MY '47 CJ-2A |
Post Reply | Page 123 7> |
Author | |
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 02 Apr. 2021 at 3:57am |
Worked on cleaning up the Bell housing, T-90C Transmission, D-18 X-fer, and Husky overdrive. This includes all external and internal parts. Then spent way to much time finding proper bolt lengths. When done, they will be bagged and tagged for easier assembly.
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Len, all the mounting hardware come from Brennan Metcalf. He makes kits for D-25, 27, 30, Frt. diffs and both D-44 two piece and flanged axle diffs. NO welding. Brennan makes a lot of cool stuff. Ya the tire/axle stand worked out great! Seemed a good way to align the clutch plates. |
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
Greaser007
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
FoMoCo Discs look doable.
Did you get the caliper brackets to modify for your axle assembly ? I had a great visit with my buddies in Sacto yesterday, and will hopefully catch you home on my next trek-for-sanity. Nice build-stand for assembling the "migraine" Locking Diff.
|
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The rear disc brake assemblies came in today for my 1971 D-44 off set flanged diff. These calipers assemblies came out of a 2019 Edge and are stamp #316 so they should work well. Darn things look almost like new. Even the pads are in great shape.
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm back at rebuilding a Power Lok again.
After having trouble finding NOS parts OR decent after-market parts for a fair price, I thought all was good to go in reassembling the D-44 Power Lok Unit. As mentioned, with a pic, a few posts up, I bought a Yukon PL clutch pack and complete gear set. Basically, All the internal guts for a PL. Upon reassembling it, I noticed that it was not torqueing down correctly so it was disassemble time. Found that a cross shaft had snapped in two, KRAP!. I checked, re-checked, and re-checked to see if "I" screwed up but found nada in how the PL was assembled. I honestly concluded that the cross shaft was bad. Tried contacting Yukon and pressed ? for customer service and the line simply went dead.....multiple times. Tried their tek line and got 1/2 hour of advertising for Randy's BS World. Called and wrote to Randys for NADA! Very disappointing. I found out Yukon is having issues so beware of this BS. With a lot of research, the correct cross shaft for a D-44 flanged diff should be solid as used in a PL in a D-44 FRT diff. Yukon and others use cross shafts with a center hole which are used for Dana tapered two piece axles. They are not as strong BUT should work if that's all there is. After many phone calls, and Emails later, Rich from R&P had a set of Dana solid D-44 cross shafts for a fair price and once again it's time to reassemble the PL. I decided to used a axle as a work stand along as to help align the PL innards up. I put a hose clamp on the axle shaft so that the axle would be a 1/4" from hitting the cross shaft. This makes a good work platform while aligning up the innards. It was easy to make sure the cultch pack and side gear were all stacked correctly since with a little effort one can turn/spin the innards around. You can see that the cross shafts are the solid type. Clutch pack is oiled up, in place, and ready for the case to slide over it. Cases bolted up, both axles are in position to keep the innards aligned, bolts torque to 40LBS. Case halves are meshed together and cross shafts look good. NO broken cross shafts. I did use lok tite blue on the bolts due to reading that guys have experienced the bolts loosening up. Edited by jeepsterjim - 08 Feb. 2021 at 5:01pm |
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
FINALY, making progress on the 2A. My KBS goodies came in and with good cool weather it's time to go to work on the frame.
Hooked the frame up to the cheery picker and sprayed it down with KBS KLEEN then rinsed it off and rolled it back into the heated garage to dry. Next day the frame rolled out and was treated with KBS Rust Blast, rinsed off, and rolled frame back into the heated garage. I used an garden sprayer with a extended wand and a brass atomizer nozzle I came across. This set up worked very well. I left the heater on over night to help dry the frame. The next step for the frame is applying a couple of coats of KBS Rust Seal. Stay Tuned.
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Hi Len
Seems its 1 step forward 3 steps back, LOL. I have had a overwhelming amount of projects come up BUT, as of about 2 weeks ago, I am back at work on the 2A. Got the frame welded up in key areas ---- basically re welding crap factory welds and stitch welding brackets for strength and peace of mind. Just finished up "RECLEANING" the Power Lok parts for the D-44 rear diff and have all the parts laid out for assembly. FEELS GREAT TO GET BACK TO WORK! Will be ordering up a frame paint kit through KBS next week so I can get the frame painted. Come by when ya can!
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
Greaser007
Member Joined: 16 Jan. 2018 Location: Anderson, Calif Status: Offline Points: 850 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Solving mysteries can take forever. Some mysteries become "cold-cases" and are never solved.
hahahaha Well, Jim, post up some new progress photos if you would. thanks, and i hope to stop by this spring so we can evaluate our mis-comings & good-fortune. hahaha I am back tinkering on my T-18 to L134 conversion after a 14 month haitus. Len
|
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Well while attempting to rebuild the power lok I came across a puzzling problem. This power lok is the one that Randy's was selling and then Randys sold it to Nitro and is made in India, so I have been told. I ordered a NOS Dana clutch pack and discovered the discs does not fit over the side gear splines. WONDERFUL! I dug out an old clutch pack and tried one of the discs and it did not fit either. I spoke with a few power lok GURUS and they were baffled and suggested filing the discs a little in which I did to no avail. Another Forum member recently bought a new Nitro power lok unit and installed a Yukon clutch pack in it. SO I ordered the Yukon pack , go it, and guess what,.....it did not work. Last resort I found a Yukon inner parts kit for a VERY VERY reasonable price and it fits the Nitro case perfectly. The original Nitro dics fit over the new yukon side gears but is extremely sloppy. Wonder if the original Randy's/Nitro Units had metric parts mixed with in the unit. The case bolts are not metric.
A big thanks to you guys that helped me out!!!!! Here's the kit that solved the problem....besides money, LOL |
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Ken Thanks for replying back. I did use Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lubricant LS 75W-90 to assemble the PL unit parts. Very sticky stuff! If I am unable to make the new clutch pack work correctly, I will reuse the old disc's and use the new plates.
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
oldtime
Member Joined: 12 Sep. 2009 Location: Missouri Status: Offline Points: 4183 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yeah Jim, I normally don’t Keep up with build threads.
Your used Powr Lok plates look perfectly normal. So long as they have no gouges they can certainly be re-used. I would skip the petro jelly. Just put normal lube on the plates when you re-assemble the unit.
|
|
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I'm wondering, since this rear end will not be in use for a few years could I put a thin coat of petroleum jelly on all the innards of the PL to keep them from rusting? Yes I will use LS oil once the rear end is assembled. I'm just concerned about moisture is all and the P. jelly should thin out quickly.
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Well I caught up on enough last winter, fall, and summer chores to the point that I can focus on real stuff once again. I'm ready to rebuild the D-44 series 3 power lok and then rebuild the front D-30 series 4 power lok next.
Here's a picture of the cleaned up and new part |
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Yes......From the little what I have learned this plate was designed for the M38, M38A1, & ? waterproof clutch assembly. Still not sure if it took a special bellhousing though. |
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
Ol' Unreliable
Member Joined: 25 Sep. 2016 Location: CO Springs CO Status: Offline Points: 4226 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The plate appears to have been painted OD at one time, implying M-38A1 origin--to me, anyway.
|
|
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
|
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
UPDATE:
Jay----"Deer chaser" found some pics of at least part of the puzzle. It might be the total puzzle. THANKS JAY.....owe you a Filipes Pizza in Napa. This rear motor plate has the extra 6 holes in it. SEE PICS This would be the "inside" portion of the plate. I went out and looked at the F-134 and the 6 holes are not threaded so the bolts may thread into the rectangle welded plates from the outside in. It's hard to tell in the pic. This is the side the goes flush to the block. Edited by jeepsterjim - 17 Aug. 2020 at 1:55am |
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
jeepsterjim
Member Joined: 13 July 2011 Location: lincoln, ca Status: Offline Points: 1283 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I saw the rig that the motor was pulled from which was about 2 hours before I showed up and it came out of a 1963 CJ-5. There is no rear freeze plug on the motor.
|
|
Jim
CJ-2A - 81299 |
|
Joe Friday
Moderator Group Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 26 Dec. 2010 Location: Jeep Central Status: Offline Points: 3654 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The picture looks very similar to one of Wes Knettles photos from willysmjeeps.
I believe that block would have been from an M38A1 Military Jeep with the waterproof bellhousing. A post on WillysMJeeps should get you the answer you are seeking.
|
|
Post Reply | Page 123 7> |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |