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D18 transfer case project

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ndnchf View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2018 at 9:15pm
Brazing it is an option, but I'll try to find a good one first. There is no hurry. This and the T90 I just finished are going on the shelf as ready spares when needed. A guy who lives an hour away has a spare TC. He's going to check out the bearing cap and let me know.

The day wasn't a loss. I spent the last 3 hours completely tearing down the second D18. I'll be able to use a number of parts from this one. Unfortunately the rear bearing cap is broken at the parking brake lever pivot point. Ouch

I have to give kudos to Joe's bearing tool. I've used it twice now and it worked great. Well worth the money in my book.
1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2018 at 11:41pm
I'll take a look. I may have one. I'll PM you if I come up with one. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec. 2018 at 11:58pm
Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

I'll take a look. I may have one. I'll PM you if I come up with one. 

Thanks nofender, I appreciate it. I've been doing some looking online. I didn't realize there are at least 3 or 4 different rear bearing caps. So just to be clear which one I need, here is a photo of mine.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2018 at 1:16am
Matt Fox of QTM is selling a complete gasket and seal kit with the double lip seals.
You could easily weld that bearing cap with some  55% nickle rod.
You don't even need to be a good welder just a good grinder !  Ha Ha  !


Edited by oldtime - 28 Dec. 2018 at 1:18am
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2018 at 1:40am
I don't know how true this is but a motorcycle mechanic said that he repaired several bike or water craft parts my mixing a slurry of AL or what ever metal you are dealing with and slow setting super glue. Set up a mold to contain what you pour in and shoot it with an accelerator that causes it to set up almost immediately. He claimed that you could drill, machine or whatever after it set up. I never have tried it and I know that the guy is a bit of a BS artist. YMMV.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nofender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2018 at 11:17am
I knew i had one on the shelf! Unfortunately, it too is broken where the e-brake stud used to be. Sorry....no luck here. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec. 2018 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by nofender nofender wrote:

I knew i had one on the shelf! Unfortunately, it too is broken where the e-brake stud used to be. Sorry....no luck here. 

Ok, thanks for checking.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 9:18pm
I decided to braze my cracked rear output cap. I had nothing to lose by trying. I ground a V into the cracks, then brazed them. I think it came out pretty good. 



Upon close inspection I found a couple small cracks around the parking brake pivot stud, so we V'd and then brazed them too.



Then I set the cap in the mill and milled the excess braze off within about .005" of the surface.



Then the last step was to sand and lap it completely flat.



It's not perfect, but it's repaired as well as I can do with my limited skills. What do you guys think, will it hold?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec. 2018 at 9:53pm
Looking good from here Steve.Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cottonwood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 12:03am
It looks like that will last another 100 thousand
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 12:06am
Nice work πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ½πŸ‘

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 2:52am
  It looks just like mine, and like I said, mine has been running that way for 20+ years. Put it on and run it.  BW
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 11:35am
Thanks guys. I'd still prefer an undamaged part. But for the time being I'll plan to use it.

Different subject - the pilot bushing inside the mainshaft. According to Novak, these should have an I.D. of .628" when new. Anything over .630" should be replaced. My two shaft's bushings measure .632" and .634". Both shafts are good otherwise. I expect that a new bushing would be undersized and need to be reamed to .628" after installation, a reamer I don't have and really don't want to purchase. Novak's web site says they can install and ream the bushing for a minimal charge. Has anyone used their service? The alternative is to use a local machine shop, but that may be more expensive. How have you guys dealt with this issue?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 7:49pm
You mean the bushing for the front output clutch shaft ?
I have a new one available if you need one.
It should not require any additional reaming.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 8:11pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

You mean the bushing for the front output clutch shaft ?
I have a new one available if you need one.
It should not require any additional reaming.

Yes, that's it. What is the ID of the bushing you have? I assume it has an interference fit of something like .001" - .0015", so the current ID will reduce a little after its pressed in. My output clutch shaft measures .624". Thanks
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 8:18pm
It's an OEM  NOS bushing.
I'll need to measure the I.D. and the O.D. when I get back home.
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 8:34pm
Originally posted by oldtime oldtime wrote:

It's an OEM  NOS bushing.
I'll need to measure the I.D. and the O.D. when I get back home.

Ok - thanks.
BTW - do you have any tips for removing the old bushing? I thought I'd try the fill it with grease and a close fitting dowel technique....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ndnchf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2018 at 11:05pm
It fought me, but I got the old bushing outSmile
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