Drip, Drip, Drip |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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I spoke with someone at Fitzpatrick about any potential dimension problems with the flange. He indicated that there was another manufacturer that made some out of spec. He ensured me that there were no issues with the ones they sell.
Package should get her Friday. Hopefully, I will tackle it this weekend. I have an English car supposedly known for leaks and electrical problems. No electrical and close to no leaks after a full restoration. It always comes down to how much you want to spend. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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dluber
Member Joined: 24 May 2016 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 817 |
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I had no problem with my new part being out of spec.
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cal.bar
Member Joined: 10 Sep. 2016 Location: So. Cal. Status: Offline Points: 768 |
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Remember, if it's a stereotype, it's because IT'S TRUE more often than not. |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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I believe what Stev was saying was that while most Willys apparently do leak, it is possible to get yours leak free if this is a goal of yours. At no point was he saying that no Willys ever leaks.
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6142 |
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I believe that the right person can get the right Willys not to leak. I know that I am not that person and getting MY Jeep not to leak is beyond my skill set.
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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Haha, you're too honest Stan!
So far I seem to have a leak free Jeep. I'm not saying it will always be leak free, but that is how it is at the moment. I must add that I did put in quite a bit of effort:
These things will all help to get a jeep as leak free as possible. But circumstances may prevent some of them from being possible (like not having all components out of the jeep and completely stripped), and some jeeps will probably always leak due to deep scratches and warped cover plates etc. No jeep is the same. But if someone is striving towards a leak free jeep, IMO it is possible, but only with lots of time and effort, and the above mentioned steps are all necessary. Worth it? THAT is up to the individual owner to decide...
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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jpet
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 5 Joined: 30 Apr. 2008 Location: Ramsey, IL Status: Offline Points: 11174 |
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The drip pan in the garage can be handy, but not so handy when you are in the grocery store parking lot.
Yes, fix your leaks, but sometimes when a leak occurs, you might not have time to pull everything apart. I have found a temporary solution: Rear main seal: These PIG absorbent pads will suck up ALOT of oil and they are flame resistant. https://www.newpig.com/pig-absorbent-mat-pad-in-dispenser-box/p/MAT240#desc-spec Use these now and fix leaks in the winter. Since your leak is the rear output shaft and that is a relative easy fix, I'd just fix it but since the title of this thread is "Drip, Drip, Drip", I thought I could pass this along and stay on topic. This is good for a rear main seal or tranny leak. Once the seal starts to go bad, L heads are notorious for leaking a pancake out the rear main seal when you shut them off. This will get you by till you can fix it and keep from dumping oil on your driveway, at the gas station, or other parking lot. You may have to change a diaper once in a while, but not often. |
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CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM" "We do what we can, and we try what we can't" |
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LesBerg
Member Joined: 09 Apr. 2014 Location: Athol, ID Status: Offline Points: 1554 |
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^^this^^ My only leak is the rear t-case output shaft, but I can't get the yoke off to save my life. I forgot the speedo drive gear and I think the yoke went too deep on the splines. About the only thing I haven't tried to pull it off with is a hydraulic ram. |
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1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div 6th Infantry Reg 3rd Infantry Bn Headquarters Company #161 rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust" |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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Well, yesterday was the day to get this done. The puddle in
the street had grown embarrassingly large even with a drip pan out there. Rain
flooded my pan and just made it worse. I’m going to have to get the pressure
washer out there. This turned out to be a long day. Not so much because the
job was difficult but because of the cleanup needed to try and make sure that
there were no leaks. 71 years of fossilized grease and mud were a challenge to
get off, even with some previous rounds of pressure washing and a pre-teardown
soak with strong degreaser. The brake drum assemble was packed with oil, mud
and twigs. I started at 9:30 AM and
ended at 10:00 PM. I went to the store once and had one coffee break. I needed
to put my car back in the garage. So, I wanted it done in a day. The first problem was getting the drum off. Without a friend’s
impact wrench, I would not have gotten it off. As I said before, cleanup was pretty involved. I degreased,
wire brushed and used break clean to get everything as clean as I could. The paper seals were either gone or crumbled. The felt seal
was MIA. The flange seal was a single lip version. I made the mistake of assuming my parking brake was OK. I’m
trying to keep costs down for now. So, I did not order shoes. I looked and I
thought there was a lot left. The opposite side I looked at was down to the rivets.
Also, a return spring was broken. I’m going to have to revisit this at a later
date. I used Permatex #2 on the splines, threads and in seating
the double lipped main shaft seal. I used Permatex Aviation sealant on each of
the shims and all paper gaskets. The four bolts got new copper washers. I used
a PVC coupler as a seal driver. I ran into one issue that was very frustrating. I ordered a
new output flange from Ron Fitzpatrick. I wanted to do this 100% correct and
was worried that my flange was going to have a groove. This was slated as a one-day
job. So, I paid to have all the parts and extras on hand. Fitzpatrick cut the tags
off so I cannot say who made it. I think it is Crown. It didn’t fit. It was too
large to fit into the drum. Not happy about that. I dug out the old one and cleaned it up. I could see where
the seal rode and there was an almost imperceptible ridge. Also, since it was a
single lip seal. There was wear in only one area. Since it was so minor, it was
not worth attempting to polish. I’m hoping the new double lip will ride in a
new location. Back in she went. Everything fit well. Parking brake linkage is a
bit of a pain. Impact wrench was a must. It took a bit to get it all reassembled with all the
sealants. I had to pull some of it back apart again because of the cheap
speedometer cable did not want to go back in. I really wanted to do the front seal and shifter seals also.
They have a very minor weep. I was so tired that I did not even contemplate it. I filled it back up and a river did not flow out. It was
dark and late. So, I just parked it and cleaned up. I took it out for two very short drives. So far, not a drop!
I will report back after a few more miles. Tackling this was not too bad. Just be prepared for a lot of
clean up. I think you need an impact wrench. Also, check your parts for fit
before doing a full tear down. Do the handbrake too. Micah Edited by Steelyard Blues - 16 Apr. 2018 at 1:13am |
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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cowboy64
Member Joined: 01 Nov. 2017 Location: south arkansas Status: Offline Points: 123 |
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all the time spent cleaning paid off !! Looking sharp... Michael
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mam
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tamnalan
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2013 Location: Port Orford, OR Status: Offline Points: 991 |
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I think it is definitely possible to build jeep components that don't leak.
I do not think it is possible for said components to all be leak-free at the SAME TIME. :(
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Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD" 1943 MB - "Lt Bob" 1950 cj3a M-100 x2 teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740 |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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So far, I have about 50 miles on her and the repair is leak free.
I did notice some weeping coming from the top of the trans. I previously replaced the shift tower seal. So, I'm not sure where it is coming from. I might pull the cover off again and take a look. Any suggestions for trouble spots? Still getting a few drips from the drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing. Not sure if it is the transmission front seal or the rear main. Both have new oil so it is dripping clear. I think I will dump a bit of dye in the transmission and see if I can nail these leaks down. Also, multiple emails to Fitzpatrick about the output flange not fitting. No response. Micah
Edited by Steelyard Blues - 27 Apr. 2018 at 12:55am |
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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TateC
Member Joined: 23 Feb. 2018 Location: SLC, Utah Status: Offline Points: 510 |
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I think Ron Fitzpatrick is out of town till the 27th. Maybe you will get a response soon.
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Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687 1943 Willys MB #263100 1944 Ford GPW #234613 1945 Willys CJ2A #10226 |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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He might have gone to the military meet this week but I emailed over a weeks ago. Hopefully I will get a response.
Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
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The shift tower will seep oil unless it is sealed up, mostly from the shift rail channels, and the pin that stops the lever from rotating. This has been discussed a number of times on the forum. Do a search and you will find multiple discussions on what others have tried in order to seal up these leaks.
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1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9652 |
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"Still getting a few drips from the drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing. Not sure if it is the transmission front seal or the rear main. Both have new oil so it is dripping clear."
Get yourself a small container such as a tea-cup or a saucer, or some some such somethin', and put it under the bellhousing to catch some of the drips. Then drop some oil from the dipstick into it and see if it looks the same or different. Then stick your finger or something in the transmission fill hole and get a bit of trans oil and test it the same way. Also, the smell test may give a hint. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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I pulled the shift cover tower. Yep, I can see fresh GL-1 coming out of the rear shift rods when you cycle them. Wish they would have machined these with O rings.
Took off the clutch inspection cover. I could see oil on the pressure plate fingers. So, I must have a bit of a leak from the input shaft. Flushed it with some degreaser. Adjusted the clutch. That was kind of a pain in the ... I think I will deal with the drips until I do the restoration. Micah
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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Well, after doing the rear flange, I was seeing a few drips
and once a decent puddle. I guess my repair didn’t take. Also, I was seeing a
few drips from the front flange. So, this weekend was the second attempt at stopping the drip,
drip, drip. My parking brake was nearly down to the rivets and a spring
was broken. I did not discover this until I had it apart last time and I had to
get her back together. This time, I had new shoes and springs waiting. Last time, I had to reuse the original flange. The replacement
from Fitzpatrick may not have been machined properly. I could not get it in the
brake drum. I emailed Fitzpatrick for a replacement and never heard a word from
them. Done with them. I got everything apart with no issues. I tried the new
flange again and it appeared hopeless to get her in there. I tried to source
one locally with no luck. So, for about 45 minutes, I sat at the workbench with a hand
file working back and forth grinding away on the brake drum. Finally, with my
hands cramping up, I got it to fit. A new seal, Permatex #2, some Aviation Permatex and she was
all back together. All told, with the search for the flange and a run to Napa
for another jug of GL-1, I was about 6 hours into it. New shoes are a bitch to get in. I had a replacement flange for the front. So, I pulled it
apart and thought I would give it a shot since the transfer case was drained. Even
with an impact wrench, I could not get the nut off. With a shot of the acetone and
ATF, she came right off. No problems getting the flange out. She had a nice
grove in it and the felt was MIA. Then I made my big mistake. I tried to remove the seal. My
seal puller cut the seal. Now I was committed. For about an hour, I drilled, chiseled,
cut and pried at that damn seal. Great, I’m screwed. Now, what am I going to
do? At 9:00, I surrendered. Today, I was back at it. Drilling, hammering, prying,
chiseling and cursing. One broken screwdriver, one broken needle nose plier,
one broken drill bit, two more hours and a partial loss of my sanity, it came
out! That ranked high on the pain in the ass list for my 40 years of tinkering
on cars. A little cleaning up of some gouges and errant drill bit
marks and she was ready for reassembly. Repeat the sealing process. No
problems. I got a nice little workout pumping nearly a gallon of GL-1
back in there. This old girl better start showing some love. This is the third
time in 9 months that that I have owned her that she has gotten a fluid change.
Everything is back together. No leaks. Shop is cleaned up. It
is nearly 6:00. Time for a test drive. I take her around the corner and come
back. On the return trip, I see a nice fluid trail leading home. Damn it! I pull
onto my street and there is a puddle in the middle of the street like someone
threw up and then drooled a stream for another 15 feet. Oh, what the hell!. I
could not have screwed it up that bad. I pull up to the house, shut her down and take a peak
underneath. Nothing pouring from the transfer case. I look in the street and it
is a puddle and trail of nice clean oil. What the….? Damn it, I do not want to
do this again. I look under again and up a bit and see a couple drips coming
from the engine. I open the hood and there is the problem. I cleaned the air filter
and replaced the oil. I did not seat it correctly and it came apart dumping a
fresh quart of oil in the street. Well, that could have been a hell of a lot worse.
Replace the oil, seat it properly and it is off for a test drive. I need a cup
of coffee. I notice a drip out of the rear. I’m hoping it is just the seal
getting seated. I’m not doing this again. I hope it holds. I’m on my third beer now. I think I will take a little break
before I tackle the next 2A project. I’m sure this memory will fade and be
replaced by the fun of replacing the front and rear axel yoke seals. They drip,
drip, drip. Micah |
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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