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Brake line advice please

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wantcoffee99 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 Aug. 2019 at 7:31pm
Hello to everyone and thanks in advance to any advice and information you can give me.  I am new to the forum and just bought my 2A a couple days ago.  Here is a link to the post where I introduce myself.  https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/im-new_topic45280.html

I am going through my new treasure and making it roadworthy.  I took it for a test drive on a farm road before buying it, and the brakes worked fine.  I was even pleasantly surprised by the braking distance.  But when I opened up the brake master cylinder I found it was dry and had debris at the bottom.   That got me thinking about the brake lines.  My question is how do I determine if the lines are sound?  For that matter, what else should I inspect?
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Gil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug. 2019 at 8:10pm
Hi Doug,you would want to check everything that got to do with brakes,your rubber hoses,wheel cylinders,master cylinder and your brake lines .Your brake fluid went somewhere so try to find the leak and the condition of your brake system.Better to be safe.

Giles
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Aug. 2019 at 8:52pm
Rust will find its way in.  Hard brake lines will eventually rust. Rubber lines will eventually deteriorate.  Looking at the outside makes it difficult to know how things are on the inside. 
 
Sometimes the rubber lines will show dry rot cracks or bulges when they're old.  Sometimes the inner wall sloughs off and you won't know. 
 
Blockage can happen on any line.  Since you know the master cylinder is compromised and needs replacement or rebuild, you should consider inspecting the wheel cylinders to see if you want to rebuild/replace them. 
 
Flushing (from a clean m/c) will help you understand what's inside the lines.  You may find debris inside that will clear out during the flush.  But if a line is past its service, flushing will only buy you a little bit of time as more rust/debris will build. 
 
You can't always choose when you need to brake so make sure yours work.
Rus Curtis
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug. 2019 at 5:20pm
I bought a roll of steel line and fittings, a nice Rigid tube bender and a Rigid double flare tool, and replaced everything that didn't look good. I bought new M/C and wheel cylinders, which are pretty inexpensive. I made the little S-bend pieces, but if I had to do it again, I'd buy those too. Best to do it all at once so you don't have to bleed lines again. 
Dean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Aug. 2019 at 6:34pm
Originally posted by drm101 drm101 wrote:

I bought a roll of steel line and fittings, a nice Rigid tube bender and a Rigid double flare tool, and replaced everything that didn't look good. I bought new M/C and wheel cylinders, which are pretty inexpensive. I made the little S-bend pieces, but if I had to do it again, I'd buy those too. Best to do it all at once so you don't have to bleed lines again. 
 
If I were to do it again, this is how I'd do it.  I bought a line kit and still had to bend it correctly and the supplied S lines were only single flared.  I double flared my own using Dr. Vern's method.  Very easy.
Rus Curtis
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tufcj2a View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tufcj2a Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Aug. 2019 at 4:10pm
I opted for steel-braided flexible lines.  Cost more (about 50% more), but very nice to work with and easy as can be.  Strong and should last longer than fixed steel lines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wantcoffee99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug. 2019 at 2:39am
I'm still working on this, but I filled the mc, bled/flushed the lines, and seem to have good brakes now.  I will have to keep looking for leaks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JakesPlace42 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2021 at 12:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote windyhill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Oct. 2021 at 10:09pm
I've bent my own, and last time I got the pre-bent lines from Walcks. His kits are made locally and are nice, have all the little clamps and hose protectors etc. and look great.  I usually run all new lines, hoses, and a new master cylinder and wheels cylinders.  Then I know they are all good and safe. I figure those steel lines could be almost 70 years old now, once I've done them all they should out last me. 

Edited by windyhill - 27 Oct. 2021 at 10:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Oct. 2021 at 7:17am
I used to bend my own lines, it isn't difficult with the right tools, but with the last two Jeeps I brought back to use I bought brake line kits from Walcks. One kit was for a CJ2A, the other a 67 CJ5. Both kits were high quality and fit perfectly. Buying a good kit saves me a lot of time, and at my age that is important.

When I start working on a Jeep project I always completely renew the brake system, even if the brakes are working when I get the Jeep running. While working on the brakes I also install new wheel bearings and seals front and rear. You don't want to install new brakes and then have them get soaked with gear oil when the seals fail.

With a single reservoir master cylinder every component in the system has to be in good condition for safety. A failure of any part of the brake system usually means no brakes. 

Everything goes back new, and while I am at it, if it is going to my Jeep, I upgrade to better brakes, usually 11" all four wheels.   
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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