Bantam T3-C Serial #24011 |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Well, I already have a spare, but I like that idea of a wheel adapter as a backup. I think I will mount the spare in front of the tub on the draw bars but in a way so the bracket can be easily mounted and removed without affecting the trailer. I want to leave access for the tarp hook. I've got some ideas but am going to think about it for a while before I do anything. More ideas/suggestions are welcome. Thanks everyone for all the comments, I appreciated reading them. The trailer project was a lot of work and expense but I am happy with the outcome. Feels good to have saved one of these cool trailers from the scrap yard.
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
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You did a great job on your trailer. Another way you could do for a spare is get an wheel adapter and use your truck spare if ever needed. Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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PackRat
Member Joined: 18 June 2018 Location: Novato, CA Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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After working with the sheet metal and seeing how the floors are always "wavy", I don't think any spare tire should be affixed to the tub. If you can fabricate an "A" frame that sits on the drawbars just in front of the tub so you can still access the tarp hook I think that would be best. Make the "A" frame with extended "feet" so you can use a couple hefty bolts to attach that plate to the drawbars and don't be afraid to use some steel angle-iron for the "A" frame. To that you can weld on a repop WWII or post war spare tire mounting after you torch off most of it to keep the tire in position.
You can assemble the "A" frame with a spare on it and check for where you will drill the holes in the drawbars BEFORE drilling them to insure it will fit right. |
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GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250 Alaskan Camper Bantam T3-C #21170 |
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Mike F
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2018 Location: Longview wa Status: Offline Points: 684 |
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Yea. Makes me want one.
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Thanks for the comments!
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Gil
Member Joined: 29 July 2016 Location: N.B.Canada. Status: Offline Points: 975 |
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Nice looking trailer,congrats well done .
Giles
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1946 cj2a 59108
1998 Jeep Cherokee 2 doors 2016 Jeep Cherokee TrailHawk |
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Rus Curtis
Member Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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Nice!
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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67charger
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2011 Location: Kentucky Status: Offline Points: 1272 |
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Looks good!
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Let the trailer out of the garage today. Picked up a nice piece of plywood to protect the new floor. Have to buy some more olive drab paint. Also installed the new data plate. Looks good. |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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It's done (well a few details yet but 99%). I'm waiting for a new data plate. Need to make a spare tire holder (ideas welcome). Need to get a tarp or make a lid. Pretty happy how it turned out. Here's some pics: Edited by takesiteasy - 28 Oct. 2018 at 2:02am |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Ha! Me too! Thanks for your comment!
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chris insull
Member Joined: 16 May 2016 Location: Chesapeake, VA. Status: Offline Points: 48 |
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Great progress! Looking forward to seeing the finished version!👍
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1971 CJ-5
1946 T3-C S/N 30319 194? T3-C ACM 154291 (SOLD) 1967 Stevens M-416 (SOLD) |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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I did not add extra support. I decided to keep the trailer pretty much original. I will most likely add something like 3/4" plywood in the bed to protect the floor if I am going to put a heavy load in it. Time will tell if that was a good decision. I am super-pleased with the new floor from Midwest Military. It came bare steel oiled to prevent rust. This allowed me to use a high quality epoxy primer on it. The manufacturing quality is excellent and it fit the frame perfectly. Near as I can tell it matches the original floor specs exactly. I haven't seen the floors from MDJuan in person so I can't say how they compare. I did buy replacement tailgate support panels from MDJuan. They needed some rework to fit and the primer is of lower quality than what I am using. The steel gauge may be a bit lighter than the originals. But they did work and the result is probably better than if I had tried to repair the rusted original panels.
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mickeykelley
Member Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 450 |
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Did you end up adding extra support to prevent future bed sagging? Do you know how the bed you got from MW compares to the stuff from Manila?
Edited by mickeykelley - 04 Oct. 2018 at 5:24am |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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We've started painting. The new floor looks great. The frame will be totally coated all sides before re-assembly. This should add significantly to the useful life to the trailer. The fenders and tub will still show their age and past use but all rust everywhere has been removed and replaced with new metal. Hope to finish painting and start reassembly this weekend.A final paint coat will be applied once the trailer is back together. |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Got some new springs- the pair came nicely packed in separate boxes. |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Seems like the approach will be to prime, paint and wire brush/flap brush the areas to be welded. So far, no issues with flash rust. We have a nice heated shop where we can keep things dry. Hope to paint soon but life seems to get in the way all the time.
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PackRat
Member Joined: 18 June 2018 Location: Novato, CA Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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Buy some primer that can be welded through and get the whole sandblasted assembly protected from flash rust! Then you can clean up any blackened steel from the welding and re-prime and paint. Anything that is a bolt-on should get primed right after sandblasting if no repairs are needed. That includes the final color paint you choose. If you clean our the ball socket, don't paint where the ball will ride, a little axel grease will prevent rust in there.
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GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250 Alaskan Camper Bantam T3-C #21170 |
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