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clutch linkage |
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Mike S 
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Joined: 20 May 2006 Location: West Coast Status: Offline Points: 2318 |
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 Topic: clutch linkagePosted: 01 Mar. 2017 at 9:14pm |
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I had a little difficulty installing my clutch... the clutch fingers were out of adjustment (out of spec for clearance and uniformity of clearance). These must be in spec or one of more fingers can cause interference. .
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'47 CJ2A -- #114542
Warn FF D41 rear Lock-Right locker 11" drum brakes Dual master cylinder T90C Transmission 16 X 6 Jeep truck wheels Cooper STT Pro tires |
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athawk11
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Posted: 01 Mar. 2017 at 8:34pm |
 I'm glad you found the culprit. As mentioned, I felt your pain.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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TexasWillys12
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Joined: 02 Sep. 2016 Location: Granbury, Tx Status: Offline Points: 54 |
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Posted: 28 Feb. 2017 at 4:36am |
 Installed the transmisson without the clutch and lo and behold the main shaft continued to spin so it was the stupid pilot bushing. reamed it out and clutch disengages now!! what a pain
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athawk11
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 5:20pm |
That's a lot of work, but not a bad thought. You could also double check that the clutch disc is 'true'. I think others have found new clutch discs that are warped. Maybe Lee(MN)? I had mine apart so many times, I lost track. I tried all of it. Linkage adjustments, replaced the pressure plate, fork, pivot fulcrum, throw out bearing...nothing worked until I reamed the bushing. It fit perfectly on the input shaft...until I seated it in the flywheel. This compressed the inside diameter. I didn't know it would do that. I finally pulled the back off the engine, manually stuck the transmission into the bushing. It didn't just 'slide' in. I had to wiggle/fight it in. I reamed it a very small amount, put it all back together, and haven't had a problem since.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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TexasWillys12
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Joined: 02 Sep. 2016 Location: Granbury, Tx Status: Offline Points: 54 |
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 4:48pm |
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I thought about installing the transmisson without the clutch and see if the input shaft doesn't turn?
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athawk11
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 3:54pm |
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The input shaft…and clutch disc must completely stop
spinning when the clutch pedal is pushed. If the bushing is tight, they won’t
stop spinning. If the pressure plate isn’t
pulling far enough away from the clutch disc, it will continue to spin.
A warped clutch disc? A clutch disc that’s too thick? A clutch disc installed backwards? (not sure this is even possible) Again, if that bushing is tight on the input shaft, it has all the above symptoms. Are you absolutely certain it’s not grabbing the input shaft? |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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TexasWillys12
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 2:16pm |
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I feel the linkage has no bearing on my issue. If it is pulling the fork all the way back and the fork cannot move any further since it is stopped by the bellhousing, it cannot be the leakage. Also my fork is behind the ears so I think my issue is the clutch
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tamnalan
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 1:04pm |
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I had problems like this too. There seems to be a fair amount of variation in some of the replacement parts dimensions. There's some trial and error jiggling involved to get everything to work together. My control rod was supposed to be 9 inches center to center, but it ended up at about 8 3/8" to work properly.
I suggest avoiding adjusting the clutch itself until all else fails.
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Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD" 1943 MB - "Lt Bob" 1950 cj3a M-100 x2 teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740 |
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Adrian
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 8:46am |
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The fork pushes on the ears, not the bearing......that's why the cable end of the fork has hit the inside of the bell housing.
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1946 CJ-2A Column Change 14605
1973 Saab 96 |
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Roger F
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 7:06am |
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I just went through this ordeal. This seems to be a really common problem. After reading several threads regarding the cable and control rod lengths, I ordered the recommended parts from Walks. Long story short, I had discrepancies between the recommended lengths, and what was on my '46 CJ2A
Recommended: Cable, 11.25" Control rod, 10.5" My Jeep Cable, 10.5 Control rod, 9.5" I wound up using the longer cable and shorter rod to make it work properly. In the process of installing and removing the cables, I somehow knocked the fork off the pivot ball and it moved ahead of the throw out bearing ears(see picture) I was experiencing the same issues you are. With help from others on this forum, I was able to reach in and re position the fork behind the bearing, and all is well. See my question from about 3 weeks back. Also, check out the diagram, and look at the position of the cross shaft ears, Mine aren't quite that pronounced, but it gives you an idea
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Roger F
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TexasWillys12
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2017 at 3:42am |
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Stupid clutch!!! Checked the pilot bushing and shaft rotates freely. Got to noticing the fork bottoms out on the bell housing when clutch is fully depressed so I got enough travel on the rod. Also noticed the fingers on the clutch seemed to have bottomed out also. Should the input shaft totally stop turning when the clutch pedal is depressed. We have no load on the transmisson. Its in neutral while testing. What's next? Adjust the clutch
   Edited by TexasWillys12 - 27 Feb. 2017 at 4:05am |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
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Posted: 24 Feb. 2017 at 1:13am |
Having spent a good deal of my time of my military career dealing with procurement issues I am sometimes a little careful with Mil-spec stuff because I keep thinking that the contracts for supplying things to the military most always went to the lowest bidder.  I don't have many problems with McMaster-Carr quality, but I do wish their callouts in the catalogs and online were a little more detailed. Brand names would help on many items. Most of the hardware used on the resto-mod for "Ol Red" was purchcased through the M-C online site and I have not experienced any problems with it.
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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tamnalan
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Joined: 08 Oct. 2013 Location: Port Orford, OR Status: Offline Points: 991 |
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Posted: 24 Feb. 2017 at 12:55am |
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That's a very good point about safety. Ok, I'm not a paid endorser for McMaster Carr... I do love that store though. They offer all sorts of grades of things like this. I don't remember seeing anything that claimed aviation compliance, but they do sell military grade (MIL-SPEC) stuff. It's spendy. The joints I got were typical of what a performance outlet like Summit might sell. They seemed well made and I spent extra for rubber seals for each joint. In this case, I don't think they would be less reliable over the long term than the factory design. Those steel-on-steel factory pivot points can wear quickly. Anyone interested, here's a writeup I did on it. http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=283292
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Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD" 1943 MB - "Lt Bob" 1950 cj3a M-100 x2 teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740 |
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Ol' Unreliable
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Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 5:43pm |
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A note about Heim joints in automotive applications: I once went to a place that sells the joints and they wouldn't sell me non-aircraft-rated Heim joints for my Jeep. Safety issue, they said. Twice the price for the aircraft-rated joint.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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athawk11
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Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 4:56am |
Yes. My new bushing required a small amount of reaming. Same simptoms you're having. |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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TexasWillys12
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Joined: 02 Sep. 2016 Location: Granbury, Tx Status: Offline Points: 54 |
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Posted: 23 Feb. 2017 at 4:29am |
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Got it all together but the clutch will not disengage. Tried shorter control rod it seems to max out on pushing the fingers in. The pilot bushing was extremely tight on the main shaft could it be the cause of the main shaft still and clutch plate still turning?
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Bill Norris
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Posted: 10 Feb. 2017 at 6:50pm |
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Your return spring looks like its mounted upside down/backwards. Look at Stan's spring.
Bill
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Holy Toledo! Jeep Calendars and the Dispatcher Jeep magazine
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tamnalan
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Posted: 10 Feb. 2017 at 5:36pm |
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You might consider changing to heim joints. McMaster Carr has 'em for cheap.
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Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD" 1943 MB - "Lt Bob" 1950 cj3a M-100 x2 teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740 |
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TexasWillys12 wrote: