of the time

    

By-pass system (AKA "partial-flow"):

• Filter feed can tap into any pressurized point of the gallery
• Some oil diverts to filter, while most of it goes to the engine

    

There are pros & cons to both systems, but some ramifications are easy to see.

Full-flow:

• All oil is filtered before going to the engine
• By it's nature, it has to be low restriction, to allow sufficient flow to the engine.
• Low restriction means big filter pores, typically around 40 microns.  There are newer, expensive, synthetic filters that claim 20 micron capability.
  

By-pass:

• Only some of the oil is filtered. Somewhere around 5% gets filtered, the rest goes to the engine unfiltered.
• Restriction is not an issue.
• GOOD filters have typical pore sizes of less than 1 micron.

Argument is given that a bypass filter is bad because it doesn't filter all of the oil.  That's wrong.  It DOES filter all of the oil, just not as quickly as a full flow:

• Full-flow filters ALL the oil ALL the time.
• By-pass filters SOME of the oil ALL of the time, and ALL of the oil SOME of the time.

A typical american V-8 circulates about 10 quarts per minute at speed, so the average 5 quart system is full-flow filtered w/in 30 seconds.  A 5% by pass system will take 10 minutes to do the same job, but eventually ALL the oil does get filtered.

OTOH, a full-flow filter is a compromise.  It leaves LOTS of big particles circulating.  A by-pass filter is better by orders of magnitude.

Contrary to popular belief, the main reason for suggested oil change intervals is not because the oil is worn out, but because it's dirty!  A by-pass will keep it cleaner, longer, and put less wear & tear on engine parts.

But, if you happen to get big hunks of crud into the oil pan somehow, and it gets sucked up into the pickup float, the odds are it will get to the bearings first, before being filtered.  A good reason to keep the floating pickup.

The best filtration will have both types.  Unfortunately, it would take some doing to tap a full-flow into an L-134 engine.

Some diagrams of the L-134 bypass canister workings.

First an empty canister (no filter element):

• Canister is sealed & pressurized.
• Oil flows in from high on the outer perimeter, and fills the canister
• Then exits via the restrictor hole, down the center stand pipe.

    

With the typical disposable element:

• Element is typically pleated paper (orange shading)
• Oil flows through the sides of the element to the middle
• Then out the restrictor hole.

    

With the Franz TP adapter.  The Franz TP canister is shaded green.

• Oil flows into the large open end of the TP canister.
• Then up lengthwise through the TP, out the other end.
• Then through the large diameter center pipe of the TP adapter, to the restrictor hole.

    

Both filters need seals around the stand-pipe.  Both are are held down by the spring under the lid.

A pleated paper element is a "surface" filter.  The TP roll (or other solid by-pass element) is a "depth" filter.

Sean




Edited by sean - 04 July 2011 at 1:50pm

Sean

Del:

you are correct in thinking that you might have the oil flowing the wrong way thru the TP

I defer to your description.  Looks like Marks filter was installed that way too, considering the corroded areas, which I didn't pay attention to before.

However, I don't think the Frantz canister cares which way it's oriented..  As long as there's pressure, oil will flow through it.  Just a matter of how it was designed to mechanically fit the outer canister.

I agree w/Jeff though.  Despite being "clean", all oils will eventually degrade.  They'll break down from heat, get diluted by blow-by, pick up contaminants from the air (moisture, acids, etc.), and carry all the normal wear metal particles.

A good filter will greatly extend the change interval, but it still needs to be done occasionally.

Along with using by-pass filters, rather than change oil at regular intervals, I have it analyzed at regular intervals.  When the analysis shows elevated levels of anything important, I change oil & filters.  I typically get 30-35K between changes.

Sean

Yea Sean, throw this dog a bone.  How does one goe about "analyzing" your oil??  I know in my chemistry lab "aka.  the corn crib" the extent of my analysis is getting a few drops of the "used" oil between  my fingers and rubbing them together, after the oil starts to break down you can actually feel the difference between new and used oil even though the oil still has a clean appearance to the eye.

Whooops Jeff!