Forum Home Forum Home > CJ-2A Discussion Area > Tech Questions and Answers
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Drip, Drip, Drip
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Drip, Drip, Drip

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>
Author
Message
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1500
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2018 at 2:09am
I spoke with someone at Fitzpatrick about any potential dimension problems with the flange. He indicated that there was another manufacturer that made some out of spec. He ensured me that there were no issues with the ones they sell.
 
Package should get her Friday. Hopefully, I will tackle it this weekend.
 
I have an English car supposedly known for leaks and electrical problems. No electrical and close to no leaks after a full restoration. It always comes down to how much you want to spend.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
dluber View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 24 May 2016
Location: Maryland
Status: Offline
Points: 817
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dluber Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2018 at 2:20am
I had no problem with my new part being out of spec. 
Back to Top
cal.bar View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 10 Sep. 2016
Location: So. Cal.
Status: Offline
Points: 768
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cal.bar Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2018 at 4:36am
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

"I've always heard if there isn't oil under them there isn't oil in them."

Actually, you can get them sealed up.  If they are well maintained they will not drip.  You don't have to live with a mess on the ground.
Well Steve - your mileage may vary, but I've seen pics of giant exhibition halls full of WWII era vehicles including dozens of Willys.  EVERY ONE had a drip pan under them.  (and these were museum quality restorations)  now, they may not all have leaked, but enough of them do (regardless of maintenance) that they all had drip pans underneath. There's a reason for that (and it's not because the drip pan distributor was putting on the show).
 
Remember, if it's a stereotype, it's because IT'S TRUE more often than not.
 
Back to Top
JeepSaffer View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 26 Sep. 2014
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 1181
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2018 at 10:46am
I believe what Stev was saying was that while most Willys apparently do leak, it is possible to get yours leak free if this is a goal of yours. At no point was he saying that no Willys ever leaks.
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
Back to Top
smfulle View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar
Sponsor Member

Joined: 16 Sep. 2010
Location: Ogden, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 6142
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2018 at 3:48pm
I believe that the right person can get the right Willys not to leak. I know that I am not that person and getting MY Jeep not to leak is beyond my skill set. 
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
Back to Top
JeepSaffer View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 26 Sep. 2014
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 1181
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2018 at 4:09pm
Haha, you're too honest Stan! LOL

So far I seem to have a leak free Jeep. I'm not saying it will always be leak free, but that is how it is at the moment.

I must add that I did put in quite a bit of effort:
  • It was a frame off resto, so all components were taken out of the jeep and stripped completely
  • All new gaskets used
  • All gasket surfaces were cleaned of old gasket material, cleaned with degreaser, dressed with sandpaper where necessary to remove scratches and gouges, and finally wiped with pure ethanol (alcohol) as a final treatment. They were down to shiny clean metal and surgically clean.
  • All bolt holes were chased with the correct taps
  • All bolt threads were wire wheeled and threads cleaned with ethanol
  • All gaskets (both sides) and bolt threads got a thin layer of Permatex #2 equivalent on them to seal them
  • Cover plates and sealing plates were hammered flat at bolt holes where they had been over tightened in the past and pulled out of shape.
  • Bolts were all tightened to spec with a torque wrench in a sequential manner.

These things will all help to get a jeep as leak free as possible. But circumstances may prevent some of them from being possible (like not having all components out of the jeep and completely stripped), and some jeeps will probably always leak due to deep scratches and warped cover plates etc. No jeep is the same. But if someone is striving towards a leak free jeep, IMO it is possible, but only with lots of time and effort, and the above mentioned steps are all necessary.

Worth it? THAT is up to the individual owner to decide... Wink
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
Back to Top
jpet View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar
Sponsor Member x 5

Joined: 30 Apr. 2008
Location: Ramsey, IL
Status: Offline
Points: 11174
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2018 at 6:10pm
The drip pan in the garage can be handy, but not so handy when you are in the grocery store parking lot.

Yes, fix your leaks, but sometimes when a leak occurs, you might not have time to pull everything apart. I have found a temporary solution:





Rear main seal:



These PIG absorbent pads will suck up ALOT of oil and they are flame resistant.

https://www.newpig.com/pig-absorbent-mat-pad-in-dispenser-box/p/MAT240#desc-spec

Use these now and fix leaks in the winter.

Since your leak is the rear output shaft and that is a relative easy fix, I'd just fix it but since the title of this thread is "Drip, Drip, Drip", I thought I could pass this along and stay on topic. This is good for a rear main seal or tranny leak. Once the seal starts to go bad, L heads are notorious for leaking a pancake out the rear main seal when you shut them off. This will get you by till you can fix it and keep from dumping oil on your driveway, at the gas station, or other parking lot.

You may have to change a diaper once in a while, but not often.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
MB #204827 "BAM BAM"

"We do what we can, and we try what we can't"
Back to Top
LesBerg View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Apr. 2014
Location: Athol, ID
Status: Offline
Points: 1554
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr. 2018 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by Stev Stev wrote:

"I've always heard if there isn't oil under them there isn't oil in them."

Actually, you can get them sealed up.  If they are well maintained they will not drip.  You don't have to live with a mess on the ground.


^^this^^

My only leak is the rear t-case output shaft, but I can't get the yoke off to save my life. I forgot the speedo drive gear and I think the yoke went too deep on the splines. About the only thing I haven't tried to pull it off with is a hydraulic ram.
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
Back to Top
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1500
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2018 at 1:10am

Well, yesterday was the day to get this done. The puddle in the street had grown embarrassingly large even with a drip pan out there. Rain flooded my pan and just made it worse. I’m going to have to get the pressure washer out there.

This turned out to be a long day. Not so much because the job was difficult but because of the cleanup needed to try and make sure that there were no leaks. 71 years of fossilized grease and mud were a challenge to get off, even with some previous rounds of pressure washing and a pre-teardown soak with strong degreaser. The brake drum assemble was packed with oil, mud and twigs.  I started at 9:30 AM and ended at 10:00 PM. I went to the store once and had one coffee break. I needed to put my car back in the garage. So, I wanted it done in a day.

The first problem was getting the drum off. Without a friend’s impact wrench, I would not have gotten it off.

As I said before, cleanup was pretty involved. I degreased, wire brushed and used break clean to get everything as clean as I could.

The paper seals were either gone or crumbled. The felt seal was MIA. The flange seal was a single lip version.

I made the mistake of assuming my parking brake was OK. I’m trying to keep costs down for now. So, I did not order shoes. I looked and I thought there was a lot left. The opposite side I looked at was down to the rivets. Also, a return spring was broken. I’m going to have to revisit this at a later date.

I used Permatex #2 on the splines, threads and in seating the double lipped main shaft seal. I used Permatex Aviation sealant on each of the shims and all paper gaskets. The four bolts got new copper washers. I used a PVC coupler as a seal driver.

I ran into one issue that was very frustrating. I ordered a new output flange from Ron Fitzpatrick. I wanted to do this 100% correct and was worried that my flange was going to have a groove. This was slated as a one-day job. So, I paid to have all the parts and extras on hand. Fitzpatrick cut the tags off so I cannot say who made it. I think it is Crown. It didn’t fit. It was too large to fit into the drum. Not happy about that.

I dug out the old one and cleaned it up. I could see where the seal rode and there was an almost imperceptible ridge. Also, since it was a single lip seal. There was wear in only one area. Since it was so minor, it was not worth attempting to polish. I’m hoping the new double lip will ride in a new location. Back in she went. Everything fit well. Parking brake linkage is a bit of a pain. Impact wrench was a must.

It took a bit to get it all reassembled with all the sealants. I had to pull some of it back apart again because of the cheap speedometer cable did not want to go back in.

I really wanted to do the front seal and shifter seals also. They have a very minor weep. I was so tired that I did not even contemplate it.

I filled it back up and a river did not flow out. It was dark and late. So, I just parked it and cleaned up.

I took it out for two very short drives. So far, not a drop!

I will report back after a few more miles.

Tackling this was not too bad. Just be prepared for a lot of clean up. I think you need an impact wrench. Also, check your parts for fit before doing a full tear down. Do the handbrake too.

Micah



Edited by Steelyard Blues - 16 Apr. 2018 at 1:13am
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
cowboy64 View Drop Down
Member
Member


Joined: 01 Nov. 2017
Location: south arkansas
Status: Offline
Points: 123
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cowboy64 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2018 at 2:24am
all the time spent cleaning paid off !! Looking sharp... Michael
mam
Back to Top
tamnalan View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 08 Oct. 2013
Location: Port Orford, OR
Status: Offline
Points: 991
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr. 2018 at 1:34pm
I think it is definitely possible to build jeep components that don't leak.
 
I do not think it is possible for said components to all be leak-free at the SAME TIME.  :(
Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD"
1943 MB - "Lt Bob"
1950 cj3a
M-100 x2
teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740
Back to Top
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1500
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 12:51am
So far, I have about 50 miles on her and the repair is leak free.
 
I did notice some weeping coming from the top of the trans. I previously replaced the shift tower seal. So, I'm not sure where it is coming from. I might pull the cover off again and take a look. Any suggestions for trouble spots?
 
Still getting a few drips from the drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing. Not sure if it is the transmission front seal or the rear main. Both have new oil so it is dripping clear.
 
I think I will dump a bit of dye in the transmission and see if I can nail these leaks down.
 
Also, multiple emails to Fitzpatrick about the output flange not fitting. No response.
 
Micah


Edited by Steelyard Blues - 27 Apr. 2018 at 12:55am
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
TateC View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 23 Feb. 2018
Location: SLC, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 510
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TateC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 1:40am
I think Ron Fitzpatrick is out of town till the 27th. Maybe you will get a response soon.
Tate Christensen
1941 Ford GP #9687
1943 Willys MB #263100
1944 Ford GPW #234613
1945 Willys CJ2A #10226
Back to Top
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1500
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 2:13am
He might have gone to the military meet this week but I emailed over a weeks ago. Hopefully I will get a response.
 
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
JeepSaffer View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 26 Sep. 2014
Location: South Africa
Status: Offline
Points: 1181
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepSaffer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 4:38am
The shift tower will seep oil unless it is sealed up, mostly from the shift rail  channels, and the pin that stops the lever from rotating. This has been discussed a number of times on the forum. Do a search and you will find multiple discussions on what others have tried in order to seal up these leaks.
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
Back to Top
Bruce W View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 29 July 2005
Location: Northeast Colorado
Status: Offline
Points: 9652
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr. 2018 at 5:19am
"Still getting a few drips from the drain hole at the bottom of the bell housing. Not sure if it is the transmission front seal or the rear main. Both have new oil so it is dripping clear."

Get yourself a small container such as a tea-cup or a saucer, or some some such somethin', and put it under the bellhousing to catch some of the drips. Then drop some oil from the dipstick into it and see if it looks the same or different. Then stick your finger or something in the transmission fill hole and get a bit of trans oil and test it the same way. Also, the smell test may give a hint.  BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
Back to Top
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1500
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr. 2018 at 1:50am
I pulled the shift cover tower. Yep, I can see fresh GL-1 coming out of the rear shift rods when you cycle them. Wish they would have machined these with O rings.
 
Took off the clutch inspection cover. I could see oil on the pressure plate fingers. So, I must have a bit of a leak from the input shaft. Flushed it with some degreaser.
 
Adjusted the clutch. That was kind of a pain in the ...
 
I think I will deal with the drips until I do the restoration.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
Member
Member
Avatar

Joined: 09 Oct. 2017
Location: Reno, NV
Status: Offline
Points: 1500
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2018 at 5:31am

Well, after doing the rear flange, I was seeing a few drips and once a decent puddle. I guess my repair didn’t take. Also, I was seeing a few drips from the front flange.

So, this weekend was the second attempt at stopping the drip, drip, drip.

My parking brake was nearly down to the rivets and a spring was broken. I did not discover this until I had it apart last time and I had to get her back together. This time, I had new shoes and springs waiting.

Last time, I had to reuse the original flange. The replacement from Fitzpatrick may not have been machined properly. I could not get it in the brake drum. I emailed Fitzpatrick for a replacement and never heard a word from them. Done with them.

I got everything apart with no issues. I tried the new flange again and it appeared hopeless to get her in there. I tried to source one locally with no luck.

So, for about 45 minutes, I sat at the workbench with a hand file working back and forth grinding away on the brake drum. Finally, with my hands cramping up, I got it to fit.

A new seal, Permatex #2, some Aviation Permatex and she was all back together. All told, with the search for the flange and a run to Napa for another jug of GL-1, I was about 6 hours into it.

New shoes are a bitch to get in.

I had a replacement flange for the front. So, I pulled it apart and thought I would give it a shot since the transfer case was drained. Even with an impact wrench, I could not get the nut off. With a shot of the acetone and ATF, she came right off. No problems getting the flange out. She had a nice grove in it and the felt was MIA.

Then I made my big mistake. I tried to remove the seal. My seal puller cut the seal. Now I was committed. For about an hour, I drilled, chiseled, cut and pried at that damn seal. Great, I’m screwed. Now, what am I going to do? At 9:00, I surrendered.

Today, I was back at it. Drilling, hammering, prying, chiseling and cursing. One broken screwdriver, one broken needle nose plier, one broken drill bit, two more hours and a partial loss of my sanity, it came out! That ranked high on the pain in the ass list for my 40 years of tinkering on cars.

A little cleaning up of some gouges and errant drill bit marks and she was ready for reassembly. Repeat the sealing process. No problems.

I got a nice little workout pumping nearly a gallon of GL-1 back in there. This old girl better start showing some love. This is the third time in 9 months that that I have owned her that she has gotten a fluid change.

Everything is back together. No leaks. Shop is cleaned up. It is nearly 6:00. Time for a test drive. I take her around the corner and come back. On the return trip, I see a nice fluid trail leading home. Damn it! I pull onto my street and there is a puddle in the middle of the street like someone threw up and then drooled a stream for another 15 feet. Oh, what the hell!. I could not have screwed it up that bad.

I pull up to the house, shut her down and take a peak underneath. Nothing pouring from the transfer case. I look in the street and it is a puddle and trail of nice clean oil. What the….? Damn it, I do not want to do this again. I look under again and up a bit and see a couple drips coming from the engine. I open the hood and there is the problem. I cleaned the air filter and replaced the oil. I did not seat it correctly and it came apart dumping a fresh quart of oil in the street. Well, that could have been a hell of a lot worse. Replace the oil, seat it properly and it is off for a test drive. I need a cup of coffee. I notice a drip out of the rear. I’m hoping it is just the seal getting seated. I’m not doing this again. I hope it holds.

I’m on my third beer now. I think I will take a little break before I tackle the next 2A project. I’m sure this memory will fade and be replaced by the fun of replacing the front and rear axel yoke seals. They drip, drip, drip.

Micah

1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06
Copyright ©2001-2022 Web Wiz Ltd.