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What did you do on your jeep today? - June 2018

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Spinnas View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spinnas Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2018 at 6:12pm
Finally did a couple stitches inside the tub to hold the driver rear of the tub back on, to replace the bungee cord I installed upon purchase of the Jeep to keep it from flying off on he trailer. It worked to enjoy some weekend cruises, but finally had enough of the banging and clanking. Missed taking before pics but I’d say the corner was 1” away from the floor and about 1.5” lower than where it should be. Much better now and drinking an iced tea at a cafe on a little drive.






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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2018 at 9:37pm
'48 CJ2A/192948
'15 Wrangler Rubicon

Mark G.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2018 at 9:40pm
So...it's exactly 5.5 inches from the top of the tub, and 9 inches to the center of the back hole, so I think it will be ok. Probably just the way I took the first picture made it look too low. Thanks again! Always good to have a new set of eyes on my work to keep me in line...
'48 CJ2A/192948
'15 Wrangler Rubicon

Mark G.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bufordjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2018 at 10:19pm
Put the transmission back in a '46 & installed the throw out bearing fork once installed.  Appreciate the suggestions on this forum -  tranny jack, electrical tape (thanks Oilleaker), guide bolts. Once the mating splines were aligned and the weight was off the guide bolts, slide right in.  No longer fearing clutch, transmission and transfer case repair with the body on.  Thanks everyone!
Tomorrow the TC...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 June 2018 at 11:51pm
Added a "mini-jerry can" to her.  Used an aluminum bottle and added a vent to the top.  .19g should be about 2 miles.  I only drive in the city so that's plenty to get to a gas station if she starts stuttering.  The gauge is way off.  I'll keep a stick as well, but good to have a standby.  I ran her dry the other day, luckily I reached my destination and rolled into the driveway - lol







I think it looks good.  Of course someone's going to think I have a nitrous-powered L-134.  I'm going to lock the can to the seat so it can't be easily swiped or pulled out.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2018 at 12:19am
[QUOTE=Bufordjeep]Put the transmission back in a '46 & installed the throw out bearing fork once installed.  Appreciate the suggestions on this forum -  tranny jack, electrical tape (thanks Oilleaker), guide bolts. Once the mating splines were aligned and the weight was off the guide bolts, slide right in.  No longer fearing clutch, transmission and transfer case repair with the body on.  Thanks everyone!
Tomorrow the TC...
[/QUfOTE]

What is the electrical tape for?
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2018 at 1:32am
Originally posted by usmcpmi usmcpmi wrote:

Probably just the way I took the first picture made it look too low.


That's probably it.  I had to take mine off because of all the rust behind it so I don't normally see one in its correct position.


There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2018 at 1:56am
I think that's what happened with the PO. The tire carrier rusted out and the bolts pulled through. So he covered it up. I cut it all apart, built new hat channel and welded it in with spacers. It should hold the carrier with no problems now. 
'48 CJ2A/192948
'15 Wrangler Rubicon

Mark G.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2018 at 2:01am
Originally posted by usmcpmi usmcpmi wrote:

It should hold the carrier with no problems now. 


Keep the spare from flopping around and it will.
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2018 at 2:32am
I was thinking of filling it with helium to make it lighter...😆
'48 CJ2A/192948
'15 Wrangler Rubicon

Mark G.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2018 at 5:04am

What did I do today? Well, I got stranded.

 

It started off simple enough.

When I got her back in October ’17, it had sat for over 20 years. There was a lot of rust and sediment in the block. One freeze plug rusted out. I replaced it and flushed the block as well as I could. Then filled her with fresh antifreeze.

A couple weeks back, I replaced the motor mounts and the fuel pump. As I jacked the engine up, the radiator hose pulled free and dumped rusty antifreeze out. I was surprised at how bad it looked.

Last week, I replaced the transfer case seals. That turned into two days of hell. I decided, if I did anything on her this week, it would be simple. I needed a break but there is still a list of things to be done.

So, this morning, I drained and refilled the radiator. I wanted to flush her out some more. So, I figured I would take her for a drive. Once she cooled back down, I would drain it again. While it cooled, I had projects around the house to do.

So, with no ball cap on my bald head and flip flops on my feet, I take her for a spin. I get about a mile and a half from the house. Instead of turning around, I decide to do some off roading. I drive up this rocky dirt road to the top of the hill. I turn back around and head down. I’m pounding her around pretty decently. It’s a Jeep, what the hell. Halfway down, she dies. I pop her in neutral and try to get her going as I coast down the hill. She cranks but no fire. That’s not good. Well, I keep on coasting as I pound her way down the dirt road. I get to the pavement and she slows as we come up a little hill. If I can get past this, I have a steep hill to go down. She slows to a crawl but makes it over the crest. Now, it is downhill for about ¼ of a mile. I get to the next turn and I know she is not going to go much further. I pull into a side street.

I pop the hood. My gas tank has always been a problem. There is still some rust in there. I can see quite a bit in the fuel pump glass bowl. I can’t get the nut loose to clean it out. I try a few cranks and nothing. Well this sucks! I start walking. Old flip flops and no hat. Great. At least I brought my phone.

About ¼ mile from the house, a neighbor picks me up. We head back to my place to pick up a tow line. We drag her back about a mile.

So, I figure she is not getting any fuel. Not sure if a line is plugged, the new pump is dead or the filters are just plugged. I pull the bowl apart and clean the screen. I have a second filter, I pull that and there is rust in there too. I pull all the lines apart in a futile attempt to re-plumb it. I don’t have all the parts to do it the way I want. So, everything goes back together. I check the carb screen and that is full of junk too. That’s got to fix it. Crank her over and nothing. Hmmm.

A neighbor comes over and helps me do a spark test. Nothing. That’s interesting. I pull the cap and all looks good. Then I see it. With all the pounding going down that hill, the old wire to the distributor broke off. I rewired the entire Jeep several months ago, except that one wire.

So, that is what I did today.

1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wadoyado Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2018 at 11:03am
Hey Steelyard Blues, Your story reminded me of something I read on this form,about Joe DeYoung(pretty sure His bro said), "90% of all fuel problems are electrical" and it's usually when you change or suspect the fuel system. Joe W

Edited by wadoyado - 03 June 2018 at 11:05am
"It's unbelievable how much you don't know about the jeep you've been driving all your life" (Mickey Mantle paraphrase)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bufordjeep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 June 2018 at 11:27am
The tape was used to stabilize the throw out bearing fork when installing.  The bell housing access hole is only large enough to get one hand on the fork (barely).  It also helps to retrieve the part should it slip.  Worked great.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clayvt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 June 2018 at 1:13pm
last weekend I went out to the desert and noticed I didn’t have any brake lights. Confirmed it was the brake light switch with my continuity tester and yesterday replaced the switch. I’m in the process of running the fuel tank to empty so I can put 5 gallons in so I can finally adjust the “adjustable” fuel gauge. It reads empty when there are still 5-6 gallons in it. 
Also going to finish rebuilding my fathers transfer case for his ‘52 3a. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2018 at 1:41am
I replaced a seized up C shackle at RR leaf spring. Had the part on the shelf- which was nice. Working on some sloppy TC shifters now. 
47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A
64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon
If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote usmcpmi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2018 at 3:09am
So today I put the rear axle up on the stand and gave it a good cleaning. Then pulled the diff cover and let it drain out all the goo inside. Then pulled the brake drums and brake assemblies off. Then last, pulled the pinion yoke and seal. Did some more cleaning and found both drums are cracked right at the key way. So I'm going to need a pair of drums. It seems like the spider gears are really loose...is there a spec to check them? MG
'48 CJ2A/192948
'15 Wrangler Rubicon

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2018 at 3:50am
Originally posted by usmcpmi usmcpmi wrote:

Did some more cleaning and found both drums are cracked right at the key way.


You mean the hubs are cracked.  Some people (named Bubba-the-previous-owner) shouldn't have tried to reassemble things without a picture.  And it's not even hard to figure out how the keys should go...  Confused


Edited by Ol' Unreliable - 06 June 2018 at 3:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 June 2018 at 1:16pm
Originally posted by usmcpmi usmcpmi wrote:

So today I put the rear axle up on the stand and gave it a good cleaning. Then pulled the diff cover and let it drain out all the goo inside. Then pulled the brake drums and brake assemblies off. Then last, pulled the pinion yoke and seal. Did some more cleaning and found both drums are cracked right at the key way. So I'm going to need a pair of drums. It seems like the spider gears are really loose...is there a spec to check them? MG
The key should be inserted after the hub/drum assembly has been put on the axle shaft. The key should be inserted with the taper facing the axle shaft and the taper goes in first. your bubba PO didn't do you any favors.

The differential gears don't have a spec, but look for wear on the differential cross shaft and the thrust washers behind each of the diff. gears and side gears. There should be no evidence of galling on the cross shaft or the interior of the diff. gears.

If the "goo" that came out of the housing looked like thin chocolate cake batter, then that means that there was water contamination in the housing. Be sure to flush out all of the goo. Depending on how bad the goo was, an examination of the pinion and differential bearings might be required. There are several things to keep in mind if you disassemble the pinion and differential:

Always insure that the differential bearing caps go back in exactly the same side and orientation as they were removed. They should be marked from the factory with a letter on the cap and the same letter on the housing with the letter facing upright on one cap and the letter sideways on the other cap. If you can't find the factory markings, the mark the caps in such a way that they can be installed like they were when you removed them.

When removing the differential carrier and ring gear, take care to keep the bearing cups (some people call them races) on the side that they came from. A good way to keep them from being mixed up is to put a loop of mechanics wire on the driver's side cup. If the bearings and cup are to be replaced always put the same shims back exactly as they were upon disassembly. This should give you exactly the same positioning and preload on the bearings as when it was new. (assuming that some prior owner didn't change it somehow).

If you remove the pinion from the housing to check bearing wear and find the pinion bearing and cup worn ALWAYS put the exact shims back where they were. This will put the pinion back at the same depth in the housing as it originally was. Changing the pinion depth will change the
gear running pattern and you do not want that.

The Willys Mechanics Manual will tell you details that I haven't covered and is a good investment for working on the axles and all other components of your rig. Walck's or Kaiser-Willys have repair manuals in stock.

Good luck. Don't hesitate to ask questions here. Most of us on here have done work on our own rigs and will have answers to any concerns you might have.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
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