1948 CJ2A restoration |
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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I have been unable to get back to my project for the last few months. I finally got some time to get back to turning wrenches and opening up the engine to see where I stand. I removed the homemade hardtop, and here's where I started tonight.
Removed the head bolts - three different sizes: Quite the variety of thread engagement and condition. Removed the head - something's missing: Um, there's no gasket! One more pic of where I left off tonight. LOTS of rust and corrosion in the cooling passageways, and a ton of carbon buildup on the valves. Needs a complete teardown and overhaul. Water pump has some corrosion on the impeller, but might be salvageable. Comments and suggestions are always welcome. This is my first teardown and rebuild ... on anything. Once I get the engine out and disassembled, what's the first step to get the engine cleaned and overhauled? Should I take it to a shop (wish we had a 'metal shaper' in Houston), and just let them go through it? Or do I take it to one shop for cleaning, another shop for boring and honing ... ? ... you get the idea. |
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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19Cargo42
Member Joined: 23 Apr. 2018 Location: Western Mass. Status: Offline Points: 570 |
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Call Vilas Motor Works in Bryan for an estimate. They are used to working with old engines like these. Be prepared for some sticker shock, though. Good machine work doesn’t come cheap.
Let us know what you end up doing. John
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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Thanks for the recommendation.
I am definitely going to have the machine work done, but until I get it torn apart, I’m not sure what is needed. After watching Brian‘s videos, I was thinking that I’d try reconditioning the valve seats myself. I don’t know what kind of work is involved in cleaning the engine block and re-honing the cylinders. I also don’t know if they will need to be bored oversize. When I used to be involved in motorcycle racing, a friend told me, “if you have to ask how much it costs, you can’t afford it.“ It seems that the same is true with rebuilding jeeps. You can see what shape the Jeep is in, so this is purely for maintaining my sanity. If I was worried about the cost, I wouldn’t have started in the first place. |
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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Howdy all, it's been a while since I've had time to update on my progress. I dismantled the jeep down to the frame. The body wasn't in any kind of shape to even try to salvage. I wasn't sure if the frame was good enough to save until I got the body off.
I would really like opinions on the condition of the frame, if you can tell from the pics. I was thinking that my next step will be to pull the engine, remove the axles and drive train and wire brush the frame. I was also thinking that it would be easier to overhaul the axles and transmission while they are out of the chassis. Comments welcome. My first restoration, so if I'm going off the rails here, please feel free to give me some words of caution. |
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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I have some updated photos, and some requests for help/information. The first one is the rear differential. It shows a stamped number plate with "43 / 8". See below. It looks like this is the gear ratio, number of teeth on the pinion and ring gear.
This next one has me concerned. The rear diff. was so dirty and covered with a dirt/oil pancake that I didn't see the hole. It looks like the differential cover has been punctured, and not from the outside. I haven't pulled off the cover yet, but this doesn't look good. I can only guess that a tooth broke off and impacted the cover. It must have been wedged between the cover and a rotating element to drive it through like that. Otherwise, the cover was damaged when it was off, and it was installed like this. The next pic is the passenger side leaf spring hanger. You can see that it's broken, and there's not much metal left. Mostly likely, I'll have these ground off and new gusset plates welded on. If anyone has any frame details on these, comments are more than welcome. This one is the driver side frame rail near the rear bumper where the wiring harness exits the frame rail. You can see the hole that has rusted through the bottom of the frame rail (look inside the frame - under the wiring harness). The material is pretty thin in this area. There will be a lot of small areas like this that need to be patched or repaired. I'm planning to strip the frame bare, and have it sand blasted and weld-repaired. I still don't have a shop lined up yet, but any suggestions are welcome. I'm in the Houston area. Merry Christmas to all, and best wishes for a Happy New Year!
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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Okay, one last post before Christmas. I got the rear differential cover off, and I wasn't far off the mark. One of the bolts that holds the ring gear in place snapped off (don't ask me how) and rolled around inside. I never found any debris, but there was a LOT of metal in the oil. I can only assume that the liberated piece was chewed up pretty good.
Pics of the diff. cover Here are some pics of the ring gear bolts and retaining clips. Merry Christmas everyone! |
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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dasvis
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 07 Sep. 2019 Location: Salem, Oregon Status: Offline Points: 1547 |
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Very common problem from what I have heard.
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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I made some more progress on the teardown, and have some questions for anyone who might know. The bellhousing has an oval opening - I think for maintenance and service. It's missing the cover, but I found a piece on the floor board on the passenger side when I was removing the body. It looks like this is the right cover.
The frame is in pretty rough shape, but I think it's salvageable. But it won't be cheap or easy. The engine seems to be in pretty good shape, except for the cracks in the webbing between cylinders 2 & 3 where the coolant passage runs between them. Now, the easy part --- spending money. Comments welcome.
Edited by gshockxcc - 26 Dec. 2021 at 8:34pm |
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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Bufordjeep
Member Joined: 12 Aug. 2009 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 506 |
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Yup, that's the cover.
Handy access hole for installing the clutch fork sometimes.
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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Thanks for confirming. I'll be sure to hold onto it. Looks like I found the transfer case skid plate, too.
In the pic below, you can see the stack of 3/16" fender washers (on the cross member - passenger side) that was used under the transfer case on the passenger side. There were two similar stacks of washers underneath the transfer case, as well, for a total of three bolts. Does anyone know what I should use to replace these? Do they look like this? https://walcks4wd.com/transfer-case-mount-bolt-kit-d-18_p_1683.html |
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1700 |
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That link for walcks should be right. Definitely not a pile of washers lol, anything but that is definitely an upgrade
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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Thanks General. Much appreciated.
I am planning to get the steering, suspension, and radiator off this week, and then the frame should be pretty much bare. Does anyone have any frame details or drawings? The frame has been welded and added on to in several areas, especially in the rear. I'd like to get it back to as close to original as I can, if possible. Thanks in advance.
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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Bruce W
Member Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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I fear I have been remiss in my duties.
There are very good drawings with measurements in section “R”, page 239, of the Service Manual for Universal Jeep Vehicles. You DO have a service manual, don’t you? There’s also a very good drawing on page 96 of the Parts List - Jeep Models CJ-2A and 3A. You should have one of them too. Tell ya what I’ll do - I have a very nice original frame without its body right now. If you’ll post pictures of the areas in question, I’ll post pictures of the same areas on my frame. BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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Steelyard Blues
Member Joined: 09 Oct. 2017 Location: Reno, NV Status: Offline Points: 1500 |
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In looking at your pictures, it appears to me that she has either been hit from behind or back into something pretty hard. I would suggest that, before you get her to the point that you can no longer roll her around, take her to a frame shop and have her checked out. They can probably pull her straight again. This may also prevent you from having issues in getting the body re-mounted correctly.
Micah Edit: In looking through your post and seeing she was a plow Jeep, I would really consider doing this.
Edited by Steelyard Blues - 27 Dec. 2021 at 11:52am |
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1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red
https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981 1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577 |
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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Yes, sir. I had actually forgotten that I had a copy. I just located my Universal service manual. |
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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You're not wrong. Before I do ANYTHING to re-assemble, I'm going to take the frame to a shop and have them do all the work that I can't, including make sure that it's straight. I know there will be some rail sections that I can't replace, and they will need to be weld-repaired. While that is being done, I can work on the axles, transmission, and engine.
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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General Eisenhower
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 24 Aug. 2018 Location: DE Status: Offline Points: 1700 |
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It's alright Bruce, it's the holidays and I think we can give you a pass
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I Like Ike!
1948 CJ2a "Hefty Horse" 1994 Jeep Wrangler Sahara 2016 Jeep JKU 75th anniversary edition |
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gshockxcc
Member Joined: 18 June 2020 Location: Houston, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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I need some feedback on the condition of this frame. I finally got it stripped this weekend, and I'm on the fence as to whether it's worth putting any money into it. The front isn't rusted as badly, but the abuse from plowing appears to have created a crack at the joint where the front tube meets the c-channel on the driver's side.
The rear is almost beyond repair, except for the c-channels, and they will require considerable repair, including the rear leaf spring hangers. Please take a look at the photos and give me your thoughts; thumbs up, thumbs down, and comments welcome. |
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1948 CJ2A 151470
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