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Death Wobble - choices
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DonH View Drop Down
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Joined: 13 Feb. 2006
Location: Central Massachusetts USA
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Points: 132 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DonH Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2018 at 8:20pm
On my jeep the wobble was was caused by not having the specified pre-load on the knuckle which is a lot tighter than you would think. Use new shims and a scale to set the pre-load to specs, expect to remove the caps several times until you get the right shim combination. Make sure to toe is set correctly and the wheels are balanced.

With regard to wandering we have to lower our expectations. One inch of free play at the steering wheel is remarkably tight. Back in the day state inspections allowed for several inches depending on the diameter of the steering wheel. The bell crank shaft must be tight in its socket and the bell crank must be tight on the shaft requiring force to move it. The steering linkage ball joints should be tight and the steering gear box should be adjusted with the steering wheel straight. The drag link ends should be tight enough to have no free play but not so tight as to not move easily. Having done that you will have to pay more attention to steering than we are used to.

DonH
1946CJ2A
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bigdaddy13 View Drop Down
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Points: 213 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigdaddy13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2018 at 9:17pm
Originally posted by athawk11 athawk11 wrote:

Originally posted by bigdaddy13 bigdaddy13 wrote:



3. I still need to dig into the kingpin bearings, but I reconfirmed that the tie rod ends seem fairly healthy/snug.



<p ="msonormal"="">This isn’t fool proof, but you can jack a wheel off the
ground, then pull/push on the top, then bottom of the wheel/tire.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes">  </span>If you have any significant in and out
movement, you’ll want to remove the king pin and inspect the bearings more
closely.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes">  </span>The only other thing that would
cause movement when pulling/pushing on the wheel like this would be the actual
wheel bearing.<span style="mso-spacerun:yes">  </span>If the preload isn’t set
right, or the wheel bearings are shot, you may feel some looseness, but you’ll be
able to feel/see this difference inside the hub if you remove your drive
flanges or locking hubs, if so equipped.




My dad, who is an excellent mechanic, used a couple guides (Moses ludel) and one other to check his method and torque figures while repacking and preloading them. Pretty confident, having seen them myself, that I can exclude those for now.

Thanks for the info on the kingpin bearings, I'll do that check next.
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bigdaddy13 View Drop Down
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Points: 213 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigdaddy13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2018 at 9:21pm
Originally posted by cal.bar cal.bar wrote:

Bell crank drag link and steering rod slop will not usually cause death wobble. As others have posted before it's almost certainly inside your axles


Got it. thanks for the perspective.
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Stev View Drop Down
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Points: 2384 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2018 at 9:48pm
Death Wobble -

Lots of good ideas in this thread.  What I have done to check the front end is to put the front of the Jeep up on Jack stands so that the jack stands are supporting the frame - while letting the front springs sag down so the front tires are still off of the ground.  Then take each of the wheels and give them a three axis shake (up down, side to side front and front to back) to see if something is lose or just shot after 70 years.  Also have an assistant turn the steering wheel (rock it) back and forth while you look for play.

You might find that:
- the spring bushings are shot
- spring perches are loose or perhaps one is
- the king pin races mounting surface in the DANA 25 are stretched
- the king pin bearings are shot
- there is a spindle that is not bolted up tight
-and so on.




Edited by Stev - 13 July 2018 at 3:26am
Stev
1946 CJ2A Trail Jeep (The Saint), 1948 CJ2A Lefty Restored
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LesBerg View Drop Down
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Points: 1554 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2018 at 10:43pm
Stev is spot on. Every bushing, bearing, ball joint, nut and bolt between the frame and the tire needs to be tight, serviceable, and properly lubricated for the steering to be right.

Pictures to come...
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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LesBerg View Drop Down
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Points: 1554 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LesBerg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 July 2018 at 4:24am
Here's that steering brace. I'm not keen on attaching it to the bolt that ties into the bottom of the radiator, though.

Next time the grill is off, I'm going to drill a hole through the crossmember and weld in a grade 8 decapitated bolt.

Yes, I popped the zerk off the bellcrank. It's getting replaced this weekend. If there's no clearance for one in the usual location, I'll drill and tap the other side.

For those paying extra close attention, yes. My fan sticks down well below the radiator. I'm finishing up a fan shroud for it. Yep that the lower radiator hose below and behind the balancer. Big smile


Edited by LesBerg - 19 July 2018 at 4:26am
1948 CJ2A 157713 24" Stretch "Old Ironsides"
1st Armored Div
6th Infantry Reg
3rd Infantry Bn
Headquarters Company #161

rubigo in quo speramus - "In Rust we Trust"
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Bill2A View Drop Down
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2018
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Points: 517 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2018 at 1:53am
I had heard of a steering brace.
Now, I've seen one.
I like it.
Might like it better attatched to the cross member. Wink
1946 CJ2A 14098
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