Oil pan and timing cover assembly |
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Jeff_Davis
Member Joined: 15 July 2012 Location: Argentina & FL Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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Posted: 23 Sep. 2015 at 7:29pm |
I have searched the treads and manuals, but I can't find a definitive way to assemble these two pieces so they seal up proper....
Timing cover assembled "loose" and then tighten the Oil Pan? Then tighten the cover? Any tips or steps appreciated... Jeff
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Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina 1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida) 1954 M-100 USMC Trailer 1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block |
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Jeff_Davis
Member Joined: 15 July 2012 Location: Argentina & FL Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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Also, I have found 10-14 foot lbs. on the pan, but no torque spec on the timing cover bolts>>Thanks Jeff
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Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina 1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida) 1954 M-100 USMC Trailer 1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block |
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WillyBill
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2014 Location: Northwest TN Status: Offline Points: 211 |
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Slide the crankshaft pulley on the crankshaft with the loose timing gear cover in place. The pulley and the seal in the TG cover will locate the cover. Secure cover in this location. Then attach oil pan. Might want to get 6 bolts slightly longer than the rest of the oil pan bolts since you also have to go through the pulley shield and spacer washers.
Manual says 9-14 lb-ft on the oil pan bolts. It doesn't mention torque spec for TG cover bolts. Older fellow told me to assemble oil pan and TG cover in position using gasket and sealant and only snug bolts until sealant sets so as to not force the sealant out, and then go back later and torque bolts to spec after sealant sets. This rebuild guide says about 20 lb-ft on the TG cover. http://flatfenderfever.com/id8.html Edited by WillyBill - 25 Sep. 2015 at 2:06am |
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1947 CJ2A #146428
1947 CJ2A #103567 |
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WillyBill
Member Joined: 02 Feb. 2014 Location: Northwest TN Status: Offline Points: 211 |
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I used 5/16-18 x 5/8 bolts except where the pulley shield goes. I used 3/4 inch bolts there.
I know it is not spec on a '47, but I used a single groove cast pulley instead of a double groove stamped pulley. I had a difficult time getting the original stamped pulley off and decided it would be easier to use a puller on the cast pulley. |
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1947 CJ2A #146428
1947 CJ2A #103567 |
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Jeff_Davis
Member Joined: 15 July 2012 Location: Argentina & FL Status: Offline Points: 551 |
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Thanks for the advice WillyBill. The trick with lining up the front cover using the pulley seal was worth all the typing!
Cover and oil pan all snugged up! Jeff
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Jeff
1947 Willys CJ2A Las Flores, Provinca de Buenos Aires, Argentina 1951 Willys M38 Flightline jeep (Southeast Florida) 1954 M-100 USMC Trailer 1954 FORD F-100 parts chaser, 292 V8 Y-Block |
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stude-a-willys
Member Joined: 02 Sep. 2014 Location: Conifer, CO, US Status: Offline Points: 133 |
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Last week, I had my timing cover and pan off on a similar engine.
I had a heck of a time removing a recently attached timing cover with ultra copper RTV and a new paper gasket on nice clean steel. I thought I would see what happens with just RTV sealant and no paper/cork gaskets. I cleaned everything as best I could with a razor blade and brake-cleaner to try to remove all of the oil. I RTV'd the timing cover, bolted it on with the crank pulley in place to help center it in the felt seal. Then I RTV'd the entire oil pan lip and bolted it home in < 15 minutes. I waited 12 hours to add oil. I'll be darned. The timing cover and oil pan do not leak despite replacing the paper/cork seals with gooey modern technology alone. If you are out of time and out of gaskets, give it shot next time. it just might work as well as or better than stock paper/cork. |
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