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Father son project cj2/3 |
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leecarr 
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Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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 Posted: 29 Nov. 2017 at 2:50pm |
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Looks good, what are you using for a welder ?
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Millennium falcon
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Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Posted: 29 Nov. 2017 at 4:17pm |
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thanks! Hobart 135 with gas and .023 wire
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leecarr
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Joined: 27 Sep. 2016 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 910 |
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Posted: 29 Nov. 2017 at 10:12pm |
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Using gas makes a big difference, I've been using the same 200 amp Miller mig for over 30 years.
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Millennium falcon
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Joined: 20 Sep. 2016 Location: Central PA Status: Offline Points: 1521 |
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Posted: 30 Nov. 2017 at 3:33am |
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So much for "the tub wont need much work" Who ever did the body work before me did an excellent job of hiding things with seam sealer... On a positive note.... it feels good to get the rust/crust/crap cut out. New metal going in tomorrow. I was going to just patch the bad potion of the wheel well, but I didnt want a weld seam half way between the bed floor and top of the wheel arch. I think a full panel will be easier to fit, and better in the long run. It was a top of work removing these panels. I did it carefully as to not damage the other panels. I'm hoping that will make it go back together easier.
   I had to separate the bed floor from the wheel well anyway to even up the seam on the rear valance. It had about 3/8" offset. So that was half the work anyway.  |
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Millennium falcon
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Posted: 30 Nov. 2017 at 11:53pm |
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I made the panels....fitted them and welded the passenger side in. Driver side is fitted but still needs welded. I will take better pictures once I flip the tub over, but you get the idea.
     I also fixed the joint where the bed side and the rear panel meet. in doing this the tailgate latch thingy was now in the wrong spot. I fixed that as well. now the tailgate opening is square and the tailgate fits perfectly. opens and closes, and is flush with the top of the bed.     |
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7977 |
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 1:42am |
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Nice work where did you get those interesting vise grips with the extendable pads???? I could use a couple pair of those to go with the 25 other vise grippy things I have.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Millennium falcon
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 2:17am |
Yes, those things rock! they go out to like 12-14" I picked them up at tractor supply for $9.99! |
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Mark W.
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 5:09am |
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WOW I'll have to look into that
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Freedom21
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Joined: 04 Oct. 2015 Location: CedarSprings,MI Status: Offline Points: 475 |
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 1:46pm |
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[QUOTE=Millennium falcon]I made the panels....fitted them and welded the passenger side in. Driver side is fitted but still needs welded. I will take better pictures once I flip the tub over, but you get the idea.
I have a couple questions, if you wouldn't mind me asking as I am learning as I go. 1. I see you spot welded the bed to the inner wall. Will you go back and weld the length of it, or use a seam sealer or something? 2. Did you use a spot welder, or another technique? (I don't have a spot welder) Thanks for sharing. Posts like this are encouraging when I start second guessing myself.  |
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09 JKU
02 KJ 66 CJ-5 48 CJ2A "Lefty" ?? M416 |
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Millennium falcon
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 2:24pm |
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Freedon21- Sure thing! I will not be welding the entire seam. just the spot welds. That is all it had from the factory, and doing full welds on sheetmetal (in my experience) looks crummy and warps the metal. I will use some seam sealer where appropriate. I do not have a spot welder, I drilled small holes in the panel and clamped it tight and filled the hole with weld. You have to make sure to get the temp just right. too hot and it blows through, to cool, and the panels will pop apart when you remove the clamp. If you do it just right it will look just like a spot weld. No grinding needed. A nice hot weld the doesnt blow through will puddle nice and level with the surface and be glowing red on the back side without blowing through. I am a total amateur so please dont take too much stock in what I saw.... this is just my personal experience from tinkering around.
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Millennium falcon
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 2:26pm |
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Freedom21- here is my seat back panel with the spot weld holes.
Before:  After:  |
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Freedom21
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Joined: 04 Oct. 2015 Location: CedarSprings,MI Status: Offline Points: 475 |
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 2:37pm |
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After doing a google search, I seen the drilling technique and wondered if that is what you had done. Welding the length of it does seem excessive. I didn't think about the warp factor. That makes sense. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I really appreciate it. I'm going to practice the drill/weld on some scrap when I get some time. Keep up the great work!
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09 JKU
02 KJ 66 CJ-5 48 CJ2A "Lefty" ?? M416 |
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wadoyado
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 3:50pm |
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"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Millennium falcon
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Posted: 01 Dec. 2017 at 10:22pm |
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Wll thank you Wadoyado! I try hard to learn from my mistakes and improve my methods over the years. There is always room to get better and learn something new!
I have been trying to figure out what to do about a tool box. Mine was in terrible condition. It also was installed very poorly and just wasnt worth fixing. I dont have $250 to drop on a new one..... so today was my lucky day! I picked this one up locally for $20! It has had a little.....lets say "custom" work done to it, but is in pretty good condition overall, and very rust free! For that price I dont mind putting a little time into making it fit correctly. If anyone can offer up some dimensions on the factory tool box, that would be great. Specifically the distance from the tub side to the trans tunnel side. Someone notched this one so it is a little more narrow than it should be. I also need the distance from the back side near the bed floor to the front edge where the passenger floor is. I have done some Googling but not found the proper dimensions. Thanks!      |
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mkoloc
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Joined: 29 Oct. 2014 Location: OH Status: Offline Points: 323 |
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Posted: 02 Dec. 2017 at 4:22am |
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ML, just wanted to compliment you on your excellent work! Great approach regards your spot welding, did the same on my 53 Dodge M37 Restoration. I've worked on lots of vehicles, mostly big stuff so these 1/4 tons are new experience especially the bodies!
Like you, I too wanted and have been able to interest my son's and even my daughter in my military vehicle hobby ...goal is to leave them (3 boys 1 girl) each a vehicle when I ship out ...of course who gets what will be the deciding factor  .Enjoying Your Build, Mark (COL K)
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LTC Mark Koloc (USA-RET)
MVPA#31144 OEF Afghan 03-04 OEF Africa 05-07 OEF KFOR 08-09 WTB 09-11 1942 Ford GPW 43 M16A2 Half-Track w/44 M10 Trlr 1943 M3 Sct Car 1947 CJ2A |
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Millennium falcon
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Posted: 02 Dec. 2017 at 12:25pm |
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Thanks mkloc! These are awesome little vehicles to work on. Just big enough to hone your skills, but no so big that they overwhelm you. I intended this to be a "father/son" project but was pleasantly surprised with my daughters in the jeep. She is always excited to work in the garage and loves to get her hands dirty and out do her brother. I can already hear them fighting over the jeep when they get older. I guess I will need one for each of them! 
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Millennium falcon
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Posted: 02 Dec. 2017 at 12:43pm |
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I did some more work last night... I am really excited to repair and install my toolbox but figured I better finish my the wheel well panels before I move on to something else.... So I asked a friend to help me flip the tub over. Then I finished a few little welds and cleaned up the edges.... they are done! Then I notice light shining through and found a small soft spot behind the fender brace.... Grrrr! The metal looked solid, but it rusted from the inside out. It must have trapped dirt and water behind the hat channel brace thingy. It was only a small spot, But I know it will be a big spot after a year of driving so I cut out the bad spot and made a patch panel. I used the butt weld clamps from harbor freight to hold the panel in place. They work very well.... The part was in a spot that made welding and sanding smooth difficult on the outer edge. to tight to get the grinder in there all the way.
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Mark W.
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Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7977 |
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Posted: 02 Dec. 2017 at 3:20pm |
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An excellent tool for grinding away at small places is the Harbor Freight 3/8" x 13" belt sander. Granted you need a compressor and the damn little belts aren't cheap for as long as they last. (I buy the 60 grit ones from Amazon using our prime membership for free shipping and I buy 3-4 packages of 10 at a time)
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/sanders/38-in-belt-air-sander-60627.html https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BHNPXQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Typically on one of my nasty plug welds it will do about two welds per belt. So like $.36 per spot. I only use it where I can't get anything else into. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Mark W. wrote: