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L134 block by Allied

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RICKG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: L134 block by Allied
    Posted: 16 Nov. 2018 at 2:30pm
The new L134 Allied block was introduced with much fanfare quite some time ago. Since that time not much has been said or documented about it. Have any you fellows had experience with it good or bad?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe DeYoung Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2018 at 5:40pm

I am working with one now and would not recommend spending money on an Allied L134 block. Much like an MD Juan repro body, you will not be able to uses it right out of the crate. You will have to do a fair amount of work to it to make it right and one feature is not correctable at all. My biggest complaints about the block are:

1) The casting in the valve chambers is horrendous... steps, ledges, and blobs of extra cast iron. I ended up porting the chambers to get a reasonable air/fuel flow. I'm not sure how much material I had to work with so I had to compromise as to the extent of making is good verses not breaking into water jacket. It's really that horrible!!
2) Rear main seal groove is to large for a rubber lip seal so have to use a rope seal.
3) Hardened valve seats not concentric with the valve guides. Must grind seats.
 
4) block is absolutely filthy inside as received. There is machining debris everywhere inside... including the oil galleries.
 
5) If you skip the cleaning (WHICH I DO NOT RECOMMEND) check the oil gallery plugs. They were all lose... inside and out.
 
6) paint on and inside the oil pump mounting flange. Make sure you clean off the paint both on the face and inside the holes.
 
In short, I think this block is a waste of money. Rebuild an original block. Even if it's cracked and needs sleeves you'll be money ahead... and there are lots of them out there.
Joe DeYoung
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2018 at 10:27pm
Thank you Joe for a trustworthy opinion! 👍🏿

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov. 2018 at 11:23pm
I agree with Joe's statements. The fitment of the rear main bearing block is also a concern. The one I watched assembled is/was crooked when torqued. This shouldn't happen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 1:33am
Bummer to hear this.  I hope the block production gets better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 3:42am
Anyone here running one ?...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 4:11am
Any reports from the winner of the Spring Reunion engine ?



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 4:12am
Who won that one that got raffled off at one of the meets back in the summer?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 4:14am
aboyandhisdog



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 4:18am
Oh, that's right.  Tom must not be checking the page lately.  Of course, he probably hasn't installed the engine yet, either...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lowenuf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 12:11pm
Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

Any reports from the winner of the Spring Reunion engine ?


The block/engine Joe DeYoung is working on IS the raffle engine from the reunion....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote m38mike Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 1:43pm
Tom is not big on being a mechanic or machinist.  But he is a good maintainer.  I think I heard that he had someone building the engine for him.  I guess that would be Joe.  I'm sad to hear that the quality is so poor.  I was hoping they would be good blocks to build from.  Not to be. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RICKG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 2:34pm
Certainly if a potential buyer were to speak to the mfr or seller he would hear all the positive attributes
from sliced bread to TP on a roll. Thanks Joe for the honest assessment, no one speaks the truth like the man who has one on the bench. Hoping the mfr is made aware of the shortfalls and will take steps to rectify for future production.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 2:36pm
Originally posted by lowenuf lowenuf wrote:

Originally posted by rocnroll rocnroll wrote:

Any reports from the winner of the Spring Reunion engine ?



The block/engine Joe DeYoung is working on IS the raffle engine from the reunion....



Oh OK, thanks for clearing that up Mike.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aboyandhisdog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 3:34pm
Hi guys,  Joe has really stepped up to take this thing on and I feel bad that this block is so fraught with problems that he is having to deal with.  I suggested that he can throw in the towel at any time, but for now, he still thinks he can turn it around.  But my offer still stands - no harm, no foul. 

Rick, to your question about Allied...honestly, I don't know if they even exist anymore.   I did a half-hearted google search for the company because I had heard they offered a 1 year warranty and came up empty.  I didn't see any companies that looked like they were building engine blocks.  I read through the spec sheet I pulled off of the KW website, but I think maybe the warranty is actually with the retailer (KW and Walcks) and not the mfg.  I don't know.  As I understand it, this block had been donated by a distributor, but I think it would be poor form for me to try to get involved there.  (you don't look a gift mule in the mouth, right muley?Wink)  But if it is under warranty...

The mystery to me is this:  if a guy was going to go to all the trouble to design and produce an engine block for his jeep brothers, wouldn't you take the first one that passed quality control and build it up, throw it in a jeep, and drive it for a few thousand miles before actually going into production and selling them?  Is this block an early prototype or a factory second?  It's kind of odd that nobody I'm aware of has actual first hand experience building a successful Allied block.  How can this be?  If I read Keith's post correctly, you can't even bolt a crank into this block.

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 6:52pm
I saw a nice running Allied engine before they were available to the general public.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov. 2018 at 11:07pm
Originally posted by Joe DeYoung Joe DeYoung wrote:

I am working with one now and would not recommend spending money on an Allied L134 block. Much like an MD Juan repro body, you will not be able to uses it right out of the crate. You will have to do a fair amount of work to it to make it right and one feature is not correctable at all. My biggest complaints about the block are:

1) The casting in the valve chambers is horrendous... steps, ledges, and blobs of extra cast iron. I ended up porting the chambers to get a reasonable air/fuel flow. I'm not sure how much material I had to work with so I had to compromise as to the extent of making is good verses not breaking into water jacket. It's really that horrible!!
2) Rear main seal groove is to large for a rubber lip seal so have to use a rope seal.
3) Hardened valve seats not concentric with the valve guides. Must grind seats.
 
4) block is absolutely filthy inside as received. There is machining debris everywhere inside... including the oil galleries.
 
5) If you skip the cleaning (WHICH I DO NOT RECOMMEND) check the oil gallery plugs. They were all lose... inside and out.
 
6) paint on and inside the oil pump mounting flange. Make sure you clean off the paint both on the face and inside the holes.
 
In short, I think this block is a waste of money. Rebuild an original block. Even if it's cracked and needs sleeves you'll be money ahead... and there are lots of them out there.
I have a Allied block and it is pretty much like Joe says. Mine is a long term project, so I haven't set the crank in the block yet, but what he said about porting the valve chambers is my experience. I wasn't impressed. I didn't have to grind the valve seats as they left a good pattern on the valve.

The block was full of machining crud so a super cleaning of all oil galleries was in order, but to be fair, I would have done that anyway with any overhaul.

Is it worth the money? Can't tell yet...I'll know more when I set the crank in the block later this winter. Too many other irons in the fire at the moment.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote adam18830 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Nov. 2018 at 4:33am
Is this the engine that is geting talked about?

"NEW" Willys 134-L  4 Cylinder Engine Block With Gear Drive Timing Setup    

 

These new blocks are cast in a modern formulation of gray iron which is harder and more durable than the original manufactured blocks. Machining is accomplished on CNC machines with tolerances exceeding .0005” (greater than the original machining capabilities). All machined surfaces are milled to the original design specifications.

This Block should be assembled only by experienced, professional engine builders.

Inspection


Upon receiving this block, it should be thoroughly inspected for shipping damage.

Prior to assembly, please inspect the following items:

Cylinder Bores - Oil Passages - Deck Surfaces - All Threads

Measuring

Initial measuring should be done prior to assembly.

Manufactured Specifications:

•Cylinder Bore: 3.1255″ +/- .0005″
•Valve Guide Bore Diameter (In & Ex): .374″ +/- .0005″
•Valve Seat Surface Width: .09375″ to .125″ +/- .0005
•Tappet Bore Diameter: .626″ +/- .0005″


Washing

Final washing should be very thorough, paying particular attention to all oil

galleys (remove all oil galley plugs prior to cleaning). Use hot soapy

water and rinse with hot water first followed by cold water which helps

reduce rust.


Pipe Plugs & Freeze Plugs

All oil galley taps are 1/8” & 3/8” NPS; Plugs are NPT tapered; Block is

fitted with five 1.25” freeze plugs and one 1.75” cam plug

Warranty


Product is warranteed  for one year from the date of purchase. If the product is used for racing or competition, this warranty is limited to manufacturer defects only; wear and breakage are not covered under any circumstances. 

If the product shows, in our opinion, evidence of being used or installed contrary to the instructions and/or subjected to improper handling, packaging, or shipping by the customer, it will not be covered by our limited warranty. The liability to Vintage Jeeps, Inc. for losses or damages arising out of any cause whatsoever is limited to the full refund of the purchase price or, at our option, repair or replacement of the product(s). 

Vintage Jeeps, Inc. shall not be liable for any consequential or incidental damages. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of consequential or incidental damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you.
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