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Fuel leak question |
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Teleboy444 
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Joined: 09 Nov. 2015 Location: Exeter, NH Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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 Topic: Fuel leak questionPosted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 6:05pm |
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Hello!
Hoping to tap into your experience here... I'm getting a slow leak at both the drain and the fuel line input under my tank. I'm going to drain the tank and tap the threads to clean them up, but when I reassemble I was hoping to use some sort of sealant if there is one that is appropriate. Such as maybe: http://www.gasoila.com/products/pipe-thread-sealants/gasoila-e-seal-thread-sealant.html My question: Is using sealant at the drain and fuel line input common practice? Do you all typically see leaks from the tank or is this potentially a bad idea? Thanks for your help, Brad Houston Exeter, NH
Edited by Teleboy444 - 18 Mar. 2019 at 6:13pm |
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Joe DeYoung
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 6:21pm |
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The fitting is a mechanical flare fitting so sealant is not appropriate for that application. If you look at the inverted flare on the tank side I bet your find that the brass distorted where it meets the flare on the fuel line. Most likely you'll need to solder in a new inverted flare fitting on the tank. A radiator repair shop can do this for you if you're not able to.
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Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife. |
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Teleboy444
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Joined: 09 Nov. 2015 Location: Exeter, NH Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 6:27pm |
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Hi Joe,
Thanks for that. One more thing to add to my what was shrinking but now seems to be growing again list. I'm assuming it's ok to use a sealant for the drain plug? Brad |
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Joe DeYoung
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 6:37pm |
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Yes, you can use sealant on the tapered plug. Be sure you use a thread sealant that is rated for gasoline. Also, be sure to not get any inside the tank, so only apply a small amount to the male threads.
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Joe DeYoung
to many jeeps, parts, and accessories to list here, but apparently enough to keep me in trouble with my wife. |
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willyt
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Posted: 18 Mar. 2019 at 7:37pm |
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An old refrigeration trick with flare fittings is to put a small dap of oil on the face of the fitting and the face of the flare. Helps the two to seal better.
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1952 CJ3A (Lil'Green)
early M38A1(Ole Green) 1970 Jeepster Commando |
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Teleboy444
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Joined: 09 Nov. 2015 Location: Exeter, NH Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Posted: 19 Mar. 2019 at 1:17pm |
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I'll definitely try that oil trick first. Not sure I have the necessary soldering skill for a new insert. It's a new fuel line so that could have something to do with the flare and fitting not lining up well.
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Rus Curtis
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Joined: 25 Mar. 2010 Location: Alabama Status: Offline Points: 1733 |
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Posted: 19 Mar. 2019 at 2:28pm |
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I don't think it will be possible to tap either of the threads successfully (inverted flare fitting is closed off with flare seat, drain is pipe thread so it's tapered) so these other suggestions are much better.
Once the flared fitting is grounded, that's as far as you can go. I'd also suggest a close visual on the fuel line seat too. See if there's any damage, i.e. crack or dent that would also prevent a seal. The drain can be tightened and should seal as it will get tighter and tighter as you turn. However, too much could strip. I now know there's such a thing as fuel rated sealant.
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Rus Curtis
Alabama 1954 CJ3B Bantam T3-C |
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Steelyard Blues
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Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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Posted: 19 Mar. 2019 at 3:19pm |
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I had a brake line that would not seat. The local hydraulic hose shop had a soft copper disk that inserted into the fitting and allowed the compression fitting to re-seat once it was tightened down. Micah
EDIT: I believe this is what I used to get a seal. https://www.amazon.com/Legines-Copper-Gasket-Degree-Fitting/dp/B07CHFJH38/ref=asc_df_B07CHFJH38/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584138858176581&psc=1 Edited by Steelyard Blues - 20 Mar. 2019 at 1:51am |
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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Mark W.
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Posted: 19 Mar. 2019 at 3:55pm |
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The drain is a NPT I want to say its 1/4" but could be an 1/8" Hardware stores that have the Irwin Tap and Die display will carry smaller NPT taps if you need to tap it a little deeper to clean it up just don't go to much or the plug might not be long enough to seat before running out of taper.
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Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized 1949 3A W/S 1957 CJ5 Frame Modified Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962 |
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SteveBonny
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Joined: 15 Sep. 2018 Location: Waterloo Iowa Status: Offline Points: 103 |
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Posted: 20 Mar. 2019 at 12:42pm |
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My drain plug leaked too. Sealant fixed it. Use make sure you use sealant rated for gasolene. Tape will end up in your carb jets!
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47 CJ2A
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Teleboy444
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Joined: 09 Nov. 2015 Location: Exeter, NH Status: Offline Points: 31 |
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Posted: 21 Mar. 2019 at 10:26am |
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Micah, I just saw your message about the copper flare gasket! That might be just the ticket!
I borrowed some sealant for the plug from a mechanic friend of mine and will drain the gas this weekend. The drain plug is hardly "sweating" however so I'm mostly concerned about the fuel line connection. We shall see!
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