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Head Stud Removal - Last One

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WillyBill View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WillyBill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Head Stud Removal - Last One
    Posted: 15 Nov. 2018 at 12:13am
Since that stud hole had already been repaired with a heli-coil I used a BIG-SERT Kit number 5761 - 7/16-14 and used the 0.6 inch long inserts that came with the kit. I also ordered and used the tap guide number 57655. I got all of my Time-Sert kits, guides, and extra inserts from BelMetric.com. 

Bill
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brachus12 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov. 2018 at 10:00pm
Originally posted by WillyBill WillyBill wrote:

ralf: thanks for the tip on the rescue bit. I'll be getting some of those. 

I had a hole that had been fixed with a helicoil. I wanted a better thread repair. I removed the helicoil and replaced it with a Time sert. 
http://www.timesert.com/  (I tried several times to make this an active link but finally gave up)
 
Which timesert exactly did you use? I contacted them and they sent me a generic list of questions like:
-how deep is the hole
-how deep to the first starting thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb. 2018 at 8:28pm
Yes, I should have said replace not repair. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb. 2018 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by jeeper50 jeeper50 wrote:

replace the bent valve, cheaper in the long run


X2!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeeper50 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb. 2018 at 2:59pm
replace the bent valve, cheaper in the long run

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RSR_MK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb. 2018 at 2:56pm
Thanks for the update. Glad it worked out for you. 

Mike

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb. 2018 at 2:35pm
Just wanted to finish this thread and say that I successfully fixed the stud. Having never done it before, it took way longer than it should have but I did not want to damage the hole and have never drilled into an engine block before. I also do not have welding equipment so those options were not available when removing the broken stud. I did use a Helicoil and it seems to be fine but I can see how Timesert would be better. Anyway, if anyone is hesitant to do this, it can be done and is easier than it seems. The most important part is to make sure everything is drilled straight and square. And if you get frustrated, just walk away and come back the next day. Now to repair the bent valve..............................  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greaser007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Feb. 2018 at 4:24am
   I have one-more method of removing broken studs.

An old mechanic told me of this old-school-trick to remove broken studs.

First thing i would recommend is drill a 1/8-inch Pilot hole 1/4-inch deep into the broken stud.

The old-timer just said to put the Heat to the stud and Blow-it-out.

Second thing - fire up the cutting torch and put the tip on the edge of the pilot hole until melted and put the Oxygen to it.
   The oxygen will Blow the stud back out of the hole. ... it's True !

   I have done this numerous times successfully.

The old timer reminded me that the steel melts way sooner than the Cast Iron.

Once you have the stud blown-out, then you carefully pick the remaining pieces out of the hole and chase the threads with a Tap.

Worse case - you drill and install the Heli-coil threads.   Tada !

   Len


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2018 at 2:44am
I read it but it just registered in my brain.  I will use the head , well the old head, as a guide.  That will get me going straight.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 10:29pm
Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

Here is a pretty neat tutorial on removing a broken stud using TIG welding, a washer and a nut.


Well, there you go...learned something new!   

I hope I never break another stud, but if I do...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 8:17pm
I like their method way better then what I have been doing. I've always just placed a nut over the end of the stud and welded down the center of the nut to the stud, but sometimes I hit the side of the nut with the wire first and the nut doesn't weld to the stud very well... never considered the washer first. Wacko
 
So thanks for the link ndnchf Clap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 8:00pm
I wouldn't say that is the right way but rather that is one way because all applications wouldn't accept that much heat.

   Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ralf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 7:58pm
If the block is out of the Jeep, take it to the machine shop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alpine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 7:37pm
The stud is out, I am trying to figure out how to accurately drill the hole for the insert. I am thinking that creating a wood template using the gasket and then utilizing that with a drill guide and it might work. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by ndnchf ndnchf wrote:

Here is a pretty neat tutorial on removing a broken stud using TIG welding, a washer and a nut.


 
I liked the ending..Thumbs Up
Now throw away every one of your drill guides, your so-called easy-outs (easy-brokes), and your 'screw extractors' before someone gets hurt! Do it now! Right this minute!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 7:08pm
Here is a pretty neat tutorial on removing a broken stud using TIG welding, a washer and a nut.


1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 5:24pm
As was mentioned before, you could use the head for a guide. Just bolt the head on the block and find a combinations of pipe and or tubing that will just fit in the hole of the head with out to much slop. This is where a lathe would come in handy but you might be able to find some parts that will work, like and old valve guide for example. It would be nice if you could make the first guide to accept a 1/4 or 5/16" drill bit then go up from there to the desired size to thread the new hole.

Or if you had a friend or local machine shop you could have them to make you a set of guides, one for the pilot hole and one for the tap size to thread it. While you were at it you could have a set made for the manifold studs too.

    Jim

   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WillyBill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan. 2018 at 4:26pm
Alpine, Can you post a good clear picture, looking straight down, of the stud hole you are dealing with?
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