11" Brake Upgrade - Tips and Lessons Learned? - The CJ2A Page Forums

jeeper50 wrote:

IDorman sells the brake shoe retainer plates and the wheel cylinder links

Just have to keep lookin'

Care to share any part numbers for these items that have worked for you ?

1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s

Thanks.

Those were the only numbers I had found.

Didn't know if they would work for 11" or not.

1947 CJ2A 225V6 SM420 D30 PLok/D44 D/Locker Warn OD 5:38s

Santa in the big Brown truck came today with my 11" brake kit. It looks great. Maybe a dumb question, but I want to get this correct. Does the shoe with the shorter lining go toward the front? In the photo, the brakes on the left have an "L" on the silver adjuster and short lining to the left. Am I correct in assuming that one goes on the left side. The other brake with the gold adjuster has an "R" stamped on the adjuster and the short lining to the right.

1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.

Yes I agree small shoe toward front of jeep

Right lever goes on right side of Jeep.

Self adjust cable goes toward the rear of jeep.

The wheel cylinder ports are angle toward the rear of jeep.

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

Another item to index L/H and R/H backing plates

The brake adjusting tooling slot always is to the rear of the jeep, because the adjusters can be installed wrong. But the adjusting spoon has to be able to turn the star wheel.

I guess you opted to use the long mid 70s brakehose instead of the keep the original look, either way they work good.

Edited by jeeper50 - 02 Apr. 2018 at 10:01pm

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
'48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers

Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement

I got the drivers side front brakes off, but since I'm a newbie at this, I have a couple questions.

When I removed the hose guard, One of the king pin studs came out with the nut. The stud looks fairly new and both threads are good. What is the best way to install it? Should I put some loctite on it or just seat it to the end of the threads? The threads are a little shorter on one end. Short threads go inside?

I pulled the spindle off to see what kind of grease was in the knuckle - it was wheel bearing grease. So I scooped as much out as I could with my fingers, then plan to refill with cornhead grease. Question - it seems like the axle will just pull out, but I didn't try. Will it just pull out without being a problem to put back in? It would be easier to clean out the old grease if so. But I don't want to pull it out if it will create more problems.

I expected to see a gasket between the spindle and knuckle, but there wasn't one. I didn't see one in the service manual exploded view either. Is that right?

I was glad to see the Dualmatic hub was not cracked or damaged.

One thing that didn't surprise me was that Bubba had been at work on the spindle nut.

Here are a few pics

Thanks guys

Steve

1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.

they seemed to be made from unobtaininum back in the seventies 'cause I never had one until the mid 90s.

Use locktight on the king pin stud. cornhead grease it good. ON my first 11" brake install I used the long hoses too and used a string to pull the hose down below the wheel cylinder to help eliminate the air bubbles in the new hose way above the WC when bleeding the brakes.

Hope that's one of the wife's cereal bowls...

Belleview ol skool winch soon.
'48 CJ2A 283 V8 sm 420 granny low, tera low D18, overdrive,lockers

Texan at heart,Alabama by retirement

ndnchf wrote:

Fortunately those sockets are readily available now. A few months ago I ordered two of them, one for the onboard tool kit and one for the garage. So I'm well stocked Smile

I'll set the stud with loctite tonight.

I think the biggest challenge on this project will be separating the hub and drum. I bought two 5/8" bi-metal hole saws to cut the swaged ring around the studs and have a 20 ton press, so I think I have every thing needed. But I'm still a little uneasy about it. But maybe I'm just being a worry wart.

Be sure to support the back of the drum with something hollow about the size of the stud head so that the drum won't bend as you are pressing the stud out. If that is done, then the only thing you will have to do is make sure the stud is squarely under the press. It's not that hard. Good luck.

46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it.

I read that too. I looked at the heads of the studs. They are pretty beefy and kind of hard to get to. So I decided to go the other way. I bought the 5/8" hole saw to cut the swage and will try to press them out. I suppose there are pros and cons to each way.

1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.