46 CJ2A #69750 |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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So, answering the age old question of what to do when you wake up at 5:15a on fathers day, and don't want to wake up the whole house...
The obvious answer is take the factory floor mats out of your wife's 35k JKU and cut them up for your Willys (it's all good, lol... the mats came out day one in favor of Weathertech liners. Hell, my 10 year old Taco factory mats came out like day five and they're up in the attic, all branny new...somewhere) |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3183 |
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Re: Happy feet! Yes, it was high time those dogs were replaced...no sense in putting new carpet in the rig without changing those clown feet out.
I'm still watching your project closely because of the nearby serial numbers on our 2A's. Keep up the good work. |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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They were awful, lol... one round, one square, beat to snot with S shaped stems... and "originally" (when I came in) had CJ5 style rubber pads on them. All I will say is they worked... and were awful
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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markcl52
Member Joined: 04 Dec. 2015 Location: Mass Status: Offline Points: 286 |
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I finally got around to measuring my springs and my axle to bumpstop measurement is only 1.5", and this is with a 10 leaf front. As you can see in the picture, there are some homemade brackets that likely held something heavy in the past and caused the springs to lose their spring. Looks like I need to go down the same path you did with either new or used but better springs.
Edited by markcl52 - 21 July 2016 at 8:48pm |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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Your bump stops have metal spacers between them and the frame. I have a jeep with the same metal spacers under the rear bump stops.
Normally the bumper is bolted directly to the frame rail. |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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So this has been in the background as far as "my jeep project", but has crossed the line over to now being on point... picked up a PE95K late '52 military genset out of a scrapyard, where it had been for I'm told 2 years... 800+ hours showing on the meter.
Anyway, I started to get into the RMC engine, and early indications are promising. Got the engine out and on a stand, successfully loosened all the headbolts without that sick feeling you get when one snaps, lol. Degreased yesterday, and started to poke around a bit. Cautiously optimistic, as both the oil pan gasket and head gasket have ODG on them... Found the floating oil sump pick up i was hoping to- Also found the anticipated sludge in the pan (boo) but the internals look pretty clean. The oil I drained out was BLACK, but the viscosity was decent and there weren't any chunks or clumps, or bits lol Given that the gaskets top and bottom have ODG, I'm thinking no one has been here since the early 50's. If that continues to hold true as I go along I think this will be a score... I can still see cross hatching on the cylinder walls Full confession: a brief ten minute panic After I removed the oil pan, I put a wrench on the pulley nut to turn it over, and was met with resistance.... it would only go 340 degrees, but there is a hard stop from either direction. Heart sinkage. I'm almost positive i put this thing through a full revolution before embarking on this journey (gulp)...I think I did, lol...I'm sure I did... only thing I've done is remove the dizzy...that wont do anything, right?! calm down... think stupid, think. Valve...I have a bad valve... must be everytime that cam lobe comes around to a stuck valve.... . . . . . . . OR, some idiot didn't run the nut fully up on one of the flywheel studs, and it's hitting an arm on the engine stand |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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The eagle has landed... and the eagle is happy ...a work in progress-
. . RMC105103, no "A", no "B", no "AB", etc for bearings or bores . . No ".020", ".030", etc... . . . ..No discernable ring ridge, a fingernail goes across without a catch, and a QUICK bore measurement with a telescoping gauge measured with a digital caliper returns repeatable measurements in the 3.125"-3.127" range... So now the question... I recall reading that it was sometimes practice to select engines with non standard (slightly bigger bore, slightly oversize bearings..."A", "B", "AB", etc) specs for utility work, but I'm not finding that... no stamp after the ESN, the bores seem to measure original spec (I'll go in depth on them top to bottom and for out of round before I put this aside)... but I'm finding "F" and "G" stamps on the deck at each bore. I recall reading about this at some point in the past but I'll be damned if I remember what it means or where I saw it... Front to back, F G F G... . . . . Lol... anyone wanna save me hours of retracing my steps? |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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ugh... I knew things were going too well, lol... got the manifolds off without snapping a stud (beyond the one that was already snapped)...pulled the valve cover off. Funny how that which should be obvious sometimes takes a while to register
For as many times I've spun the crank by wrench looking for this or that, once I popped the valve cover off it took about four seconds to see that one of the valves that was open was well above the adjustable lifter below... my stuck valve scenario has come to fruition I have no way of knowing if the stuck exhaust valve was why the genset found its way to the scrap yard, or if it stuck while sitting two years basically in the elements while open. The stem of the valve is visibly rusted, not heavily, but not hazed either. No matter, definitelynot insurmountable. Short term, soaking in atf/acetone. gonna give it a couple days soak, clean it up and try and coerce it free, and reassess. If this has to go to a shop to get squared away I'm considering seats and guides. Too soon. Tonight we soak. |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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Exhale... soaked the valve overnight and all day. Got home tonight and tried to turn it by hand...no dice. got a block of wood and a small ball peen hammer with the intent of tapping on it, just to see. Put the block on the valve and effectively breathed on it with the hammer..."SNAP" as the valve spring pulled it closed. I turned the whole thing over once and put the valve back open, then refilled the port with atf/acetone. Another nights soak. I'm going to take this a little at a time, but I may end up removing the valves to polish the seats and stems...
In other news, the balance of the head studs gave up to the double nut method with no casualties... Sorting out some bell housing fitment issues now |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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Spent a while sunday pulling valves to clean things up... some light rust here and there, and a TON of carbon and what looks like tar, almost thick paint like, on the valves above the guides. Guessing low RPM's, crappy or old gas and a lack of carb adjustment...and probably short duration runs
. . Put all the valves across a bronze/brass wire wheel and was quite happy with the results (will have to get a pic)... the seating surfaces look awesome, the stems decent. Going to roll them for straight and go with them. Currently have the block sideways on the stand soaking the manifold studs. There was one broken when I got it, that's been drilled for an easy out attempt but it's soaking with the rest just now. Of the valve seats in the block, 6 of 8 will be fine, one looks like it'll clean up, one gives me a little pause. Currently considering a quick re-lapping after I bronze wire them...one step at a time. . I also have two valve spring roto cap style bases (that accept the keepers) that don't turn freely...currently soaking to see if they'll free up- |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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Typical exhaust valve...
. . typical intake . . So Eaton... the rotocaps have been eluding me, but I think are later style F-head exhaust. Have not been able to find any reference that puts these on the intake valves L134 or F134, but they are... . . the stems on all 8 are the same . . There are 3 red springs and 5 black, no rhyme or reason to the red ones (2 in, 1 ex)...they do however measure slightly shorter than the black on a consistent basis... like 2.43" vs. 2.49. . . The oddity of this arrangement in general makes me consider someone else may have been in here (the broken manifold stud in the back of my head), but I'm just going to push forward-
Edited by mbullism - 31 Aug. 2016 at 12:36pm |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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Ok, so I snapped an EZout off in the broken manifold stud... deep breath
Two approaches come to mind in the aftermath... weld a nut to it, or try and grind it out with the dremel. Neither really appealing at 9pm. Step back, regroup. Forward to 3am. Awake for other reasons, but pondering the EZout... what if...(?) That head stud in that corner goes in to the same water jacket. What if I can get a screwdriver, with a bent tip thru the stud hole, protect the threads with a strip of wood and push it out from the backside? Measure for "depth" . . Insert, feel for effect and gently apply a shi(t) ton of leverage, lol, and DO NOT put you face directly in the line of fire . . VIOLA! . . No worse off than I was when I was this worse off... Going to drill just a bit more and try the next size up... this attempt was after a week of soaking in 50/50 atf/acetone, and applied heat during the attempt... going to see if additional drilling will relieve it somewhat Edited by mbullism - 04 Sep. 2016 at 4:51am |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3183 |
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Try the larger easy-out (that is a misnomer if there ever was one!) but when you apply pressure with the wrench, also repeatedly and gently tap on the end of the easy-out with a small hammer. This has almost always helped me in the past. Patience is virtue and one does need to allow the atf-acetone plenty of time to do its magic. The hammer trick is one I learned from my dad 45 years ago when I broke exactly the same manifold stud flush with the block. Good luck and I hope my suggestion helps.
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4759 |
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Tried the larger EZout, and have been using the tap on it while turning trick, though I'm not certain my Dad ever knew your Dad... I had that one passed on to me 35 years ago, lol. Miss my Dad. With all he taught me I often wonder how much he took with him... since I have two daughters with absolutely zero interest in things mechanical (beyond where the gas goes in, lol) I also ponder how much stops with me. Amazing we move forward as a species.
The broken stud was having none of the EZout bullship... since my pilot hole was so well centered I went for broke, drilled about 1/8" deep with a 5/16" bit to tap for 3/8"x16, peeled the thread spiral with a hardened pick and used that to index a tap to clean the remaining threads... .
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3183 |
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...and there you go! More than one way to skin a cat. Now you can move on to other problems.
Glad you solved the stud problem...still watching your project with interest as my 2A is fairly close to mine (#64462). |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3183 |
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should have read: Glad you solved the stud problem...still watching your project with interest as YOUR 2A is fairly close to mine (#64462).This is frustrating not even being able to edit my own posts without getting a server error message. Any suggestions?
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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