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Bob W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2021 at 5:50am
The front yoke holds the front output shatt in the front ball bearing, that is what locates its position.

I'm sure you know this, but just a reminder. Be sure the bearing  cones are seated outboard when you are checking the endplay in the shaft. 

Contrary to the service manual I am shooting for zero endplay on mine this time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Sep. 2021 at 6:50am
Thanks Bob!  I woke up at 4am and realized that without the front yoke and nut on you could move the shaft back.  Funny how sometimes the answer presents itself when your not thinking about it!

Thanks for the advice on the end play - I'll keep it close to zero as well.

I didn't have to chamfer the keyed thrust washer - the snap ring went right on no problem.  It was nice being able to work with that outside the case.

-Barry
1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2021 at 9:51pm
Today's progress:  I made decisions on what bolts to use for the front and rear bearing caps.  I had a mismash of hardware because both my transfer cases had been dissassembled by others.  After much head scratching I came up with a plan on what bolts would go where, and then started experimenting with shims to set the end play.  I ended up using 3  .028" shims which gave me .001" end play.  I sprayed on copper gasket sealer and assembled both bearing caps for good.  


Next I set the transfer case aside and started on the parking brake.  I got all the parts cleaned and primed - paint tomorrow plus I need to order a new set of parking brake shoes.

1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2021 at 9:12am
Sometimes little jobs turn into big projects.  When I started the lower gear t-case project I had picked the best transfer case out of the Jeeps sitting around here and just set the best pan aside figuring I'd clean it up later.  Well it's later and nearing completion so I scraped the crud off it and found that it was dented in at the drain hole and the plug threads were rusted thru.  I tried to bang the dent out and further damaged the drain hole - Back out to the "parts jeep fleet".  Here's the next best one I had.  Swiss Cheese.  I went ahead and heat and beat the area by the new intermediate gear into shape for clearance (just above my thumb) and figured I'd try to fix the holes.  I did consider Novak's aluminum pan but it would delay the project and the clearance issue would be an unknown.


Swiss Cheese.


Passivated to burn off all oils and loosen rust. Fresh out of the campfire - I let it get a little hotter than I probably should have.


Bead blasted then brazed.  Ron did the honors here.


Ground down a socket head bolt and washer to fit the adjusted area. Ready for primer and paint.



1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2021 at 1:42pm
I have the Novak aluminum billet pan. I like it because it eliminates one of the main leak sources I had, the warped stamped pan. It  clears my Tera Low gear set just fine and holds more gear oil than the stock pan. And it's purdy. 
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2021 at 5:44pm
Hi Stan!  Purdy is important - even if it's just us that knows it's there! Jeff's gears are wider and run into the pan in one spot requiring a little heat and beat sheet metal adjustment.  I don't know if the aluminum pan would tolerate that or be thick enough to clearance with a die grinder.  Anyhoo, if this one leaks too much I might ask Santa for a Novak pan and we'll see if it will work.  Afterall, who doesn't like a little bling on their underside!  (On their Jeep of course LOL)

-Barry


Edited by Barry S - 21 Sep. 2021 at 8:42am
1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2021 at 5:51pm
Not as purdy as Novak's but if it holds it's oil I'll be a happy camper!

1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2021 at 9:53pm
The T-case project is on hold for a couple days waiting for a new set of hand brake shoes to arrive so I  decided to tear the distributor apart.  I have noticed an excessive amount of side slop in the cam in my IAD 4008 even to the point that there are brass shavings on the dust cover from the rotor hitting the distributor cap terminals.  The gap is supposed to be .020" - I think there was even more side slop than that!  I'm surprised it even ran! I pulled the dizzy out and disassembled it and this is where the slop was.


A PO had attempted to fix the slop with a piece of thin aluminum wrapped around the shaft.  The shaft and cam/stop plate were both badly worn.  Luckily Ron had picked up a broken dizzy at the Spring Reunion to steal parts out of.  I got his left overs and lucked out with the parts I need for mine.  Between the two dizzys I have everything I need now except for a new roll pin.  I do have one small dilemma - the old cam/stop plate had a anti rattle spring that has one end anchored through a small hole.  The plate I have to use is not drilled for the spring.  I searched here on the page and found that some plates used a spring that just hooked over the edge rather than thru a drilled hole.  I think I'll just drill a hole in the plate and use the spring I've got.

1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep. 2021 at 8:42pm
Tonight's progress:  I picked up the roll pin at hardware store today (one of the GOOD stores with creaky floors) and when I got home I drilled the hole in the cam/stop plate for the anti rattle spring.  I also weighed the weights and confirmed that both sets were identical.  When I assembled it I could feel a bind on the weights.  On closer inspection I found this.


The one that had the anti rattle spring in it is on the right and as you can see, the factory moved the plate slightly to provide clearance for the spring.  The cam on the left had no spring so I left it out.  It seems there are lots of small differences between all the dizzys they used over the years.  I don't know what model the donor dizzy is - the tag is broken off.

After installing the weights, I bent the spring brackets outward to just barely have a little tension on each spring.  That held the weight pins at the innermost limit in the slots in the stop plate when
at rest.  Hopefully that will give the correct timing advance curve.


The rest of the assembly went smooth.  I installed new points and set the gap at .020" then cleaned them with folded paper when I was done.  I was going to use the new capacitor but I checked the values - new = .280uf,  old = .360uf.  I used the old one.  I love that there is no side slop in the shaft bearings or in the cam now.  A new cap and rotor makes this ready to reinstall in Grasshopper!



1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Sep. 2021 at 8:32pm
Installed the newly rebuilt distributor and adjusted the timing by ear.  I slowly turned the dizzy each direction until I heard the idle start to slow then I set it halfway in between.  Then I turned it a little at a time seeing where the engine had  the fastest pickup from idle when I hit the throttle.  Not very scientific but it ran good when I took it out for a joy ride today.


The new hand brake pads arrived so it was back to work on the t-case.  All went smooth until...
I try not to swear but I think I expelled a little "Blue air" when I discovered the speedometer gear laying on the bench after already installing the rear output shaft seal.  I didn't want to destroy the new seal so I took the handbrake parts and rear bearing cap back apart.  One step forward - three steps back!  I hated disturbing the shim pack.  The copper sealer was messy to work with but I got it done. 


All together and ready to install in Grasshopper!



I tried to order in a sealed bearing but could not get it in time for this weekend. In order to not hold up the install I'm just going to use the existing open bearing and run GL-1 in the transmission and this transfer case.
1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2021 at 9:20am
Yesterday I had to adjust the length of my ramps to fit in the short Willys wheel wheelbase.  Then I cut them loose from the blocks to get them out of the way.


Should have plenty of room to work underneath.  Wish I had that much ground clearance for rocks!


While it was outside on blocks I removed some covers and degreased and pressure washed the tranny and t-case.  An important step from Stan's "How To" list.  It will definitely be more pleasant to work on it not covered in grit and grease!




Moved in to the barn.  Ready for transfer case swap!

1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bobevans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep. 2021 at 9:18pm
Awesome progress!  I hope I get to see it in a couple of weeks.
'48 CJ2A

'56 DJ3A

'79 CJ7

And two of them actually run!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smfulle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2021 at 10:54am
Man, that big hole in the floor sure looks like it makes things easier to work on.
Your rig looks great.
Stan
48 CJ2A (Grampa's Jeep)
59 Chevy 1/2 ton
Grampa's Jeep Build Thread
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2021 at 2:02pm
Originally posted by smfulle smfulle wrote:

Man, that big hole in the floor sure looks like it makes things easier to work on.
Your rig looks great.

 I was eyeing that same thing... those guys don't know how good they got it.
1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty"
1964 Thunderbird convertible
..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2021 at 9:45pm
Yep, I really like this repop tub!  The big access holes are sooo nice and the wheel wells are 2" shorter like a 3A giving more leg room.  I don't know who made it - I've never noticed any markings.  On my next project rather than fight with the rusted out tubs I have I'll just order another one of these.
1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2021 at 10:35pm
So to update on the transfer case project.  

By the end of the day Saturday Grasshopper was in the barn up on blocks so I thought on Sunday I should be able to get the t-case swapped - silly me!

The first surprise was the nut holding the input gear to the tranny main shaft was not even finger tight - it was loose and the only thing keeping it from unthreading more was the cotter pin.  I have always had problems with it popping out of 2nd gear when decelerating.  Bob W was kind enough to send me a link to a Willys Service Bulletin from 1949.  The first thing it says is to "Tighten nut on end of main shaft".  So I am hoping to kill 2 birds with one stone.  While I have things opened up I am also checking the other items in the bulletin.  Any hoo, more on that shaft in a bit...

Pulling the old transfer case went smooth because of the large opening in the tub.  I couldn't get the pin out of the levers so I was able to lower it with them on.  Following Stan's advice I invested in a transmission jack for this project.  Wow what an injury saver!  As a teenager I used to lower the transmissions down on to my chest and then roll over with them.  Too old for that stuff now!  I'm glad I got the model with forward/back and side to side tilt.  It made it easy and controlled to thread the shift levers out.


So with the old transfer case out I found the next surprise - a cup washer hiding behind the input gear.  After picking the brains of folks with far more Wiilys knowledge than me on this page the consensus is that the part in question is a slinger and is not necessary.  I did however order a set  of various thickness shim washers to have on hand to fine tune the new input gear as it relates to the intermediate gear.


Finally, the most troubling surprise.  It may be hard to tell in the photo above, but the input gear being loose really screwed up the main shaft and splines.  I could not get Jeff's new gear to even start onto the shaft.  I tried his gear on another T-90 I have laying around and it fit perfectly, so the problem was definitely shaft damage.  I spent 6 hours filing and sanding while laying in an awkward position , wore out 5 brand new files, and used 10 ft of emery cloth.  Finally, today I bought a set of diamond files and got the shaft and splines finished up.

After a hard fought battle, this is the look of victory! The new gear fits perfectly!


Hopefully the rest of the install will go smooth - no more surprises!!

1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepFever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Sep. 2021 at 10:55pm
Barry,  your posts are so informative.  I am sure they will be a help for many '2A owners in future.   Great progress!

I wonder though, if a name change might be required after installing JPets gears?   Grasshopper will no longer be "hopping" over the rocks.  :-)   . .   you might want to keep the original name, however,   RockGlider does not seem as cool,  even if that is what you will be doing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Barry S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct. 2021 at 10:38pm
Project Update:   Lost all week to heavy service call load and lost Friday and Saturday due to preplanned outing with the camper so I started back in this morning (Sunday) once we got home.  

I wanted to address the 2nd gear popping out problem while the T-case was out.  I checked the end play on the transmission main shaft and found it to be a whopping .073" plus another .010" of play in the bearing sandwiched between the tranny and t-case.  I measured it by holding the bearing tight in it's recess on the tranny case and tapping the main shaft rearward to its limit.  Then I set the dial indicator to 0.  Then I tapped the main shaft forward to it's limit and the indicator moved backward.


The lock plate was really tight and had been hammered on.  I did not want to disturb it so I scored it most of the way thru with a small cut off wheel on a Dremel, then broke a section out to allow me to remove the bearing adaptor plate.  The plate gets locked in place by the t-case.


I thought by removing the plate I could use the shims I would add at their full OD.  Surprise! Where the shims ended up was right in the middle of the plate so I had to reduce the OD any way.  Having the plate removable made it much easier to get the bearing off though. 



I wondered why there was so much slop in the main shaft.  It is set by the sum of all the parts plus a spacer that is trapped between the rear shoulder and the bearing.  My spacer measured thinner than the spacer out of another tranny I have so I don't know what was correct.  The service bulletin says you can add a .030" shim between the shoulder and the shim to help.  I ended up using a total of .072" in shims and placed them between the spacer and the bearing because there was a groove cut next to the shoulder that they would have fallen into.  Here is the order I placed everything.


After the t-case and gasket was installed and the nut was properly torqued, the main shaft end play measured .008" and everything turned free and smooth.  Perfect!!


I was also concerned about how the main shaft position would affect the gear alignment.  It turned out very close.  I am happy.


The rest of the t-case install went pretty smoothly.  I made a couple of guide pins help locate the t-case into place.


Lifting into position with the tranny jack.



A couple of things to note.  To torque the input and output nuts I put the transmission into 2 gears at once to lock it up. Then I put the t-case into 4WD low range to lock it up also.  I torqued the input gear to 80ft lbs and looked to see if a slot lined up with the cotter pin holes.  Of course it didn't so I continued to tighten till they lined up.  It was at about 130 ft lbs at that point.  Good.  I torqued the companion flange and front yoke nuts to 110 ft lbs.  

 I had to pull the companion flange and brake drum back off because I left too much play in the threaded rod that connects to the brake lever.  The adjustment on the cable was not enough to take up the slack.  I could see the adjusting nuts through to holes in the drum but couldn't turn a wrench through them.  Next time I'll take almost all the slop out before assembling the drum.  

I noticed that the clutch pivot shaft was just barely over the ball on the transmission.  I ended up drilling new holes in the shaft to relocate the cotter pin on the frame side to move the shaft farther onto the t-case ball.  I made sure the felt pads, metal stop disks, and the spring were all in place.

I struggled to get the t-case shift levers and tension spring holes to all line up at the same time.  I took an extra pin and turned it around so the pointy end went in first and lined everything up.  Then I pulled it out and the regular pin slid right in.

All that's left to assemble is the shift tower and some sheet metal.  Note the socket head bolt by the welded on cover (blister) over the intermediate gear.  I had to grind the head down a little skinnier to clear.  Also, I had to adjust the length of some of the t-case mounting bolts to make sure they did not protrude into moving parts. 

I filled the whole system by pouring the GL1 right into the open transmission case rather than wrestling with the side fill holes.  Once the tranny was up to it's side fill, I added a little more at a time letting it run into the t-case.  Once it started coming out of the t-case side fill hole I knew it was done. It took exactly 1 gallon. 

Before I assemble the shift tower I'm going to try to tighten up the forks on the shafts.  They were installed with rivets that have worn and become very sloppy - contributing to the 2nd gear pop out problem.  I plan to replace them with roll pins.


A boy and his transfer case...



Edited by Barry S - 05 Apr. 2022 at 8:16am
1947 CJ2A 93664 "Grasshopper"
1947 CJ2A 90729
194? CJ2A 04893/194304
1946 CJ2A 46745
1946 CJ2A 36723
1945 MB   413665
1971 CJ5 8305017 375392 Drive train parts donor
Bantam Trailer T3-C 25487
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