Bantam T3-C Serial #24011 |
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mickeykelley
Member Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 450 |
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That's about how my waves are. Debating on whether to spend the money or if the new will just start to wave quickly too. I plan to actually use mine, but no abuse it. I don't think the replacements are substantially any stronger so to avoid waves would need to add more supports.
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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I don't have a good picture of the floor showing the dents. It looked very similar to Canorisa's, with a few small rust holes added. The main supports were very obvious high points with pretty deep dishes between. The floor actually looked pretty good from the top, other than the dents. I originally planned to leave the floor and put in a false hardwood floor over it to level it out. What you can't see is the amount of rust on the underside. I suspected the sandblaster would blow some additional holes in the floor and enlarge the small ones. But my main concern was possible rust on the top of the frame under the floor that I couldn't see and wouldn't be able to treat. I didn't want to put all this work in and have the frame rust out from under the floor. Plus there were some rust holes in the tub at the wall/floor joint that would be hard to patch with the floor in. So we decided to take it out. It wasn't difficult to remove- I suspect it may be harder to put it back together, haha. I agree, the new floor won't be any stronger than the old one. I also plan to eventually use the trailer so I am considering adding some additional cross members for support since it is all taken apart now and would be relatively easy to do.
Edited by takesiteasy - 12 Sep. 2018 at 2:43pm |
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mickeykelley
Member Joined: 26 May 2016 Location: Republic of Texas Status: Offline Points: 450 |
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how did you go about taking it out? Just cut the welds to the frame underneath then run a cutting blade around the inside edge?
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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We cut the welds from inside the tub first which released the walls. Once they were free, we set the walls aside. We ended up leaving a bit of the floor attached to the front wall as it
was tough to get into the corners. Once the walls were off, we could remove
the remaining bit of the floor. Then we flipped the trailer over and cut the floor welds along the frame. We used a 3" cutting wheel on a pneumatic grinder. We needed to do some grinding cleanup on the tailgate area, mainly due to the bubba hinges that had been added. The rest of the frame was pretty clean. I'm glad we did it because the repairs to the frame will be so much easier and the sandblaster will be able to get all the rust off, even on the top which is hidden by the floor. I'll post some photos.
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Here's some pics of the floor (there were some holes which aren't visible in these pics): Edited by takesiteasy - 12 Sep. 2018 at 10:06pm |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Canorisa- I have read your whole build thread- beautiful trailer! Mine will not look like that when it is done. |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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cpt logger- I also plan to use my trailer and I am leaning toward OD green and a flat finish to hide imperfections. I like your comment about using a color that is easy to find in rattle cans so scratches can be repaired easily.
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Note to those following this thread- I updated the earlier post on the serial number with a new photo.
Edited by takesiteasy - 12 Sep. 2018 at 10:41pm |
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canorisa
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2009 Location: PSL, Florida Status: Offline Points: 373 |
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Thank you Sir for the complement. I wanted, at some point, sell the trailer but I can't get out of it what I put into it, so I kept it for now. Everyone who knew about my build, at the time, knew that I was going to sell the trailer but when they found out by how much they all threw a fit, so even though they had a good point I decided to keep the trailer a little bit longer. The trailer sits in an inside storage unit right now collecting dust because I'm no where near the trailer but will soon be out having fun for sure and I can't wait. I look forward to seeing your trailer restoration as you continue and see it finished. Are you going to go with OD Green as it was suggested to you? Do you have any vehicles with OD green on? Most people try to match their pulling vehicle. I ended up not doing that so I went red and can't tell you it was the best choice. After restoration I had the former owner bugging me to sell it back to him, lol. Oh well, right!!! |
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Once a Marine!, Always a Marine!, Semper Fi! - Combat Wounded Vet, Desert Storm/Desert Shield - Persian Gulf 1992
E-mail: canorisa@msn.com 1940's Bantam T3-C |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Canorisa, these projects have to be a labor of love, right? It's fun and gives me something to do. I will never get the dollars out that I put in, and that is with free labor! But at the end of the day, I'll have a nice trailer to use, I will have supported some small businesses along the way and I will have saved a bit of history.That all makes it worthwhile to me. I don't have any OD vehicles- I drive a white Tacoma. My original plan was to go white to match the truck- I did the wheels white. But I am rethinking that- not a practical color for a working trailer. OD seems the most logical choice. Even though it is not factory original, it goes with the military heritage and is very practical from a use and maintenance point of view. It can be easily repainted in the future. So that's my current thinking... Thanks for your comments! |
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PackRat
Member Joined: 18 June 2018 Location: Novato, CA Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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With your new pic, I think the serial number is 24911. I say that because I think I can see the bottom of the last digit looking exactly like the bottom of the easily readable "1" right next to. In fact, if you look at the font we are using right here, the "7" has no bottom bar and the "1" certainly does.
So, my money is on "24911"..... |
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GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250 Alaskan Camper Bantam T3-C #21170 |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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PackRat, kudos to you and your eyesight! I got out my old
magnifying glass and in the setting sun, the last digit turned out to be
clearly a "1". There are a couple small rust spots that in certain
angles make it look like a "7" but on close inspection, it is possible
to see the straight vertical portion of the "1" and then the faint serif
at the bottom. The third digit is definitely a "0". I'm pretty
confident now saying the number is "24011". I
decided to get a better camera (better than my phone, haha) to see if I
could document what it is possible to see inspecting the real thing. I posted what I got below. Looking again at my original pic at the start of this thread, it seems obvious there also. I just jumped to a conclusion too soon. Edited by takesiteasy - 17 Sep. 2018 at 1:34am |
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canorisa
Member Joined: 27 Sep. 2009 Location: PSL, Florida Status: Offline Points: 373 |
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Takeiteasy: Thank you for your comment and I'm sorry if I mislead you one my post. I never meant to imply that I wanted to get the money I put into it from my labor. I knew right of the bat that I would never get that out of the trailer. But the people who saw me restoring this trailer were very...should I say for lack of better words, pushy into having me get out all of my hard labor. I have practically lots and lots of hours spent on this build but I always thought it was something I truly enjoyed doing. Not according to other people as I found out later. But that was back in California. I'm now in Florida and I still might sell the trailer but wish it could go to someone who might appreciate it very much and not butcher it but I know that's not my call. So, my apologies if that came out the wrong way. Trust me, I have more than fun at restoring these little trailers and I do it for the fun of it and not take myself that much serious. |
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Once a Marine!, Always a Marine!, Semper Fi! - Combat Wounded Vet, Desert Storm/Desert Shield - Persian Gulf 1992
E-mail: canorisa@msn.com 1940's Bantam T3-C |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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Canorisa, Thanks for your comment. We're on the same page.
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Unkamonkey
Member Joined: 23 Mar. 2016 Location: Greeley CO Status: Offline Points: 2093 |
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If you enjoyed it, you got value from it. I can't say that I really enjoyed doing my 3B but I feel that I did quite well so I am happy. Then again the oldest restoration I helped a guy with was a 1906 Buick. I got nothing but I knew that I helped get an old car on the road. |
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uncamonkey
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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So I got my trailer parts back from the sandblaster today. Everything looks good except discovered a cracked top leaf spring in one pack- bummer! I also discovered they are not a matched set, so one side or the other has already been replaced. I'm thinking I need to replace the springs. I am looking for advice on where to find a replacement set of springs. These springs have 5 leafs. I have found cj2a front spring packs available with 8, 9 and 10 leafs but nothing with 5 leafs. It seems the trailers originally had the cj2a springs. Is it acceptable to replace the 5 leaf with 8 leaf? Will they be too stiff? Anybody got a recommendation? Parts all cleaned up: Here's a closeup pic of the broken leaf- it's the top (longest) one: |
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PackRat
Member Joined: 18 June 2018 Location: Novato, CA Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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My trailer #21170 also has five leaves and mine has a broken #4 leaf on one of them. It only added to the uneven bouncing the trailer did as the spring load is uneven. The Bantam Trailer list does not indicate any reported spring information and pics show eight and ten leaves as well as the five we have which are beefier to start with.
I don't know if you can find any #1 leaves but if you replace that whole spring pack with another 5-leaf spring pack, I would really be interested in that #4 in the one you pictured above. FYI...the eight leaf springs as used on WWII/CJ2As were rated for much more weight than the trailer can carry. The trailer is rated for 1050 lbs I think with any of the various spring packs and the eight leaf types were replaced in late 1944 to beef up the suspension on the WWII trailers so I think you could use the eight or ten leaf springs or if you find another orphan 5-leaf you could make one out of two. Let me know what you end up doing as I will be interested in that #4 in the 5-leaf spring pack in your photo if it becomes available! |
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GPW-17963 4/24/42
Ford F-250 Alaskan Camper Bantam T3-C #21170 |
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takesiteasy
Member Joined: 30 June 2018 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 114 |
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I'm guessing either of us would have to find an intact spring and part it out. Maybe we could share the cost of buying one good spring and we could each get what we need. I am planning to keep the original springs so that I can put them back on if I can fix the broken leaf. I will keep my eyes open and let you know if I find one.
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