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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 768 |
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Posted: 21 Oct. 2017 at 10:42pm |
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Help me out here gang. Got this CJ2 last year and got her running. Original WO carb and L134. When I first got it, had a problem with the carb float bowl. It would stick and the bowl would overflow and it would hemorrhage fuel from the top of the bowl and die.
Got that fixed by changing the curve of the tang on the float and polishing it. But today, it started doing it again. Pulled the upper bowl and got it working again, cleaned a bunch of sediment at the bottom of the bowl. But.... not sure it sounds right. Not sure if it is tuned right, or if the carb is gunked up etc. Drives ok for now, but..... Please listen and tell me what you think? |
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Although I'm not sure it's related to the carburetor issue, I had a similar muffled rumble sound when my manifold gasket failed.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Lee MN
Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4953 |
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You need to figure out where the sediment you find in the bowl is coming from and correct that as well, either crap in the tank or the fuel line is deteriorating, I had the same issue years back and replaced the tank and fuel line and have never had that problem since.
Lee |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 768 |
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It looked like rust. Much of it came up with a magnet dipped down into the float bowl. I suspect it very well could be the tank. now, I don't have a fuel filter in the line between the fuel pump and the carb. Perhaps installing a fuel filer would be in order?
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 768 |
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Thanks for the input Tim. I'm not sure there is much I can do about the manifold gasket without taking apart the whole manifold right? Seems like a big deal since getting the exhaust manifold off is almost guaranteed to result in at least a few broken manifold studs.
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3192 |
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If a manifold stud is going to break, it will always be the rear one next to the firewall...guaranteed every time. Ask me how I know.
A very hard place to extract a broken stud, but it can be done with a lot of patience and a few cuss words. |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Online Points: 4785 |
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If a manifold stud needs to be broken, lol, better to get on with it and get it behind ya... soak it, heat it, read poetry to it... it may surprise you and come right off, but you're not going to know until you get there. I got every stud, head/carb/manifolds to block, manifold to exhaust yada yada off a serious junkyard engine...the only broken stud was there when I picked it up... the exhaust all the way back ;) Just sayin... .02
Edited by mbullism - 22 Oct. 2017 at 1:23pm |
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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Lee MN
Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4953 |
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I had the "Exact" same problem, and had 2 inline filters of different filtering ability, the rust went through both. Until you get rid of the source, your problem will continue!. Lee |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 768 |
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WoW. It would seem to get rid of the "nuggets" of rust though, no? Perhaps only a fine powder? I think I need to put in an in line fuel filter since i don't even have one now. What happened on the story Lee? I assume you're talking fuel tank replacement, but what symptoms were you having? Suggestions? Which type, kind, brand of fuel filter should I get? I currently have a stainless steel (or other metal) fuel line from my fuel pump to the carb. I assume I can't cut and use that, maybe replace the entire run. Anyone have a step by step for that? thanks Edited by cal.bar - 22 Oct. 2017 at 6:02pm |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9652 |
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I had trouble with rust and other crap in the fuel pump, the screen in the glass-bowl pump was stopping most of it, but the real fine stuff was finding its way into the carb. I wondered how this could be happening, as I had nice new NAPA fuel filter on the inlet side of the pump. I cut the filter apart to see why it was not catching the stuff and plugging itself up. Found that where the filter element was glued to the plastic housing, it was only glued half way around, leaving a big gap on the other side. The fuel was bypassing the filter! More Ci-com crap, with a good ol' American name on it! BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 768 |
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What do you guys think of THIS filter i am looking at from KW. Not sure what element it uses to filter or if it has a cartridge to clean etc.
https://www.kaiserwillys.com/nos-inline-metal-canister-fuel-filter-kit-fits-41-71-jeep-willys thoughts? |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9652 |
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Typical of a K-W's description, tells you everything you could have surmised, and nothing you need to know. Sounds like whoever wrote the description wrote it in Chinese or Indian, and something got mixed up in the translation. They show it upside-down and you can't see the top to tell whether it is an AC, a Carter, or whatever else.
If it truly is a NOS, American-made filter from the 40's, 50's, or 60's, it should have a sintered bronze, ceramic, or pressed paper filter element inside. All are very good, and pleated paper replacements may be available. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Willy M
Member Joined: 18 July 2017 Location: Dyer, TN Status: Offline Points: 233 |
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I was wondering if replacement filter elements were available.
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9652 |
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The sintered bronze and the ceramic can be cleaned and re-used, I'm not sure about the pressed paper. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Lee MN
Member Joined: 13 Aug. 2008 Location: Harris, MN Status: Offline Points: 4953 |
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It was the fine powder that was getting through the filter I replaced the tank and metal fuel line, and installed a Wix in line filter before the fuel pump....... mine was really bad, the carb plugged up with the fine rust, float would constantly stick, not one bit of trouble since. Lee |
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LEE
44 GPW-The Perfected Willys 49 2A “If you wait, you only get older” 67 M715 American Made Rolling History |
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 768 |
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My issue seems to be rust accumulation in the float bowl that eventually makes the float or the needle stick and the bowl overflows and pump fuel everywhere and stalls out the jeep. Since I likely do have a rusty tank (who doesn't after a few years), and NO fuel filter, seems like the first step for me is to simply get a fuel filter in there and see how that works. Not hard to check the bowl every so often and see if rust dust is accumulating. |
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