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Targhee: a Moab/Rubicon flatfender build

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jbjeeps View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Sep. 2018 at 4:59am
The rear axle arrived today, a couple days earlier than anticipated. D44, 30 spline, flanged from a '70-71 CJ. 

The parts for the front axle should be here in a day or two so we may be able to start working on it this weekend.  We'll order the parts for the rear axle after we get a chance to look it over.


1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2018 at 1:42pm
A Question about Axles?

I decided to buy these axles for the front.  The front axle was a "spring over" at some point in the past so I made the assumption that it probably had big tires and the axles may have been overworked. 


So now I'm thinking about the rear axle.  I have no information of it's previous use.  I'd sure like to use the current axles if possible and save that $$ for other project expenses. 

But, I'll buy new axles if the current ones pose a serious reliability risk.

Anyone have an opinion?  Are the stock 30 spline axles stout enough that I could risk using them instead of buying new ones? 

I'll be putting a Yukon Grizzly locker with 5.38 gears in the axle.

I know there are no guarantees, just looking for some conversation on this topic.  Thanks!  Jack
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2018 at 4:22pm
Both your front and the rear axles  axles in original stock condition should easily hold up to a V-6 if not abused.
Does your flanged D44 offset rear have 3.73 or a 4.89 ratio ?

Factory 4.89 gear sets are an excellent off road ratio for most.
But 5.38's will be better if you plan on a Willys 134 engine.
DS never put 5.38's in a D30; so the front will need be aftermarket if installing 5.38 gears.

You can look at your 30 spline shafts and easily determine if the splines were ever twisted.
Also note the amount of visible wear on the splines themselves....
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep. 2018 at 5:30pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Both your front and the rear axles  axles in original stock condition should easily hold up to a V-6 if not abused.
Does your flanged D44 offset rear have 3.73 or a 4.89 ratio ?

Factory 4.89 gear sets are an excellent off road ratio for most.
But 5.38's will be better if you plan on a Willys 134 engine.
DS never put 5.38's in a D30; so the front will need be aftermarket if installing 5.38 gears.

You can look at your 30 spline shafts and easily determine if the splines were ever twisted.
Also note the amount of visible wear on the splines themselves....

Oldtime, thanks for the good reply.  That's the kind of info I was looking for.

The D44 currently has 4.89 gears, still planning to use the L134, so both axles will be 5.38

I've ordered the Yukon YG D30-538 ring and pinion for the front axle.
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2018 at 2:57am
Parts pile is growing.  With some luck we may get to do some actual work on something this weekend.

1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2018 at 4:01pm
Springs

I have been watching the videos to see how different Jeeps react on the trails, reading many different threads, and yes, waking up in the middle of the night wondering what I'm going to do for springs.

Then, this morning, I read these comments by Rick G. from October 2017, and now I THINK I have a plan:

Originally posted by Wilson49CJ2a Wilson49CJ2a wrote:

Is there a recommended ~2" lift kit & source for these jeeps? I've found a rancho kit and superlift kit but was hoping for some real world feedback on how they ride/flex/hold up. Was wondering about a replacement OEM pack with a shackle lift.

I was initially planning high steer knuckles for the D30 and a Saginaw conversion, but that was when I was thinking about a larger lift. Trying to understand what the 2" springs will do to the geometry. Any tips and experiences would be greatly appreciated. 

I'll chime in here with real world experience...

I bought a turn-key aftermarket 3.5" leaf spring lift kit about 5 years ago. They are Black Diamond.  I added some Daystar, 1/2" lift, H shackles to round out my suspension upgrade.  I have about 4" of overall lift.  I'm running 34" narrow super swampers, so I kinda need that much lift with these tires.  Problem is the springs do not bend or flex under the light weight of a Willys flatfender. 

After much research and talk with local spring makers, I found out that the commercial, mass produced leaf springs are made of a much thicker spring steel (rather than multiple thin ones) to cut manufacturing costs.  However, fewer, but thicker springs means no flex for our type application.  All my jeeping buddies here on the page, as well as my videos, can attest to the fact that ol' Gus doesn't flex.  None. Zero.  Pretty scary sometimes.  Hopefully, I will be working with a local spring maker this winter to cure my spring problems.  Most likely, a complete set of custom springs.

I highly advise going to a local leaf spring maker, tell him what you want to accomplish, show him your jeep, and let him build a set of springs for you.  I would NOT purchase a set of commercial leaf springs ever again, because it isn't "one size fits all" for the flatfenders.  It cost me a ton of money to find this out.

As far as the geometry goes, I don't have a problem with the 4" lift and original D25.  I built a custom steering system based on the saginaw box up front with 1" heavy wall pipe for the tie rod and drag link.  I used a straight pitman arm rather than a "drop" and everything is still parallel.  No issues with it so far.

HTH,
Rick

Thanks Rick, just the info I needed!

Here's what I THINK I'm going to do.  As always, I'll be glad to hear comments or recommendations.

1. Put the D30 and D44 axles on the current springs.
2. Put the wheels and tires I'm going to use on. At this point I'm planning on 34" Narrow Super Swampers on stock 5" wheels,  but that could change.
3. Put in an engine.
4. Put the tub back on.
5. Take the Jeep over to Boise Spring Works in Boise and talk to them about building a set of springs made from thin leaves.
6. I want four springs the length of the stock rear 2A springs, 42", we'll modify the front frame to accommodate the longer front springs. I'm thinking I'll keep the front axle in it's original position.

So, what do you all think?  Does this sound like a good way to go? TIA for all good comments and/or suggestions.  Jack


Edited by jbjeeps - 20 Sep. 2018 at 4:10pm
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 2:05am
Jack, looks like most every one is at the FCT. 
I'll  try and keep this conversation going.  Ha Ha!

Good suspension alone certainly will not make nor break the Jeep.
Many jeeps with relatively poor suspension systems do perform rather well via other apparently more important features.

That said, a good suspension system can certainly smooth the ride and thereby put much less stress upon the frame. 
Beyond that some increase of traction can be had by way of more tire contact upon the ground.

Myself, I am an advocate of multiple thin leaves making up the spring pack.
having many thin leaves makes for a decrease of fatigue and an increase toward durability.
In fact I think these jeeps ride and handle rather nicely when sporting correctly rebuilt original Mather spring packs.

That said the spring load is important in that it must attain full flex under normal payload.
And so I consider it very important to take full advantage of the stock travel.
In other words the axle tube needs to stuff fully upward until it hits the axle bumper.
Many stockish Jeep springs do not make full use of the standard  travel.
They simply do not travel from full droop to full stuff.
As you know the axle bumper normally limits the stuff and the shocks typically limit the droop.

Except for increasing of the standard tire diameter I am not a fan of lifting the Jeep any higher from standard.
Note that Grampa's jeep does rather well at stock ride height.

Yes IMHO 34" NSS is certainly pushing the limits for a flatty.
But even at stock ride height with rear axle at full stuff the 34" NSS tires do not rub the top of the wheel house.
They will clear by at least 1" with stock suspension at full stuff. 
So that  alone implies no need to increase body  lift.

However the 34" NSS tires will certainly rub on the rear inner fender panels when stuffed upward because of the articulation
There is no easy cure for that sidewall contact excepting a change of axle width or wheel set.
This basically amounts to a small increase of  track width.
If you go any wider on track width then the 34" tire gets into the 31" wheel well diameter.

Concerning spring length you might consider running the stock CJ-5 spring lengths.
46-1/8" at rear and 39-5/8" at front.
No need to change the OAL of the flatty frame.
Just move the shackle brackets out to the very end of the frame rails.
And relocate the spring pivot bracket holes an equal distance the other way.
That way the wheelbase remains constant with no change to the standard propeller shafts.
And stock type springs having no offset will be far easier to source and replace if need be.

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 2:40am
Lowering your air pressure will also improve your ride. A friends son drove his F350 out to Moab with 85 lbs in his tires. He complained about the rough ride. "Well that is what it says on the side wall". No, Daniel, that is the maximum inflation pressure you can inflate it to. Look on your door or the door pillar, It will tell you what to run. I handed him a gauge and told him to let at least 30 PSI out of his tires. He said that it rode much better after that.
A member read that I used to do tires. He wanted me to talk about them. I just did a small bit.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 2:17pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

Jack, looks like most every one is at the FCT. 
I'll  try and keep this conversation going.  Ha Ha!



Myself, I am an advocate of multiple thin leaves making up the spring pack.
having many thin leaves makes for a decrease of fatigue and an increase toward durability.
In fact I think these jeeps ride and handle rather nicely when sporting correctly rebuilt original Mather spring packs.



Concerning spring length you might consider running the stock CJ-5 spring lengths.
46-1/8" at rear and 39-5/8" at front.
No need to change the OAL of the flatty frame.
Just move the shackle brackets out to the very end of the frame rails.
And relocate the spring pivot bracket holes an equal distance the other way.
That way the wheelbase remains constant with no change to the standard propeller shafts.
And stock type springs having no offset will be far easier to source and replace if need be.


Ha! I hope those guys are having a good time at FCT.  We've got some nice colors around here, I might go out this weekend and do my own FCT.

Thank you for that great reply. 

Your recommendation to use CJ5 length springs makes good sense to me.  I like not having to extend the frame length and using stock length propeller shafts. 

Are there any CJ5 springs currently on the market that would work, or should I still consider going to a spring shop to have some built? 

Edit:  Or, you mentioned correctly rebuilt Mather spring packs, maybe I should keep an eye out for some of them. How do I identify them?


Edited by jbjeeps - 21 Sep. 2018 at 3:01pm
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 3:00pm
Hey Jack,
I can't vouch for fit or quality, but I buy tons of stuff from Walks and they always treat me right. Also don't know how the price compares to what your spring shop could do for you.


Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 3:09pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Hey Jack,
I can't vouch for fit or quality, but I buy tons of stuff from Walks and they always treat me right. Also don't know how the price compares to what your spring shop could do for you.



Stan,

Thanks for mentioning Walcks, I've been buying from them for years.  Just talked to Carl yesterday and ordered a replacement front cross member for the frame. 

If current springs on the market would work, I'd like to go that way, or find a set of Mather springs to rebuild.  If I have to take Targhee over to Boise and have them do the work I'm sure it'll cost quite a bit more. Not to mention travel expenses.  
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 4:12pm
Originally posted by Unkamonkey Unkamonkey wrote:

Lowering your air pressure will also improve your ride. A friends son drove his F350 out to Moab with 85 lbs in his tires. He complained about the rough ride. "Well that is what it says on the side wall".

That's hilarious! Must have felt like a buckboard. You surely helped him out with your advice.  
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 4:16pm
Mathers were rather common on the 80" wheelbase flatties. 
So those will be 42" at rear and 36-1/4" up front.
They are the original springs having the  trapezoid  cross section.
I did  a write up a few years back on rebuilding them and can possibly find that post if your interested.

If you want longer springs then the stock length CJ-5/6 springs can be a good fit with some frame bracket work.
The CJ-5's used some Mathers but most I've seen were Eaton springs. 
Overall I don't like the Eaton springs. 
I think they were over hardened to the point of being brittle as in "CRACK".
Further more the Eatons center channel always collects water thereby allowing the spring to quickly rust away.
On the plus side the Eatons typically were of desirable 2 stage design.

The CJ-5 rear spring assemblies will be 4-1/8" longer than a flatty at 42".
So you move the rear shackle bracket rear ward about 2-1/16". 
Move the rear pivot bracket hole toward center another 2-1/16".

The CJ-5 front spring assemblies will be 3-3/8" longer than a flatty at 36-1/4"".
So you move the front shackle bracket foreward about 1-11/16"". 
Move the front pivot bracket hole toward center another 1-11/16"".
Be sure to check the frame and all spring brackets for square.

If you go with CJ-5 springs you will also want CJ-5 length shocks.

Here's is a link to ECJ-5 springs.
Let us know what you discover from that.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nivrat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 4:28pm
I can echo Oldtime's sentiments regarding using CJ5 springs. The extra length adds to both flex and ride, IMHO.
Check out a cool vid that Jpet did last year on the FFFR in Moab.


If you go to about the 17 minute mark you will see my Jeep with CJ5 springs flexing a bit.
The one thing I did different though is that I left the front spring pivot in the stock location and allowed the extra length of the front spring to provide around a 1-2" stretch, moving the axle forward by that amount. I knew I was going to mount a power steering box and change the front bumper anyway so it worked out well.
FWIW,
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 4:46pm
Nivrat,  
Are you running with standard front propeller shaft?
And did the front stretch  create any problems  with propeller shaft length ?

What brand of CJ5 springs did you go with ?
I'm guessing Skyjackers or BDS to be the best aftermarket springs for a CJ-5.

Your Jeep looks great !
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nivrat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2018 at 11:16pm
Ken,
No I had to modify the driveshafts since I'm running an even fire Buick V6 with an SM420/D18.
I don't recall my front shaft length but if I remember correctly my rear driveshaft is around 17" and nearly flat. I used factory early CJ5 springs, mainly because I had some laying around. Aftermarket springs have thicker leaves to maintain the arch that they put in them. I was looking for a little longer spring with more leaves that were thinner, and I did't want a lifted spring. I also used CJ5 body mount bushings instead of the little flat rubber pieces that were common in the Willys Jeeps. They are 1" thick and create a bit of body lift over the stock pieces. With the stock springs and the body mount bushings I'm able to run 33" tires on 8" rims.
Thanks for the kind wordsSmile

Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 1:43am
Originally posted by nivrat nivrat wrote:

I can echo Oldtime's sentiments regarding using CJ5 springs. The extra length adds to both flex and ride, IMHO.
Check out a cool vid that Jpet did last year on the FFFR in Moab.
Mike

Mike, very cool video, thanks for sharing it!  Good looking Jeep with nice suspension travel. 

You and Oldtime are making my life a whole lot easier these days! Wink  I really like what you've both said about the CJ5 springs.  It looks like that's what I'll be doing. I can see that stock spring packs will work but I may contact some of the spring makers to see if they can make up some springs with thinner leaves. 
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbjeeps Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep. 2018 at 1:53am
Did some actual work today!

My good friend Eric is my mentor, spiritual adviser and tool guy extraordinaire on this build.  We took the D30 over to his place today (a good 75 yards across and down the street from my house) and made great progress on it.  Still have to do the ball joints and brakes but I'm pleased with what we got done today.

Went with Nitro chomoloy axles, the stock axles and ujoints looked okay, but I feel better with the new ones in there.  The stock ones will make good spares.

P.S. No, I'm not doing a spring over, previous owner did that. 





Edited by jbjeeps - 22 Sep. 2018 at 2:15am
1970 CJ5 Dauntless, 4.88 (His)
1948 CJ2A Dauntless, 3.54 (Hers)
1948 CJ2A "Targhee", yup, still under construction but getting closer
Instagram: old_money_2a
             
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