Master Cylinder Rebuild (+)

Hello all,

I'm attempting to rebuild my MC

I've got the rebuild kit and I removed the fitting and bolt on the front, retaining kit and stop plate on the rear.

My next question is, how do I remove the piston and everything beyond?

Here is the front of the MC, it looks like the piston head is all the way against the front, not sure if it's supposed to be like this.  I can move it with a thin dowel, but it's difficult.



Here is the view from the back of the MC



It's a bit difficult to see in the photo but the wall sides are rusty.  Do I need to hone this?


(+)  Separate issue

I'm attempting to remove my old fuel pump and it's proving infuriating.  I don't have a pic of the old on one the block, but here's the new one for reference.



Where the black arrow is, on the old one, that metal dowel or tab or whatever is sticking out (not flush like the picture) so I can't get a socket wrench onto the bolt.  The leading bolt (one toward front of vehicle) holding the fuel pump on actually looks like a stud to me.  I'm close to cutting the whole old fuel pump off haha I'm that frustrated.  This is the only thing holding me up from running!  Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks.

2X what Jim said !!

Are you using a 1/4 drive socket set to get the bolt out ? 1/2 drive is too large to get the inner bolt you are trying to remove even if the pin is not sticking out.

It's a bugger with the fuel pump bolt. 2 things: I have personally sacrificed a socket by grinding it down so it is much thinner to fit past your obstruction or I had to get at it with a wrench from underneath to engage the sides of the bolt. You may need to sacrifice a wrench by grinding it to fit. It is then a matter of multiple little turns to go from one flat surface to the next.
Don't break it off cuz if it's an original it can be rebuilt and you don't want the bastard to win!

Your MC still appears to be pitted. It may work just fine, or , it may start leaving you little presents on the floor of your garage...
I have had good luck re-sleeving the MC with brass. Brass never rusts, and they seem to last forever after this is done. Very good for vehicles that sit around a lot between use...
I use an outfit up in NY, called Apple Hydraulics. Costs about $100 for a Jeep MC. It will be the last time you will need to mess with the MC! You can search Google to find them. Good people.
Jeff

Can you get to the other side of the pin and use a punch to push it out?

Thanks to all.

WeeWilly wrote:   The insulation on the break lines are 1/4" old style wire loom. I bought the loom at Snyder's Antique Auto Parts.

Yes, after the sleeve was pressed in and bored I drilled the 2 holes. I did mine a few years ago and have had no problems at all with my brakes. Also used Dot 5 brake fluid. If I were to do another one I would use brass instead of stainless, lot easier to work with. I also coated the sleeve with Red loc tite before installing it.

    Jim