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My First Jeep Build Ever, Need Solid Guidance!?!?!

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CapnCaveMan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CapnCaveMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 1:12am
the key fits the ignition, but wont turn it, and with it being attached to the coil im unsure how to disassemble to change the tumblers
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Unkamonkey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 1:14am
Kroil, PB Blaster or the mix of ATF and acetone as people have described. If it comes down to it, heat.
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CapnCaveMan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CapnCaveMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 1:17am
ive been soaking them in pb all winter, hoping when the weather breaks, so will the plugs, loose not off lol
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 1:33am
Yes you can put roll bars inside a hard top. Easiest to do it with the top off after lots of careful measuring and maybe mocking up with PVC pipe to make sure it fits.

Spark plugs you can go a couple ways easiest is to be patient and use a 50/50 mixture of Acetone and OLD school ATF blow out the debris and fill the little pocket with the stuff. refill as needed for a few days and give it a try. DO NOT GO THE BREAKER BAR ROUTE. use a 3/8" ratchet and a good 6 point spark plug socket. If no joy after a few days you can heat the plugs up with a propane torch good an hot. Then walk away and let the plugs cool down completely before trying the wrench. Also if you break any ceramic make sure you have it all cleaned up before removing a plug that crap will destroy a cylinder if it gets down the plug hole>

There are commercial penetrating oils that work well. But from what guys here talk about none of them are better then good old 50/50 ATF Acetone.


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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CapnCaveMan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CapnCaveMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 1:42am
sweet, ill give it a go, and ive not taken any offense, im really glad to have people point out discrepencies, like i said, if its not 100% original, within margin, ill gladly modify instead of runnin the 60hp or whatever 134
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 2:01am
Basically. Anything that old is not original but most of the parts interchange.
The last antique car I worked on was a 1906 Buick. We had to be inventive.
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CapnCaveMan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CapnCaveMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 2:07am
1906, damn, thats old, do you think a 4.0 from a wrangler would fit in a 2a?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 2:24am
Originally posted by CapnCaveMan CapnCaveMan wrote:

1906, damn, thats old, do you think a 4.0 from a wrangler would fit in a 2a?

Probably but you would have to do some body work. I sort have not wanted to say it but you would probably be better off doing a Buick V6 or a SMB Chevy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CapnCaveMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 3:20am
the stock axles can they handle that kind of power? and what about that 2:1 transfercase? id like to keep it if possible
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 4:47am
Actually, some old pickups ran D44s without a problem. We had a full race 327 in a jeep and surprisingly, it held up well. A friend did manage to rip all of the teeth off of the input shaft in the T90 but the rest of the gear train was fine. I believe a Warn OD will hold up to 350 HP.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 6:02am
Welcome to the forum.

I’m going to give you a little different take, with the caveat that it’s your Jeep so do what you want.

There have been many people join up with the forum and start their projects with great enthusiasm only to have them pull their rigs into pieces and then we never hear from them again. I can only assume that their enthusiasm ran out with their money, and their machines still sit in sad piles waiting for love. 

I would advise that anyone new to the hobby do the minimum required to get their Jeep running.

Right now your Jeep is a one if a kind family heirloom. Replace the body, or cover up that patina with shiny paint and it will be like 100s of other jeeps out there. Your Jeep will never be a highway runner, even with a small block Chevy, without major suspension, steering and wheelbase changes and if you’re going to do all that why bother hacking up a vintage vehicle? Just buy that modern stuff installed from the factory in a new JL. 

I am no purist, but I think getting a vintage vehicle then changing it all around to make it more modern (streetable) ruins the antique charm and uniqueness and never really gets to modern speed, ride, comfort, quiet .....

You’ll be surprised how capable these little rigs are.

As always, your mileage may vary.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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Unkamonkey View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 6:56am
Zatcly, where do you want to go with this Jeep. Show room stock or a driver?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Unkamonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 10:32am
Actually, some of us can walk and pick our nose at then same time. I've been working on Jeeps for over 50 years. It is sort of surprising what some of us know.
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CapnCaveMan View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CapnCaveMan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 2:10pm
i think that most of yall have about the same opinion, get it driving, with what i have, ill cut the floor pans out and make some new ones of diamond plate aluminum, i want a usable jeep to go wheeling in, id like to drive it to work which the back way never exceeds 45mph, so i think just fix what i have is the best i have for now, does anyone know anything about this gasoline heater? stewart warner summer breeze, are they safe to use? are they worth fixing?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote windyhill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 2:59pm
Welcome aboard. 
4.0 will not really fit in a willys.  Far better engines to swap.
Buick 225 v6 where a factory option in CJ5' starting in '66 to '71. You can find a donor cj5 and swap motor, motor mounts, trans etc.  Or upgrade trans to a truck 4 speed.  Then upgrade brakes to 11" drums off of a later CJ or do a disc brake conversion. This will make it lots more roadable, but will cost $.
If you think of this a more of a tractor it will be easier.  Top speed about 50mph, manual everything. They are tons of fun, great to teach the kids how to drive on, go on camping trips etc.  But they are rustic. 

My advice"
Get running, make sure drive train is solid, and then get the brakes upgraded.  Then drive it and have fun for a bit, while you decide on body work etc.  Cool that it's been in your family so long!

'48 CJ2A
'53 CJ3B
'59 CJ6
'65 CJ5
'67 CJ5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 3:24pm
MUCH easier to replace the floor with cheap flat 16ga steel. With aluminum how will you attach it to the hat channel the side walls the tunnel the riser etc. If you make a cut around the bottom of the tunnel say 1/2" into the flat then do the same with the Toe Boards (sloped part of the floor where your feet rest) and remove it from the bottom of the riser (where the floor transitions from the front to the rear) Bend a 1/2" lip at the side walls you can replace the front floor with a small sheet of flat 16ga. and a mig welder. For less then 50 bucks

Most likely the hat channels (under floor support) will need to be replaced at the same time. Which once you remove the floor can be done at the same time. You can buy reproduction Hat channel from most of the Willys Parts places.

Side wall damage cut and weld in a patch grind and smooth


Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ggordon49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 3:44pm
Hey LJ,

If you are looking for solid guidance, I really think it's in your best interest to listen to these guys.... Many years of experience and wisdom responding to your thread... Respectfully speaking, forget about the BIG$$$ ideas for now like 4.0's, roll bars and overdrives.... Just get it going and stopping, who cares about the body for now.  Once you're out on the road/trail having fun making memories with your children, you will have a better idea of what you want/need..  Keep it simple for now.


- Don't Let The Fatherless Ones Grind You Down -
- I like them stock, survivor's with original paint are my favorites -
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 67charger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jan. 2019 at 3:57pm
Welcome to the forum, its nice having somebody in the Northern Kentucky region.  I live about 10 minutes from Dirty Turtle in Trimble County.
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