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Memphis View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03 Dec. 2019 at 12:18am
I've wanted a Willys for years... I've followed Jpet and Mieser around pirate and a few others and finally made it over here. 

I have a lot of pieces to begin my build but I don't want to make a mistake... Parts are extremely difficult to source in Canada and getting a Willys is stupid hard (I got very lucky).

As far as a parts list this is what I have:

Complete CJ3A roller with an okay frame that requires a full "road worthy" body job but missing Engine, Trans, T-Case. Has D25 and D41 axles.
 
1957 CJ5 - No body, frame is shot, 2.2 Hurricane, T90 and D18 that all require a full rebuild. D25 and D44 off set rear axle

The first axle I picked up was a D44 high pinion, some monkey destroyed the inner C's and cut them. I was going to use the C's from the Zamboni axle and modify the tubes to passenger side drop and turn the zamboni D44 into a rear full floater as it would have the internal seals and I could pack the outers with grease without worry.

1970s Zamboni Axles:
Front D44 Low Pinion 5.86 open, needs tubes adjusted as the pinion is almost centered. 55" WMS
Rear D60 Low Pinion 5.86 open 30 spline, needs nothing, 27.5" spring mounts and a bolt in affair. 50" WMS

I acquired a free 2003 5.3 engine, complete. Customer hit a deer and the truck was written off

I also have a short output D300 which I plan to use.

At this point I wanted your opinions as I like the stock sleeper look... but the D60 screams zero modification other than buying new 8 lug wheels (I have two sets of OE 16" wheels that I think are awesome) and a bottom shave. The front LP D44 needs to be modified regardless and is missing shafts so I am buying front shafts either way.

5.3 > Either SM465 or NP435 > D300 with 5.86 gears I also think I am going to be way over-geared for the street. I am planning to run 34" x 9.5 TSLs

Advice from someone that's been there done that would be appreciated. I don't want to fall into the trap of "I might as well use it because I have it" mentality.

Edit for pics:



Edited by Memphis - 03 Dec. 2019 at 12:38am
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bobevans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec. 2019 at 12:41am
Nothin' screams cool like Zamboni axles!!
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec. 2019 at 12:41am
And Welcome to the page!
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec. 2019 at 12:53am
You might be from The Great White North if you use zamboni axles in a Jeep build..... 

Welcome to the page and best of luck to you on your build.
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Memphis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec. 2019 at 1:03am
Originally posted by AKoller AKoller wrote:

You might be from The Great White North if you use zamboni axles in a Jeep build..... 

Welcome to the page and best of luck to you on your build.

I'm doing the math on Spicers page:

5.86 Gears
1:1 final drive
34" tires
2500 RPM 
=43MPH

If I have to regear, I'll be using something smaller

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Dec. 2019 at 4:10am
Were it me, I'd use the engine and running gear from the CJ-5 under the flattie body (please don't cut the hood--you can find a short carb somewhere).  That would be the easiest and quickest way to a driver.  Once you're mobile, drive it and ponder on what would be better (hint: not much, unless you wanna be a wild man).
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Memphis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Dec. 2019 at 10:41pm
One question I have and can't figure out. Is it better to run narrow 1.75" factory leaf springs or would I have a strong/positive increase in performance running say YJ leaf springs at 2.5"?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 3:38am
Originally posted by Memphis Memphis wrote:

One question I have and can't figure out. Is it better to run narrow 1.75" factory leaf springs or would I have a strong/positive increase in performance running say YJ leaf springs at 2.5"?
I don’t know anything about spring theory and I really couldn’t wrench my way out of a wet paper bag, but I have wheeled my stock suspension a lot in the last few years while in the company if people with non-stock suspensions. Except for the obvious advantage in SOME instances that a lifted suspension can give one, I have not observed any advantage to non stock springs and in some cases the stiffness of te non stock springs was a huge disadvantage.
Your mileage may vary.
Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Memphis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 12:20pm
Originally posted by Ol' Unreliable Ol' Unreliable wrote:

Were it me, I'd use the engine and running gear from the CJ-5 under the flattie body (please don't cut the hood--you can find a short carb somewhere).  That would be the easiest and quickest way to a driver.  Once you're mobile, drive it and ponder on what would be better (hint: not much, unless you wanna be a wild man).

Pretty sure the 2.2 is toast, the carburetor was left exposed to the elements for God knows how long and I drained a bunch of water out of the sump. Trans and Tcase saw the same elements and I am sure they are not much better.

Originally posted by Stan Stan wrote:

I don’t know anything about spring theory and I really couldn’t wrench my way out of a wet paper bag, but I have wheeled my stock suspension a lot in the last few years while in the company if people with non-stock suspensions. Except for the obvious advantage in SOME instances that a lifted suspension can give one, I have not observed any advantage to non stock springs and in some cases the stiffness of te non stock springs was a huge disadvantage.
Your mileage may vary.

My question about the spring width is because I have watched so many videos of your jeep, JP and Metcalf and they all seem to work so well. One point that was made on PBB was that companies that make "good" springs don't really exist for the CJ market now so YJ's are a good compromise
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 2:20pm
Sometimes I'm leary on getting into these conversations since there is really no right or wrong answers, but since you mentioned me specifically, I'll comment. These comments are based on the "Super Stock" criteria which means smaller skinny tires, 80” wheelbase.

If you want the same thing you see in our YouTube videos, all a super stocker "needs" is a stock set of springs, or maybe a set of early CJ5 springs. From my observation, The longer and more flexible springs are WAY more comfortable and look awesome in a "flex photo", but the flexibility can be detrimental because the transfer of weight to the wheels is not always there and with longer springs, the spring hangers are out in the kill zone.

One disadvantage about shorter stock springs, or just being stiffer in general, is that it is harder on your frame and other structural components. Over time, I have slowly shortened the length of my springs. Even though I am not as flexible as I was, I feel that my capability is improving for the above reasons. … but I have also noticed that my frame, spring hangers, e.t.c. are under more stress than they were. My frame has been bent and repaired at every single hanger. I never had that when my springs were longer. Compromises I guess, right Bob? In the end, I'll take performance over comfort and repairs.

WillyTJ has YJ springs on his flatty "Fritz". You might shoot him a PM.

Again, I'm no expert on suspension, but I am an expert on the videos you are watching.

Edited by jpet - 06 Dec. 2019 at 3:11pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 3:00pm
Originally posted by Memphis Memphis wrote:

 One point that was made on PBB was that companies that make "good" springs don't really exist for the CJ market now so YJ's are a good compromise

The no one makes "good" stock springs is probably kinda true. I'm sure one could pay some high dollars for a spring shop to custom make some "stock" springs that are better than the off-the-shelf brands. i know that my attitude is different than a lot of guys. I have Crown replacements on all four corners and after a few years of pounding the rocks I've had to replace them due to sag or bending. I think if I were just driving it to the show and shine they would never be an issue, but hard driving is the fun for me so replacing parts is part of the deal. i'd rather replace the cheaper ones than the high dollar ones.

Your build is going to be different than mine so a different set up might be better for you. 

I probably shouldn't comment on these modified threads since my experience is exclusively with locker/stocker class. And I'm a bit of a snob about it. Smile 

Stan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 3:13pm
The Walcks replacement springs are pretty good.

Local spring shops will make stock springs for around $150 per corner
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 3:16pm
When I watch Ron (willyTJ) drive fritz with YJ springs, he looks very flexible and very comfortable. His performance is the same as all of us.

That being said, I don’t like being dashed back and forth in a rock garden and more flexible springs along with low gearing help a lot with that.
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 5:06pm
I have CJ-5 springs under CHUG A LUG and they do give a nice ride compared to the shorter stock springs on a 2A or 3A. That said to put them on a 2A or 3A frame means you have to move the shackle mounts and spring hangers to keep the axles centered. I can't tell you how much as I also have a CJ5 frame under CHUG that has now been cut down in the back to fit. As I am not on the road yet I can't report on how my new springs behave. Heck I bought them over 12 years ago so I am not even sure from who. (LONG PROJECT).
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
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Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 5:51pm
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Compromises I guess, right Bob?  

That is always a problem. Still trying to figure a way around it!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Memphis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 6:41pm
Hey JPet, would you be interested in sending me your hammer form documents??
I have a tub to destroy Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Dec. 2019 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by Memphis Memphis wrote:

Hey JPet, would you be interested in sending me your hammer form documents??.....
All the dimensions are in the Hammer forms thread. What else do you need?
CJ2A #29110 "General Willys"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Memphis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Dec. 2019 at 10:03pm
Originally posted by jpet jpet wrote:

Originally posted by Memphis Memphis wrote:

Hey JPet, would you be interested in sending me your hammer form documents??.....
All the dimensions are in the Hammer forms thread. What else do you need?

I thought there was a printable file? It doesn't really matter I guess, I'll be transferring it to an MDF form because this will be one time use for me. 

I'll post some pics but I've started my HP D44 narrowing, removing the C's is a pain in the rear, I had to grind all the way through. The C's on the axle are junk so no big loss.
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