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Thumper gets another Mod

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sonoblast77 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sonoblast77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2021 at 9:01pm
I intend to put the electric e brake on my jeep. I thought about putting them on separate switches, like a poor mans cutter brake, but with a locker in the rear,  if i dont remember to turn the locker off first, i figured something  would  break or bind....  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec. 2021 at 11:41pm
would you mind posting pics and specs on how you modified the frame rails so that the rear springs will work please.

thanks, Jim
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Jan. 2022 at 8:14am
Originally posted by jeepsterjim jeepsterjim wrote:

would you mind posting pics and specs on how you modified the frame rails so that the rear springs will work please.

thanks, Jim


I didn't need to modify the frame to install rear springs in the front. I did however need to move both the spring and shackle mounts to accommodate the longer spring. I moved the spring mount back several inches and then moved the shackle mount as far forward on the frame horn as possible. So far after about 9 months of wheeling with it like this I have found to be happy with the results.

1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1
1942 GPW #70221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2022 at 3:54pm
I ran into a snag on the assembly of my flanged D44. I ordered new wheel end bearings and seals. The part #'s I ordered were as follows: Timken SET10 (Bearings), Timken 481837 (Inner Seal) and Timken 9912S (Outer Seal). My problem is the thickness of the bearing and outer seal together are too thick to fit in the axle tube under the retainer plate. I can't find any other part #'s calling out a different seal or bearing number that may be thinner. The machined area in the axle tube is just under an inch. The current bearing and seal combo I have measures at 1.17" When I removed the old bearings and seals I didn't think to look at the part numbers and I have already thrown them away.



Edited by AKoller - 07 Jan. 2022 at 10:18am
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1
1942 GPW #70221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Jan. 2022 at 4:08pm
My good friend Brian Evans (Bridog) just texted me and reminded me that the drum brake backing plates make up that distance. I'm converting this to disk brakes. The kit from Metcalf provides the spacers I need to solve this issue.

Edited by AKoller - 06 Jan. 2022 at 4:19pm
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1
1942 GPW #70221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2022 at 10:10am
I finally got all my parts in for the EE brake setup for the flanged D44. Last night I got everything setup. Now all I have left is to run the electrical and brake lines on the differential and with any luck I will get it swapped in this weekend.







1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
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1942 GPW #70221
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nothing Special Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Jan. 2022 at 9:26pm
This is a fun project to follow!  I went back to drum rear brakes on my Bronco to get back to a working e.brake.  Of course I haven't bothered to hook the cable up yet, so you know how that's going for me Embarrassed.  But I'm looking forward to seeing how this approach works!
Bob

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jan. 2022 at 8:28am
Out with the old and in with the new. On a side note, I may have a "gently" used 10 spline D44 with Lockright locker for sale.






The cheap Harbor Freight furniture dollies sure are handy around the garage for this kind of project.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2022 at 9:18am
More progress....

Installed the narrow track D30 this last week. I still need to wire in the Eaton E-Locker.



This weekend I made a mount for the Wilwood dual reservoir master cylinder to mount on the frame and got it installed. I ran all new brake lines. This week I will have my son pump the brakes while I bleed the lines. Seems like a good task for an 8 year old.





A few people have contacted me about the front and rear differentials that I have taken out. They have both been sold.
1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Feb. 2022 at 11:04am
Alan,   I imagine you already know this,   but several of us have had issues with the wire harness to the front E-Locker.   The "disconnect" can cause problems.   I think jPet and Sonoblast completely eliminated the connector.    I modified mine so that it is a little more secure.   

The problem is that it can either go completely open,  or induce enough resistance that the voltage to locker is lessened.    (The locker needs full voltage).

This is quote from my build thread:

Originally posted by JeepFever JeepFever wrote:

I think I have the little bugs out of Wilson, that occurred during Out West trip.  
 . . .

Also during the trip the front Elocker stopped working reliably,  . . .  I think I found the issue to be in the connector.   One of the wires may have pulled/vibrated loose.  

Note:  I pulled the wire out in photo below, on purpose,  to exaggerate what can happen.




There is a tab on the "spear" that is supposed to prevent the wire from pulling out,  but is not doing a good job on my connector.    I epoxied the spears into connector.



 . . .



Edited by JeepFever - 15 Feb. 2022 at 8:27am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Feb. 2022 at 6:58am
Thanks for the heads up Ron. I have been aware of this issue and plan on not using the connector at all. I don't even plan on using the factory harness. I'm just going to send 12v fused power straight trough the switch to the locker eliminating the relay as well. I'm honestly not sure why Eaton uses a relay in this system. Everything I have found the locker only pulls about 7 amps.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Mar. 2022 at 7:34am
The last month has been quite busy trying to finish up some projects on Thumper in time for EJS. Now that I have the electric park brakes on the rear end I removed the rock catcher from the backside of the transfer case. As you can see it has snagged a few obstacles over the last few years.



I also installed a new front driveshaft. I sourced this one from Tatton's Driveline in Utah. They build quality drivelines with the best components for less $$ than anyone else I talked to. The only downside is they were really busy and it took about 6 weeks to get. I wasn't in a hurry so it worked out fine.



Edited by AKoller - 28 Mar. 2022 at 10:13am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar. 2022 at 7:08am
I wired up the E E brakes on individual switches so they could be used as cutting brakes. With that said, I'm running an Yukon Grizzly (auto locker) in the rear so I won't be able to use them in that fashion. I just wanted to do it this way so if I would change the rear locker out to a selectable locker down the road sometime the brakes would be ready to go. Each switch function is run through a circuit breaker. I used 10 amp breakers on the "apply" circuit and 15 amp on the "release" circuit.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar. 2022 at 7:29am
The last major project I've been working on over the last month is a complete new steering system. I was running a factory CJ column out of a 1978 CJ7 and a manual Saginaw steering box. I never liked the looks of the CJ7 column in there. I got by with the manual steering box but always wished I had power steering while on technical trails.



I made a new steering box mount in the front frame horn and installed the box and got it plumbed up.





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar. 2022 at 11:48am
Great job! you are running the same front and rear diffs as I am. Also the same disc brakes. Please post more pics of your saginaw steering conversion. I  have the steering assembly out of a '74 cj5 to put in mine. Going to flip the steering linkage OR if the tie rod and draglink is not parallel +/-, I have the outer d44 flat top knuckles that I can use and then mount the steering linkage "under" so as to get the linkage correct.  keep up the good work!
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar. 2022 at 8:21am
I took Thumper out for the first test run since I swapped the axles and differentials yesterday evening. All together I drove around for about an hour. I spent the first 30 minutes out on my property testing lockers and just kinda playing around. The lockers seem to be working good.

So then I headed out on the road. I cruised around for about 25 minutes or so running at speeds between 30-45 MPH. Everything seemed good. The new rear end seems less noisy than the old one. I had noticed over the last year or so I was starting to get some bearing noise from the old rear end.

Overall I was pleased with the new axles and steering setup so I decided I wanted to see how it would do at highway speed. I took it up to a cruising speed between 60-65 MPH. Just like at 45 mph everything felt and sound good. Then all of a sudden I start to feel a bad vibration coming from the rear end. About the time I lifted off the gas pedal the back corner of the Jeep dropped and my wheel and tire passed me. The next 5 seconds was a lot scarier than any obstacle I've ever been on but luckily I got it stopped and pulled off on the shoulder of the road. A quick phone call to my brother in law and he was there with a cordless impact and a jack.

I'm running wheel spacers for clearance for the calipers with the KH wheels. The spacer came off with the wheel. After some evaluation I realized I never torqued down the wheel spacers on the rear axle. I installed them by hand when I still had the axle on the bench and forgot to address it before I installed the wheels and tires once installed under the Jeep. Just an oversight on my behalf. I'm glad no one was hurt including myself over the carelessness on my part.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeepsterjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 2022 at 11:21pm
Originally posted by AKoller AKoller wrote:

Over the last month I've been working on getting a couple differentials ready to swap into Thumper. I built a front narrow track D30 with a Eaton E-Locker and disk brakes. I installed Ten Factory chromoly axle shafts in it. For the rear end I'm building a offset flanged D44. I'm equipping it with a Yukon Grizzly and Fusion disk brakes. The Fusion brakes have the electric emergency brake. I will be glad to be able to get rid of the stock parking brake/rock catcher.

Here is the assembled narrow track D30. It was sourced from a 1978 CJ7.

Do you have pictures of how you wired the electric e-brake up?
 



This is the flanged D44 completely disassembled just after painting it.




I sourced the Yukon Grizzly, gearset and master install kit from Ron's Machining Service. His prices and service were both outstanding.



Here is the pattern I ended up with for the rear end. Good enough for the girls I go with.



Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2022 at 10:56am
Jeepster Jim, To wire the electric brakes I used DPDT switches. I wired the left and right individually just in case I would ever want to use them as cutting brakes down the road sometime. I currently cannot because I'm running an auto locker in the rear. The diagram below is how I wired them. I ran 12v fused power to feed the switches. I then wired in 4 individual circuit breakers after the switches. I used 10 amp breakers for the "brake apply" function and 15 amp breakers for the "brake release" function.


1950 CJ3A "Thumper"
1966 M151 A1
1942 GPW #70221
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