T90 shift tower rail plugs |
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47-old-red
Member Joined: 05 Nov. 2019 Location: PNW USA Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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Posted: 19 Feb. 2020 at 2:10am |
hi all i finally found the correct size freeze plugs for the front and back of the shift tower..... but i think the previous owner put a shift rail in backwards or something because it keeps popping the right rear plug out. the shift rail goes all the way back-flush with the end of the shift rail tunnel... that cant be right, right? any input greatly appreciated thanks!
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RSR_MK
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2009 Location: Cabool Mo Status: Offline Points: 657 |
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Tell us a little more information. Are both having the same issue? Have you had your rails out?
I just put one back together yesterday. From memory you should have something like 1/4 to 1/2 inch clearance to the plug from the back of the rail. I don’t think a rail in backwards would function at all, there are three places for the popit balls at the end that the plugs go in and only one on the other end. Could you have a fork on backwards? This is a pic I took before I went through mine, might help. Mike Edit. The plugs do not fit flush with the case, they protrude past the case. If your driving them in flush that could be an issue. Edited by RSR_MK - 19 Feb. 2020 at 2:32am |
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47-old-red
Member Joined: 05 Nov. 2019 Location: PNW USA Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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at 38:24 in this vid you see the rear plugs going in i used freeze plugs though.... so they go in about half an inch. the problem i am having is that the right side (the empty one in the video at that moment) the shift rail goes back far enough to push the plug out... but it drives and shifts great so im not sure if the forks are backwards or anything....
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RSR_MK
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2009 Location: Cabool Mo Status: Offline Points: 657 |
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Ok, popped the plug out on my tower. With the rail extended towards the plug it’s flush with the housing.
I’m not sure what folks are using to replace a missing plug but you will not have any clearance on the second/ third rail. See pic with plug removed. Mike
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athawk11
Member Joined: 18 Jan. 2012 Location: Arvada,Colorado Status: Offline Points: 4151 |
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1- 1946 CJ2A
2- 1949 CJ3A |
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RSR_MK
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2009 Location: Cabool Mo Status: Offline Points: 657 |
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Nice work. As you can see, I don’t put in as much time cleaning as I should. I’m glad there are some out there that do though. Spending an hour cleaning my tranny case with the powerwasher in 30 degree weather was about all I wanted.
Thanks for a great solution. Mike |
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47-old-red
Member Joined: 05 Nov. 2019 Location: PNW USA Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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ok i did more research and apparently everyone has this problem maybe they never came with rear plugs? there is no vent on this transmission..... i dont think anything on the jeep has a vent tbh how did you drill and tap the ends? id be really nervous about doing that.... i tried RTVing and JB WELDing a plate there to seal the rear holes.... but the air pocket of shifting flush always popped it off
Edited by 47-old-red - 20 Feb. 2020 at 6:09am |
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smfulle
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Ogden, Utah Status: Offline Points: 6141 |
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This thread has lots of info about how people have handled the leaky shift tower. One thing that some do is to pull the rails out and grind a little flat onto the round. That makes a space so that gear oil is not compressed and forced out the end. See the thread for more details.
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47-old-red
Member Joined: 05 Nov. 2019 Location: PNW USA Status: Offline Points: 84 |
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thanks
just posted there |
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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I used a plate at the rear like in Tim's (Athawk) post above, plus drilled holes on the under side (inside the case) of the channels so lube would go back into the case and not cause hydraulic pressure against the blocking plate.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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Hamhog
Member Joined: 05 Jan. 2008 Location: Havelock NC Status: Offline Points: 1670 |
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When I took mine apart, it didn't have any plugs in the rear holes. Just the two in the front. This is what the parts manual shows as well. Am I missing something? Also, I have a small aluminum bracket that seems to ensure the front caps remain in place (not shown in the parts manual). You can see it just in front of the shift tower, uses the two front bolts to mount in place.
Edited by Hamhog - 07 June 2020 at 1:27am |
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Dave
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JohnB
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 01 June 2014 Location: Saint Louis, MO Status: Offline Points: 393 |
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X2 - not sure if mine is original set up, but I have 2 "factory" plugs in the front (no extra bracket) and no plugs in the rear. My 2A is an early 47 but no idea if shift tower is original to the jeep - it could be.
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Hamhog
Member Joined: 05 Jan. 2008 Location: Havelock NC Status: Offline Points: 1670 |
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Here are a couple pictures of the bracket. Now that I look at it, it looks homemade. I can see tool marks in it where it was cut with a hacksaw maybe.
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Dave
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TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
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The plugs tend to be pushed out by hydraulic force with shifting. The bracket holds them in (home made part). The open end will leak, but the rails will push out plugs so I and others tap a hole between the rails and install a metal plate with sealant. Also I drilled some drain holes in the front facing rails from the inside to stop the hydraulic pressure that blows the plugs out.
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BOULDER 48 2A
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Hamhog
Member Joined: 05 Jan. 2008 Location: Havelock NC Status: Offline Points: 1670 |
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But if your Jeep doesn't leak, what will preserve it for the next generation? I'm going no plugs on the rear for posterity's sake.
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Dave
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