Fuel line installation |
Post Reply |
Author | |
Dutch 1960
Member Joined: 11 Feb. 2019 Location: San Diego, CA Status: Offline Points: 72 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 12 Feb. 2019 at 2:08am |
I am a long-time lurker and have gotten lots of help by reading threads. I have not found anything on how to install the hard fuel line from the tank to the engine room. I think I know the answer here, but I figure there might be some common knowledge or a trick to it that I do not know about.
I have a 2A VEC tub on a 3A/3B frame; the Jeep is complete, but I have had it in storage for about 20 years, and it had obviously been tucked away for a long time before that. So there is a lot of small stuff to do on this one. I popped for a nice set of 2A fuel lines, as I had Bubba'd a line for it 20 years ago, out of a length of brake line. Back when, I gave the tube a bit of an arc, and basically headed from rear to front, steering the end of the line up and to the left, until the front end of it showed up to the left of the steering box, then added a couple of slight bends here and there, then angled up the front end of it towards the fuel pump, and a 90 degree bend to the tank in the back. Easy-Peasy, 20 minutes or so. Did a couple of Jeeps that way back when, never any issues. This new line, it looked great in the bag, all the bends, big and little, everything done. But after an hour of fighting the battle, and inadvertently adding more ugly bends and twists to the thing, I think I am giving up. I have come to the conclusion that these pre-made lines are great if you are willing to rip out all the pedal assembly and exhaust system, and maybe the driveline, but if you want to do this with everything on the Jeep basically in place, you are out of luck. The sharply bent tube ends mean that you can't really just run the line along the path that it goes, instead there is a lot of hooking and fitting that require a bunch of the Jeep to not be in the way of it. Is there a trick to it, or is going back to a straight brake line tube the better option for me? I have the brake line sitting right here, ready to go. This Jeep is to be a driver, not a show Jeep. I am interested in making it tidy and functional, not exact and original in all the small things. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
|
|
64CJ5
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 15 Nov. 2013 Location: NE Wyoming Status: Offline Points: 941 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I needed a new fuel line on my M38 conversion. I measured and used black flexible gas line hose. It was easy to snake in to where it needed to go. I used zip ties to hold it in place.
|
|
64CJ5 "Eeyore"
01TJ "Tigger" 52 M38 Severely demilitarized, "Popeye" The Coast Guard Jeep. 14 JK "Jake" To Trust Government Defys Both History and Reason. PUBLIC LAND Owner/User |
|
Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Welcome to the page, Dutch 1960! Last time I messed with fuel line, I changed mine to 5/16" all the way. I had to run the line from the drain sump instead of the original location, but I wanted the larger diameter line, so that's what's there now. I just bought about a 6' length of tubing from my FLAPS and bent it to fit. Cut off the flare on the end near the fuel pump and run it into rubber hose for a flex section. I did clamp it down where it appeared to vibrate too much when I tapped it. Ol' Unreliable is not a restoration, by any means.
|
|
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
|
|
bobevans
Member Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
There's a pretty good picture on the 3A page of an existing fuel line that shows where to snake it through and where to tie it down. http://www.cj3a.info/tech/line.html
|
|
'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
|
athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4145 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
While lying under the Willys, I've found that if I feed it through the tub support gusset first, and somewhat aggressively twisting the line, it will eventually find its way into position. Even this will require quite a bit of flexing the line while it's being fed in. Some rebending will likely be needed.
|
|
1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
|
Dutch 1960
Member Joined: 11 Feb. 2019 Location: San Diego, CA Status: Offline Points: 72 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
all good info. Athawk11, do you feed the line back-to-front or front-to-back? I have been trying back-to-front and I am totally stymied. Maybe if I pull the LF fender and attack it from the front and outside through the toe brace hole?
|
|
athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4145 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I feed them from back to front. I was up and down a few times while feeding the line. Tugging from up top. Back down to twist...and so on. Removing the driver fender might help reduce paint damage and having to reshape the line as much.
Good luck.
|
|
1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
|
JeepSaffer
Member Joined: 26 Sep. 2014 Location: South Africa Status: Offline Points: 1181 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Lots of pics here too:
|
|
1948 CJ2A #204853 in South Africa
|
|
IronAge52
Member Joined: 22 Aug. 2016 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 257 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi, I see you are in San Diego, so am I I have a original CJ2A AND m38 you should come over and check it out in person. PM ms for address. Tim Hunt is also here in town and has a very original CJ2a Tim is also long term member of the 2a page. Jerry
|
|
gearwrencher
|
|
Dutch 1960
Member Joined: 11 Feb. 2019 Location: San Diego, CA Status: Offline Points: 72 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks, all, and PM sent, Jerry. I am motivated to tackle the fuel line thing again this weekend.. I’ll get it done one way or the other, and report back.
|
|
Dutch 1960
Member Joined: 11 Feb. 2019 Location: San Diego, CA Status: Offline Points: 72 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Got the fuel line installed. Pulling the LF fender helped a lot. I was still tempted to go with the NAPA brake line, but I found the aluminum line easier to bend and flex slightly, without tools, and I already had it. Rear-to-front was the way I went with it.
|
|
bobevans
Member Joined: 31 July 2005 Location: Pittsburgh, PA Status: Offline Points: 844 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Great! Thanks for letting us know how it turned out.
|
|
'48 CJ2A
'56 DJ3A '79 CJ7 And two of them actually run! |
|
Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9611 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Aluminum line?! BW
|
|
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
|
Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1482 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I went with the Omix. Pre-bent. Included insulators, flexible section, clips and the line from the carb to the pump. Slid right in place with minimal tweaking.One of the few parts they sell that worked OK. http://www.omix-ada.com/catalogsearch/result/?chassis=122&q=fuel+lineMicah
Edited by Steelyard Blues - 18 Feb. 2019 at 5:26am |
|
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
|
drm101
Member Joined: 12 Dec. 2012 Location: Clarkston, MI Status: Offline Points: 1468 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I bought a Rigid double flair tool and a nice bender. It makes fuel and brake lines cheap and easy. You can then just add a fitting where it's convenient.
|
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |