It was a barn find in Maple Ridge |
Post Reply | Page <1 2122232425> |
Author | |
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I am finding you never really finish a project like this, there is always something to do or add like a mirror or a rear seat, thanks to Jon Denny for making a stop at Willys acres.
Now for some more upholstery work for the rear seat . Now after seeing how good Jon's bows and top are turning out its inspiring me to make the remaining bows for the rear of the top. Michele likes the cup holder , thanks Jon |
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
92889
Member Joined: 24 Dec. 2015 Location: Tsawwassen, BC Status: Offline Points: 973 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Happy to help.
Glad the cup holder went to a good home.
|
|
15 Field RCA
|
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ok so now its time to address my front input shaft leak and second gear jumping out on deceleration,
I used the original felt seal on the input shaft and over the years i have done a couple of small fixes for the second gear jumping out like checking the shift rail detent and ball, replacing the roll pin holding the shift fork in place and trimming the second gear shift rail stop, now this has worked well for the time and the felt seal worked for the first year but it was short lived, I was contemplating calling the jeep puddles. Now for the jumping out of second gear it has gotten to the point that down shifting into second gear for a stop sign it would jump out, So just to say this is not going to be a full rebuild this is going to be a reseal and second gear repair not being cheap but more along the lines that it can be repaired with minimal parts considering the transmission looked so good to start with, First off remove the transmission and my thought is separate the transfer case then remove the transmission and leave the bellhousing in place, NOPE the trans did not want to separate from the bellhousing so out it comes all together. Now i have it on the table i can separate the bellhousing and dive into the repairs. I have picket up some great tips and tricks watching Ricks U tube vids replacing the front bearing with a sealed bearing, tap and plug the oil return drain and setting the main shaft end play . I also disassembled and inspected the all the parts and bearings to see what needs replacement or repair. During inspection I could see second gear needs to be replaced , the teeth were nearly half worn through and the synchro blocker was worn out completely and the rear main shaft bearing had some brinelling starting with end play with this the main shaft was able to drift backward causing the second gear problems . So I started with replacing the input shaft bearing and washer and replacing and checking the third gear synchro blocker , next is replace second gear and its blocker ring and checking it for proper clearance and fit. I also checked and cleaned the counter shaft bearings , spacers and thrust washers and using one of Ricks tips I used some small elastics to hold all the needle bearings in place, this worked very well, and now for some assembly and recheck my work . |
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
One of the things I did earlier was prep a case by cleaning/ painting and drill and tap the oil return hole for the front bearing so the hole is now 1/8" pipe.
After the assembly I then checked the synchro engagement by installing the shifter and shifting into second gear and then carefully removing the shifter and inspecting the location of the synchro being sure its fully engaged. One of the things I found on my inspection was the ball fulcrum for the clutch fork was loose in the hole so I changed it out with a spare one I had on hand , now on to some clean up from all the oil that has been leaking and then start to put it back together.
|
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
A list of parts has been minimal so far with a couple of bearings some good used synchro blockers and synchro a input shaft cover and gaskets.
|
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
LuzonRed47
Member Joined: 11 Apr. 2007 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 842 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
Man oh man, you got a ton of work done in that 1-day photo sequence. Almost pit-stop speed. Hope she stays in gear now....
|
|
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Just puttered at it in the afternoon and next thing it was out on the bench and I was stripping it down, |
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Just a little update on the T 90 repair and all is good, I spent the afternoon installing all the parts back into the jeep with some new gaskets and sealant , I think it took longer to fill the trans and transfer case with oil than it did to put it all back together.
Next day was to test drive and do a little work with it. So after a good test drive it worked great , it shifts with no grinding and does not pop out of second gear at all and no more leaks. |
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Light work today on the jeep with some maintenance, check oil and coolant belts hoses lights and steering now on to a minor repair to the horn, after the last parade it finally gave up , the points were not great to start with so today it was time to repair it.
After disassembly I found the points were burnt out completely, I then was able to swap out the points with a good used set I had on hand and with some minor adjustment and cleaning I have a horn once again Edited by shadow - 03 July 2022 at 7:28pm |
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
LuzonRed47
Member Joined: 11 Apr. 2007 Location: Plymouth, MI Status: Offline Points: 842 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
General question: are points for those horns available from the Willys parts network? I've got one of those horns but haven't yet tested it.
Edited by LuzonRed47 - 05 July 2022 at 10:22am |
|
CJ2A #140275 "Ziggie" (purchased new by my dad in 1947)
ACM #124334 CJ3A windshield, Warn Overdrive 1953 Strick M100 trailer Serial #18253 |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
No sorry I don't think they are available, I just happen to have some good used parts around and made them work.
I was going to use some points from another distributor and solder in place but this worked, if the horn gives up again then I will cut and fit some points out of a distributor.
|
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
You could try a points file and clean them up and see if that helps.
|
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Nov 11 and joined up with some friends for a drive and a moment of silence , yes I was odd man with a CJ and not a MB but still good to be out.
Then coffee at Tims and a chance to catch up with people I haven't seen in a while
Edited by shadow - 26 Nov. 2022 at 4:14am |
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
rocnroll
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 20 July 2005 Location: Tuscumbia, AL Status: Offline Points: 13584 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
That little rig has a neat look to it.
|
|
'47 CJ2A PU
'48 CJ2A Lefty "Common sense is not that common" |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I wasn't able to correct the orientation of the pictures , sorry.
|
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
bight
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 20 Aug. 2020 Location: mid coast maine Status: Offline Points: 1679 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
CJ-2A 72586 tan (stock)
CJ-2A 197624 green (resto-mod) the wife abides (def: to bear patiently; TOLERATE) |
|
shadow
Member Joined: 08 Nov. 2015 Location: Maple Ridge B.C Status: Offline Points: 626 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Spotted a intermittent fuel leak under the jeep a couple of days ago and also was getting a wif of fuel from time to time so it was time to look into what the problem was and with the help from the people on the page the question of a spacer between the pump and block was answered ,
I priced out locally a replacement pump but the local suppliers could only find the metal top type unknown manufacturer and they would need to order it in and not a reasonable price, it would be much cheaper to order out of the states even after the exchange . So being the tinkering type I found a spare fuel pump and tore it down cleaned it up to understand the basic workings on what affects pressure, flow and volume. I also tested the fuel pump that was leaking on the jeep by making a in line pressure tester and comparing notes with the information here on the page. I did find the leaking pump was hi at 5.5 to 6 psi , this would explain some over fueling from time to time and the smell of fuel. I changed out the fuel pump with the spare one with no spacer that I cleaned up and re tested only to find the pressure was low at 1.5 to 2 psi due to a leaking inlet check valve. I removed the top half of the fuel pump and changed it for a good one way inlet check valve and again tested the fuel pressure and now I have a solid 5 psi. I did road test to confirm pressure at idle and at speed and under load with no pressure drop at all and no fuel leaks I also checked for pressure leak down when the engine was not running and no pressure loss over 15 min. so this confirmed the check valves in the pump and the float valve in the carb are not leaking, win win. |
|
lets go for a rip eh bud
Andy |
|
John M.
Member Joined: 13 May 2020 Location: Salem, Mo Status: Offline Points: 40 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thank you for your ton of excellent pictures on your extensive rebuild on the CJ2A.
My question is would it be possible to send me one picture of each seat where the seat hits the rear inner fender. Or how ever the outboard rear of the seat is stabilized. I can see the inboard (L) brackets that stabilized the inboard but nothing about the outboard. Iade my seat frames about a year ago and I must of pitched the old frames. May not made any difference as the sead back was rotted off and gone. Cheers, |
|
Post Reply | Page <1 2122232425> |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |