D18 transfer case project |
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Online Points: 3422 |
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How did you get it out? Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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It was in tight! Well first I was going to try the hydraulic grease/punch method. But the oil hole in the side made that a non-starter. Then I tried a slide hammer blind bushing puller, but it wouldn't budge. So finally I used a hacksaw blade and made cuts through the bushing at 3 and 6 O'clock. Then with a very small screwdriver ground like a chisel I tapped it in, then was able to break out the small cut section. Then collapsed the remainder and pulled it out.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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One of the four bolts that go through the drum and yoke spun at some point in the past, making a small divot in the ridge inside the drum that is suppose to keep the bolt from spinning. So what's the best way to fix this? What I'm thinking it to use the MIG to add a spot of weld to the bolt head on the two flats adjacent to the flat that faces the ridge. This would essentially lengthen the flat against the ridge and prevent it from turning. What do you guys think?
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3396 |
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Why not MIG the drum?
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BOULDER 48 2A
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Its cast iron, a much great chance of cracking. It could be done with the right welding rod and pre-heating the drum, then machining then ridge. But beefing up the bolt head seems safer and easier.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Online Points: 3422 |
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Thanks ndnchf, I was just curious. I am always looking for different ways to get a jobs done without buying special tools. I read about the hydraulic way before and had to try it on pilot bushings and found it works great but messy. On bushings in blind holes I try first to see if it is a size that I can use a tap to thread it and use a bolt to pull it out. In your case with the transverse hole you probably did it the easiest way. Thanks for sharing, Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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I thought about that too, but didn't have a 5/8" tap.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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I had some extra companion flange bolts, so I took one and welded the sides of the head to make it wider so it won't turn. It took a little fitting, and it's not pretty, but it won't turn now
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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The shift rods had some corrosion at the outer ends. I put them in the lathe and cleaned them up as well as possible. Would you use them or buy new ones. I'll buy new ones if necessary, but trying not to spend more than needed. I have no illusions about this TC being 100% leak free. But I'd like to keep it to a minimum.
So what do you say about these rods: Yay or Nay? |
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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WeeWilly
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Online Points: 3422 |
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Nice repair on the bolt. Can those pits be polished out? I would prevent as many leaks as possible even if I had to replace them. Since you got a lathe you could make a sleeve for them. I have made speedi-sleeves for other applications with success and sleeves for those would be a lot easier since you could turn it down and polished them after they were pressed on the shafts. I appreciate your work. Jim
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47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4140 |
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Shift rod oil leakage is pretty minimal so I think those rods are acceptable.
Double lip seals may help some. You can get a complete double seal and gasket set from Matt Fox at QTM. The new output clutch shaft bushing (A-987) that I have measures about about .628 I.D. and about .755 O.D. Yeah removing the old bushing is nearly always a chore. I agree that parking drum was better left alone "as is". |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
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They're not going to leak constantly, only when the shafts are moved. They don't move all the time, only once in a while, when you shift them. If I had better ones, I'd use the better ones. If not, I think I'd put 'em in. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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I think I'll use the shafts. I have the double lip seal # for the output yokes, do they make a double lip seal for the shift rods?
Oldtime - your bushing is too large at the OD to work for me. After removing the old bushing, I measured the bore at .7485" - .749". I think a .006" interference fit would be too much and distort the bushing. The .628" ID is perfect, but that would surely close up after the bushing is pressed in. It would then require a .628" reamer (that I din't have) to get back to the needed ID. But thanks for checking, I appreciate it. I may have to send it to Novak and have them install and ream a bushing.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4140 |
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Yeah, that's what I'm saying Matt provides the double lip shift seals in his kit but I don't think they have a part # on them.
I'll check to see If I have any with numbers on them ...... FYI the bushing I have is a split bushing with steel backing. Diameter of your used output clutch shaft probably lost about .002 of an inch from standard ....... |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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I was just looking at the QTM ebay store and saw his gasket and seal kit, plus other things I need. I've not dealt with him before, but I'll probably order a set. Thanks for the tip
My output clutch shaft is in excellent shape and measures .624". A 628" bushing ID would give .002" clearance. I think that would be about right.
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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Kinnett
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Aug. 2018 Location: Williamsburg VA Status: Offline Points: 94 |
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I had a local machine shop (Yorktown, Va) press in my new bushing and then ream it to. 628. They charged me $20. I took the old one out using a hacksaw blade. I cut a 1/4 section of it out and then the rest of the bushing just slid right out. It took some patience and persistence but it worked.
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ndnchf
Member Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 22 Sep. 2017 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 2177 |
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Does anyone know, or point me to the TC roller bearing and cup numbers? I'd like to order them from Rock Auto. I found the Timken numbers on the NAPA parts list, but they don't show up on a search of the Rock Auto site. Thanks.
Update: belay my last - I found the numbers and placed my order. Edited by ndnchf - 02 Jan. 2019 at 2:45am |
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1948 CJ2A - It goes nowhere fast, but anywhere slow.
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oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4140 |
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GROUP 18-04
A-1007----------------D18 front output-----------------------------------------Fafnir 206 K FAFNIR.......MRC.........SKF............TIMKEN..........FM...........BCA |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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