Father son project cj2/3 |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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So.....its cold out and I need this paint to dry. Think she will notice? Also had to scrub the cushions and let them dry.
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Gil
Member Joined: 29 July 2016 Location: N.B.Canada. Status: Offline Points: 975 |
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Nice project Seth,it's nice to see your son helping,he's going to have fun in that jeep when done,you also.These seats are coming along nice.Keep up the good work and the pictures coming.P.S.Welcome aboard.
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1946 cj2a 59108
1998 Jeep Cherokee 2 doors 2016 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk |
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Flatfender Ben
Member Joined: 13 July 2014 Location: Nyssa OR Status: Offline Points: 2657 |
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The seats look great.
And yes she will probably notice. Keep up the great work and pics.
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Seats are done! Its hard to believe there is $12 worth of hardware! :)
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nofender
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 10 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 2035 |
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Seats looks great! That's coming up very soon on my build as well.
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46 CJ2a rockcrawler
46 CJ2a - 26819 46 Bantam T3c "4366" 47 Bantam T3C - 11800 68-ish CJ5 |
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Doodledad
Member Joined: 08 Mar. 2016 Location: Muncy Pa Status: Offline Points: 400 |
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nice work bro!
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46 2A 29938 (unrestored driver)
51 3A "Wilma" 55 3B Fountain 47 2A Yard Art 97 XJ “Lafaunduh” 00 TJ RockCrawler "Hooker" 13 Rubicon JKU "Alice" 48 C2A Eileen 00 TJ frame off resto “Stacy” |
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Cool Project.
2A seat frames don't fit quite right in a 3A. The back lower cross bar doesn't sit on the seat perch mounted on the wheel house. You will find that the seat pitches down and out while you're sitting in it. Consider this modification. I added new perches to my 3A wheel houses... |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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That would be easy enough to make... Im not totally sure what these seat frames came out of. How can I tell what frames I have... or tub for that matter. My tub doesnt have bow pockets so I assumed it was a 3a tub....but there are other parts on it that are 2a.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Those seat frames are (if not repro) definitely from a 2A. The front cross bar sits up above the side rails to make the bottom cushion lean back. For the tub, measure the length of the rear wheelhouses. A 2A has these at 33-1/2", a 3A is a couple inches shorter.
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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you are correct. I did some googling and measuring.... Seats are 2a, tub is 3a. I will fit them and make some tub modifications as needed before I prime the tub. AtHawk... I like those perches you made. Thanks for the tips. I hope you don't mind I will be copying your design. :)
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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No problem. Copy away. You would have figured it out on your own eventually. Because they are rarely modified, the wheel house is the easiest way to tell if your tub is a 2A or a 3A. I can tell by the angles on the front face, but even easier is the length of the top surface. A CJ2A are about 34" long. A CJ3A are about 32" long. Here is a nice write up showing many of the primary differences between a 2A and a 3A. Hopefully the link works. Edited by athawk11 - 24 Nov. 2017 at 3:06pm |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Doodledad
Member Joined: 08 Mar. 2016 Location: Muncy Pa Status: Offline Points: 400 |
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They are 2A. most all of my parts are from 2s and early.
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46 2A 29938 (unrestored driver)
51 3A "Wilma" 55 3B Fountain 47 2A Yard Art 97 XJ “Lafaunduh” 00 TJ RockCrawler "Hooker" 13 Rubicon JKU "Alice" 48 C2A Eileen 00 TJ frame off resto “Stacy” |
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leecarr
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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I'm using a mix of 2a and m38 parts,I'm basically taking the best of all the parts I have and building a jeep.
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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The chassis is pretty much under control now, so moving on to the tub. My least favorite part! I need to decide how I want to tackle this, and what direction I want to go. My goal is to enjoy driving this jeep. I want it to be solid and hold up for a long time. I am not worried about it looking perfect or be extra shiny and smooth. The tub definitely needs some work, but I need to decide if I want to cut out everything that is questionable and replace it with new metal.....or repair the worst of it and move on. I had an '62 IH scout that I just kept fixing things and cutting out panels. I dropped a ton of money in it and I never finished it. I got sick of working on it after 8 years or so. Then I sold it. I do not want that to happen with this project.
The worst part about this tub is that the PO replaced the entire floor and half of the firewall and never fitted or welded the seams. just smashed them together and put in a few sheet metal screws. They also welded the side panel on with 3/8" of unevenness in relation to the rear panel. The passenger side is flush so that is cool. :) The only thing they did weld was the rusted out junk toolbox that had the entire front cut out of it. They welded the crap out of it! and they did a horrible job! SO that needs to come out. Then I need to take an inventory on what all "Must" be done, and what "should" be done. So I will do that and post some more pictures... and you guys can let me know what you think. I have seen some very inspirational body work on here. so I know you guys will offer some good advice! Here is what it looks like at the moment. I tried to take pictures of the problem areas. (the only thing I have done to the tub so far is begin to straighten out the F-head carnage on the firewall) |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Well, Its been about an hour since I took the previous pictures.... I was able to remove the toolbox. Doing so exposed some patchwork. doesn't appear to be rusty, but i don't believe they did a very good job. Still trying to decide how much I want to tear into this tub.... I know once I start cutting It will get out of control! haha. So I am leaning more towards "fix the major issues, and seal it up good." The last picture in this post is another good example of the unwelded seams with a sheet metal screw holding things together.
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leecarr
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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I don't see anything unfixable, mainly it depends on what you have for money, tools, and ability.
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Very little project money, enough tools & ability to be dangerous! haha!
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
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As old as these rigs are, they will always require some work to keep them on the road (or offroad). The designs of the 40's were never meant to be maintenance-free. As long as you understand that, you are ahead of the game. Parts are available for these rigs, some better than others which is an advantage over the Scout. Some of those parts are real hard to find. It looks like you have a pretty fair start on a body. I have seen much worse on this forum, but with patience, some money and acquired or purchased skills there have been some amazing rescues of old Willys iron. Those places with sheet metal screws will obviously have to be taken care of. If it is just a driver that you don't want to restore to showroom, then patch it up so that the panels don't fall apart and get it mechanically ready and drive it. If you want a show car, then you will be at this for some time to make it right. My advice...fix it to drive reliably and then drive it like you stole it... |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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