Father son project cj2/3 |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Before I set the body on im trying to take care of any issues that will be easier to deal with now. I wanted to check my sector shaft to make sure I don't have one of the bad one and I was greeted with this lovely mess. This jeep is just full of surprises. I cant wait to pull the diff covers! Yuck!
So here is my other issue. I stuck at trying to figure out my front springs. It had the tall stiff lift on it so I installed a new set of crown "stock springs and I think the seem to far the other way. With them installed I have 3.5" from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame rail. (dont mind the steering damper stud. That will get cut off soon) So, then I removed 3 leaves from the lift springs and reinstalled them. With the modified lift springs it measures 5.5" from the axle tube to the frame rail. In the rear I have 8.5" with crown A-614 springs. They crown rear springs have way more arch to them than the front springs. SO I guess my questions is. Which one should I go with? I plan on running a max tire size of 32" and would like to have some flex. All these measurements were taken with the body off, so I know that will change things slightly once I start adding more weight to it. Edited by Millennium falcon - 13 Jan. 2018 at 10:48pm |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Grey would probably look decent. As long as it was a light enough color to give it some contrast.
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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A light grey with a black pinstripe?
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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I had some flexible PVC sheets laying around. I used it to make some body mount bushings. This stuff is flexible, has some squish to it, but is also really durable. I have used it for mud flaps, and some other stuff on my truck and around the house. It holds up extremely well. It is 1/8th thick. I made enough I can double them up if needed.
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7984 |
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I would assemble those with some Silglyde other wise I think they could be squeaky.
I use this on all my Polyurethane body mounts and various bushings. https://www.amazon.com/Napa-7651346-Silicone-Lubricating-Compound/dp/B0054DWS1W |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Made some progress..... My dad helped me set the tub on the frame. It looks really good from underneath. Now i'm getting ready to paint the rest. I filled the unneeded holes in the dash. I also welded shut the holes in the toolbox hinges that I made when I drilled the welds. (I wanted to be able to remove the toolbox lid. Then I re-drilled more uniform holes to mount it to the tub.
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leecarr
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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I did the same thing with the tool box door. How is it that you get done in a week what takes me a year? I'm guessing the extra years and pounds have something to do with it.
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Rick G
Member Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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Seth, I don't know how I missed this back on page 11 (probably just looking at pictures and not reading the fine print...lol). Anyway, here's my belated response. Yes, I'm running 1" wheel spacers because I have the giant GM disc brake calipers on all four corners and original KH 16x4.5" wheels. They only needed about 5/8" of spacer but 1" was the thinnest I could buy without custom fabricating or using the goofy looking universal 8-10 hole spacer. I ran late model wheels prior to the originals without any need for a spacer, but I like the original look much better, so I live with the spacers. Additional brake mods include a Wilwood dual reservoir master cylinder mounted on the frame in the original location. I mounted the two remote reservoirs on the firewall. All new brake lines. I originally installed residual pressure valves on front and rear, but since have removed them. They were unnecessary. Because I'm running 4 wheel disc, I don't need the proportioning valve for a disc/drum setup. Yes, I have a complete custom steering set-up. I have a Saginaw power steering box that I run in manual (no pump). I built the steering shaft from the firewall to the box with 3/4" DD shaft, heim joints, and u joints (one of which is a double u-joint). I'm not completely happy with the steering shaft setup, but it's functional and looks ok. I made the drag link and tie rod from 1" heavy wall pipe. I originally built the steering system with a Flaming River custom stainless steel tilt column and a 13" Grant steering wheel. I didn't like the looks of it in the Willys so I sold it and altered an original steering column. I cut the worm gear off the box end of the shaft and shortened everything and made a transition piece to my DD shaft. I relocated the horn button bushing so that the horn would function and everything looks original now. I have not modified my driveshafts. I am running 3.5" of lift with Black Diamond springs and 1/2" of lift with the Daystar shackles. I did install 6 deg. wedges to give a slightly better driveshaft angle on the rear. Don't use the aluminum or zinc wedges if you need them, they break very easily when wheeling. Make your own out of steel. I think I've mentioned previously that my leaf springs are rigid and non-flexible. There are only 5 leafs in each pack, so they are very thick leafs. My plan this winter is to remove at least two leafs and maybe 3. If I remove 3, I may have another one made and cut down one of the remaining, don't know for sure yet. I'll be testing and reporting in the near future. I currently have between 6.25" and 6.5" of clearance between the axle bump stop perch and the rubber bumper (not the frame). Right now, that's irrelevant because I have ZERO flex. This much lift is absolutely necessary with my 34" super swampers, however (or least something close to it). I'm constantly torn between lift and 34" tires or stock height with say 30" tires. Like Stan, I really like the low center of gravity on a stock 2a, but then I like being able to drive over a 15" rock also . You definitely need the flex if you are going to wheel this jeep. If you are going to go with the 34" tires for now (and I would), remove or alter leafs to give some flex. You will also need the lift for these tires or they will rub just going down the street. Jeeps are ever-evolving projects and you can alter it as you figure out what works and doesn't work for you. Rick |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Rick, Thank you for the detailed response. I have begun making a few decisions with my jeep. I have decided to go with a more stock-ish setup. I put a new set of crown replacement springs on the jeep. I had the 4" skyjacker springs. They were ridged as you described. Mine had 5 thick leaves with a ton of arch. I experimented with the front a little bit. I removed one of the full length leaves and one of the short lower leaves. It didnt make a bit of difference....so I went with the stock replacements. It lowered the jeep by about 3" but now it flexes and gives when I stand on the frame. With the lift springs i could jack up one side of the axle about 2 inches and the other wheel would lift of the ground. Much better now....but I did sacrifice the height and the "tough" look. So, needless to say the 9x34 swampers are for sale and I am shopping for something in the 30-31" range. We dont have rocks or rockcrawling available my area so stock height should be fine. The only things extra height on my others rigs has proved helpful for is driving over logs, crossing creeks and deep snow. This jeep wont likely see much snow driving so I think It will be ok. I also have disc brakes and am not willing to sacrifice the look of stock wheels, so I need some sort of spacers. My jeep came with 2 of those universal slide on 1/4" spacers...YUCK. I dont trust those things. I have been looking at spidertrax but the smallest I can find is 1.25-1.5 thick. I only need a 1/2" so I dont want to go any wider than i have to. Where did you find 1" spacers? I could deal with that. Im also a little worried that my wheel studs will be too long for the spacers. It looks like the previous owner installed longer studs to make up for the slide on spacers. So I may have to go back to stock studs.....im beginning to wonder if the disc brakes are more pain than they are worth. I have th parts to take it back to drum???? Not sure what I will do there. Anyway...thanks for the reply/info, and for listening to my rambling! I will keep you posted.
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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Your new springs will settle in a bit after all the weight is added back on. If I were you, I would leave them as you purchased them.
Also, you are missing your axle bump stops.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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I have heard the skyjacker springs do not ever settle enough to make a difference. Im not using them. The jeep currently has new stock replacement springs. That is what I will be running. Yes, im aware the snubbers are not installed.
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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I may have misread your earlier post. Thought you took some leafs out of your new Crowns. My suggestion was to keep your new springs intact and you'll eventually be happy with how it sits.
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Sorry i was confused too haha! I took leaves out of the skyjacker springs. The crown springs are untouched. :) Now im just trying to decide on tire size. I like 215/85's but they are the most expensive size. 235/85's are cheaper, but im worried they arent much smaller than the 34x9 swampers I just sold.....Im not good at making these decisions.
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markcl52
Member Joined: 04 Dec. 2015 Location: Mass Status: Offline Points: 286 |
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Did you go with the 10 leaf or 8 leaf up front? I need to replace mine and they’re currently a 10 leaf, but I think it had a plow on it at some point. Wondering if I need to replace with a 10 or if it will be too stiff. I will be putting a winch up front.
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Rick G
Member Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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Seth, I got my spacers off of Amazon. They are made by ATV Engineering. Search for wheel spacers there and you’ll get a huge list! I love my discs, won’t go back to original drums unless I build a bone stock original.
What front axle are you running? I noticed that your knuckles are the MB/GPW type with the separate tie rod end arms. And the drag link and tie tod looks like they are from a wagon or pickup. I’ll be interested in how you like that setup.
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Millennium falcon
Member Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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I have found I can increase my productivity by 34.9% but cutting my sleep down to 4 hours per night! Its 2:31 am, I just came in from priming the tub. Seam sealer and top coat tomorrow night if all goes well. The weather is oddly warm right now so I am taking advantage of that. 67 in the shop tonight! Primer turned out pretty good. These tubs are tricky to coat. Lots of nooks and crannies. The sheet metal is far from perfect, but there is no rust.....and almost no body filler. I would rather look at some dents and waves than bondo. It makes me feel good to know whats there. It was a lot of work torching off all that bondo, but im happy with the end result.
Tires have been ordered should be here Thursday.. wheels are half painted. I will try to get some pictures of them tomorrow.
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Rick G
Member Joined: 17 May 2015 Location: Amarillo, TX Status: Offline Points: 1467 |
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good progress, Seth. I agree...sleep is overrated
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Watching you make continuous, steady progress is inspiring. Great photos too, thanks for taking us along for the ride!
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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