New Member with a ‘48 Luzon Red junker |
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Greaser007
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
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Posted: 11 June 2019 at 4:46am |
Nice "salad" Andy !
It is good to see that you are back on the project. And I you're probably smiling big time just knowing that you probably saved that willys from the recycler. I'm keeping my drawbar hitch which needs mucho attention, because I had one on my first '46 and with the little stinger ball mount. The stinger acted as a skid on rock at the bottom of a descent, to protect my rear-mounted spare. they're cool. Your front bumper turned out great after a few "minutes" of attention. haha ( wish I would have purchased stock in Krylon Paints years ago ) hahaha Edited by Greaser007 - 11 June 2019 at 5:04am |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Has nothing to do with the grill what so ever. I'm keeping mine as an anchor for a Winch mount.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Mark,
Did the cj5 center grill mount work with your setup or did you end up making something different? Kind of a small thing but it would be easier to cut off now if it needs to come off. It seems way overbuilt compared with the flatty center mount but I imagine there is a good bit more weight on the front sheet metal for a cj5
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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I used the CJ5 right motor mount. Completely removed the Left and welded a 2A Left in its place properly aligned for a 2A engine front plate.but in my case the left had already been cobbled up in the 50's when the frame was swapped in to this jeep.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Copy, I think my rear crossmember will end up sharing some space with the spring hangers. How exactly that works out I’m just going to wait and see how things fall together. Did you end up fabricating the lower half of your engine mounts? I’m actually working on that right now and yours look nearly exactly like what I’m making. I used the 48 upper half’s and made the lower half’s out of flat 10ga copying the stock parts and accommodating the thicker frame. Should be finishing them up this evening or tomorrow morning. The rear receiver setup is nice, I’ve tossed that idea around as I have a few receiver hitches collecting rust at the farm. The only thing keeping me from doing it is the Jeep came with a complete drawbar, mount and still has its straps. Even though it hangs low and will be a liability off-road I’m thinking about mounting it just to keep with the theme of the project. Grrr, already planning out the next one...
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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The Riser is the section of the floor of the Tub where it changed height approx. 4 7/8" behind the fuel tank and at the back edge of the tool box. The riser mounting hole on the CJ-5 frame is about 2" in front of the leading edge of the rear shock mounts. So about 15" towards the front of where you are pointing. Its about 5/8" D and right in the top of the frame rail. Your Body mounts should be straight across from these holes. As to the rear bracing that I can not help you with as I tore all of that out as I went with a 2" receiver type mount and a 2X4 tubular rear cross member. You will have to just cut to fit I think. OH and you are going to have a problem with your rear shackle mounts. To fit the CJ-5 Springs the pivot hole on the Shackle mounts ends up just about directly below the leading edge of the Rear Cross member you can kind of see this here All the suspension pieces on my CHUG are DIY so yu will have to come up with something that works for you. I can tell you the rear Shackle pivots is exactly 44" from the Spring hangers bolt hole center to center. I made a pair of 1/8" x 1" aluminum jigs with the holes 44" apart to make sure I got them accurate. If you read through my Project thread. I show a lot of this in photos I can't access right now. Look for the CHUG A LUG thread. |
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Mark,
Thank you for the reply, you confirmed a good amount of assumptions/guesses that I had about mounts, particularly the front fenders. One thing I had not realized until you mentioned it is where the grille mounts are going to be placed on the frame. I thought they may end up sharing a mount hole with the shock bracket, but I’m glad that instead they mount close together. I saved every salvageable bracket off the old frame and the new one. Even bumper brackets and brake master brackets (the frame is a v6 frame and didn’t have the normal bracket) cleaned and straitened them all and I’m using as many as I can. I would have saved the tubular crossmember if I could have but it was a goner so I’m using the cj5 front u shape crossmember and adding the necessary brackets for the rad and grille. I made a mistake and didn’t get the dimension for the rear frame trim prior to trashing the old frame. Any chance you can pass me the dimension? Also, is the river I’m pointing to in the picture the riser that you refer to in your post? Thank you for your help, I know a lot of folks are turned off by a Jeep salad, but since the value of this one is negligible to begin with and it was bound for the scrapper I Hope most are supportive of it getting to live a bit longer. |
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Mark W.
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 09 Nov. 2014 Location: Silverton, OR Status: Offline Points: 7982 |
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Andy I have this exact same frame to Tub swap I can help you out with most anything you need as my Chassis is still not under the tub. Once you shorten the frame (use measurements from the Riser mounting holes in the top of the frame) You will need to add 3) body mounts 2) outboard of the Riser mounting holes and then one under the Fuel Tank. The Fender brace holes will not line up. You will have to drill new ones and then figure out how to reach them from one of the holes in the boxing with nuts I used a long coupler nut and made a threaded bar from 3/8 X 3/4 x 3" steel with the threaded hole on one end. You will also need to add the Grill mounting brackets they will fit right snug up against the Shock tower mounts. Your inner fenders will have to be cut out to fit over the Shock towers as they will be farther forward then the 2A. Hopefully you can get the bits and pieces from your old frame. The body mounts can be bolted on. As can the Grill mounting brackets. I drilled and tapped the frame with 3/8"- 24t threads to mount them.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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I’ve been dissolving rust off all the original parts I took off the Jeep (she was a Cj2A/MB salad as it turns out) by soaking them in a 5 gallon bucket with some powdered citric acid in it. Works a treat for old scale rust, the rust turns into a black slime that you can just wipe off. You can see the de-rusted and primed pieces in the picture on the previous post sitting on a cardboard sheet, this is my new go-to rust remover!
Yesterday I used an old 20ton press at work to straighten my front bumper, took about an hour to get it pretty straight, brought it back home and cleaned up some of the old welded on junk from it, I’ll fill the holes left from that and probably straighten it in the press a little more later to see how good I can get it. |
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Still been putting it back together, didn’t accomplish much over the winter as I’ve been working on finishing my bachelors degree and work has been pretty hectic.
I did manage to find a cj5 v6 steering box, some used 15” Gateway Buckshot Mudders for it. |
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Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
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Welcome to the page, Andy Meyer!
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There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Looks like a bonded title may be an option here in Mississippi. I’m actually a Missouri resident (military) and also have the option to title it there but I’m not sure there is any advantage as Missouri tends to be a little difficult. If anybody has any advice I’d be glad to hear it. I hear there was at one point a way to title in Vermont or New Hampshire or something even if you aren’t a resident if you were missing a title on an old vehicle but I’ve never looked into it.
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mbullism
Member Sponsor Member x 4 Joined: 29 May 2015 Location: MA Status: Offline Points: 4783 |
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Welcome, AM! Thanks for rescuing that one
How is titling in your state?
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Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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berettajeep
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 03 Feb. 2009 Location: Astoria OR Status: Offline Points: 4304 |
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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I’m trying to figure out what to use to drive the body mount locations. The fenders seem to line up pretty well with existing holes in the frame, but not perfectly. The frame was a v6 frame and I haven’t tried to line up my L134 mounts on it yet. (If anyone wants factory v6 frame side mounts I cut them off carefully in case they were needed) I’m guessing that the engine/t-case mounts will help drive the final location of the body.
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windyhill
Member Joined: 14 Mar. 2009 Location: North East PA Status: Offline Points: 1395 |
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Welcome. the early cj5 frame is stronger and as stated springs with be a bit longer for better ride. only an inch or so longer I believe then the 2A frame. body mount locations are slightly different if I remember correctly but its not a big deal.
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'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B '59 CJ6 '65 CJ5 '67 CJ5 |
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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Thank you, I’ll do my best to do something positive to keep an old Jeep on the road!
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Andy Meyer
Member Joined: 08 Oct. 2018 Location: Biloxi MS Status: Offline Points: 39 |
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I was able to find a frame from an early CJ5 just a couple hours from me that the kind gentleman simply gave to me. It was the last unsellable bit from a Jeep that got parted and would serve just fine for my goals. She’s not a candidate for restoration anyway so the later frame doesn’t bother me. I’ll trim it to the proper length and enjoy the longer spring length when I get to drive it. I cleaned it up, primed and painted it and I’m currently putting the axles back under it. I’m beating the original rear bumper back straight and plan to liberate the front bumper from what’s left of the frame horns and do the same. The old farmer welded lots of metal to it for various things over the years so it’s a lot of surgery to get a very beaten bumper un-glued so I can straighten it out.
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