Dauntless Drivetrain Change

 

This week I have been trying to finalize the crossmember/skid-plate.   After wasting time with several different designs,  I decided on not using the original crossmember,  and instead modifying a CJ-7 belly-pan.   I got that close to mocked up,   THEN decided the transfercase was hanging too low.

 

Back in May at Willys Reunion,  I was discussing the config with Jpet,  and he urged me to raise everything.   When I got back home,  I decided that was too much work.  It would require modifying the exhaust,  all the shifter levers,  the custom clutch linkage bracket, rewelding the rearend spring perches,  and even the fan shroud mentioned above..

 

Today,  I think am going to do all that,  otherwise I probably will regret it.   Hopefully all goes quickly.

 

This is photo of Wilson today,   almost exactly one month away from leaving for Rubicon.     Need some more work on crossmember/skid plate,   and waiting for different spacer for fan  (needs a longer one than I had for stock fan). . .   PLUS a bunch of other things.   Need to find some time!!!

 

 

I am sure you are right.       In the end,  with current plans,  it will be a whopping 1.25" higher than stock crossmember,   but that is stuffing a MUCH taller tranny up into tub.

 

Also,  will have a smoother "bellypan" for sliding across the rocks. 

I did not realize the event was at that high of altitude. 

Did you cut anything from front crossmember to let radiator set lower in grill?    I think mine would flow better if lowered,  but I did not want to cut away anything.     The center of fan points at radiator about 1/3 of the way from bottom of radiator,    ie without the shroud,  the bottom of fan would not even be pulling air thru radiator.

 

Another task out of way is cutting and re-welding the rear axle spring perches.   This was the 3rd time doing that.      Currently it is set to 3 deg below straight,  but I decided to set it a little low,  with the thought that I will replace current old springs some day.    Cutting and rewelding is a pain.  From this point forward I may start using angled shims.      Since any future changes should only be minor adjustments,  if any.

 

The new fan is mocked in . .   Raising the back of the motor/tranny/xfer  required some changes to shroud. (the fan mount dropped down some).   I will finish the fan upgrade tomorrow hopefully.

 

This setup is SO much quieter than before.   It is much more enjoyable driving around on the road with the Dana 300  (straight connection to rear axle) and 3.73 gears (low engine rpm)

 

OFF ROAD . .  remains to be tested,  but 69:1 is nice  . .   compared to previous low-low of 37:1

 

To back up a little on the "overheating" issue.   I was hoping to never see the temp gage above 180,  but maybe that is unrealistic.   I have run two bottles of "radiator flush" thru the engine.  The first one generated an unbelievable amount of "rust" when I backflushed (hooked garden hose to port on rear of intake,  and created "old faithful" out the top of radiator (where the cap attaches).    The second flush still had some rust,  but near as bad.   In both of these flushes,  I ran the solution in the engine approx. 30-40 minutes each (driving).     After the 2nd bottle,  I  ran and flushed 2 more times with only water,  to clean out all the solution.   The water was coming out clean.  So decided it was time to add the "water wetter"

 

In today's test,  92 degree temp,  putting around in the woods, climbing over fallen trees, getting stuck . . trying some inclines,  getting stuck,  then adding locker to get free etc. . .  almost all of this at idle or barely above.   The temps would get up to 195 or so.  I never could get it to hit 200,  which is slight improvement from before.  Not sure if this improvement is the flush, or the water wetter,  but have to admit,  I am disappointed I did not get "up to 20 degrees cooler" as advertised.  haha

 

How hot is "too hot"?   Maybe things are not so bad,  considering the stock thermostat for these engines is 195. 

 

In this testing,  it mainly heats up at idle,  under load,  moving very slowly.   If the rpm is brought up,  or start moving a little faster, the temps will drop.

 

On to the "adventure".   I drove Wilson to work today,  (the testing above was at lunchtime).    After finishing my heat tests I was heading back to the plant.   I was doing some high throttle "launches" in the dirt to see if the limited-slip would generate a fish-tail,  or simply spin one tire.   Happy to report, that it always spun both.    It was running great until I hit a bump and then it started running crappy, and would not idle.    It stalled out.     I found I could start it,  and drive back to the plant, if I kept it at higher rpms.

 

I parked it to finish day at work.   Towards the end of the day,  my wife sent message that it was raining at home.   WTH  the weather forecast was for 15% chance of rain when I left in the morning.   Checked weather map,  and it looked like the rain would be ending for short period,  then a huge thunder boomer was approaching.  I thought about trying to beat the storm,  but when I tried to leave,  Wilson was still running crappy.  No way I was driving home risking that it would konk-out totally,  have the storm overtake us.   Caught a ride home, in middle of storm,   and had to go back later with trailer, after the rain,  to rescue Wilson. 

 

In pulling Wilson on trailer,  and at home,  it was still running like crap.     Seemed to be flooding  . .   I pulled the top off carb,  and found a TINY piece of something in the float needle.   Amazing how something so small can disable a vehicle. 

 

Hope the rest of the week goes smoother.