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Qwaaazy8 CJ2A Build Thread

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Rick G View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 June 2020 at 11:54pm
Paul,  I thought with Brennans conversion, the rotor just slides over the hub and isn’t pressed onto it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 June 2020 at 3:54pm
Rick G,Our understanding is that the rotor should slide on as well, we found that the knurled part of even the stock studs protruded past the face of the hub, this requires you to drill out the rotor holes to accept the knurling, we decided we wanted to use the knurling of the stud to keep the rotor concentric to the hub, especially since the new studs have an even longer knurled portion and the rotors do not center on the hub boss. This was a decision we made to try and keep everything as concentric as possible. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2020 at 7:40pm
Wheel Restoration

Early last week I restored the 16" wheels - sandblasted and painted - before having the new Goodrich KM3's mounted and balanced on them.

After going through nearly 200lbs of blast media I was ready to paint. I just used various Rustoleum spray paints - primer, paint, clear coat. I enclosed part of my back patio to knock the wind down for a better painting environment.




After many coats I was pleased with how things cleaned up. 




With the wheels ready I needed to get the tires mounted and balanced. After calling around to several shops I was told they are swamped and couldn't do it until the middle of next week. I had hopes of making some big progress over the holiday weekend that depended on the wheels. I reached out to my mechanic neighbor and he ran up to work late one evening to mount them. They look great on the ground, couldn't wait to see them on the Jeep!





Extended Weekend, Extended Jeep Time

Andrew, Dustin, and I were all off work on Friday and we had plans to use the long weekend as much as we could. To beat the heat, and since between the three of us we had commitments for the holiday in the afternoons, I opened the garage about 6:30am Friday and Saturday morning. 

Armed with a mobile shop for the weekend, things went pretty smoothly on Friday. While Dustin and Andrew worked on getting the front brakes together I worked on replacing the tie-rod ends and doing a rebuild of the drag link. 









Originally we torqued the new tie-rods to 60ft/lbs based on a spec we found online. I'm not sure where that number comes from, but doing that resulted in zero steering movement. We decided to follow some other advice and tighten it down to just before impacting the steering performance and rely on the castle nut to hold things in place.

Jeep Education

I have really wanted to catch up with Brian (Bridog) and Dylan, I also wanted Andrew and Dustin to meet them and see some of the fabrication that Brian has done on his families Jeeps.

We cleaned up around lunch and drove an hour North to visit Brian and Dylan. I didn't capture any pictures, but we got to see the cool work that Dylan is doing for his Jeep, Elmo, as well as some of what Brian has set up on Blueberry. 

(Thanks for letting us come up and visit Bridog!)

After a nice visit we headed back to my house to wrap up a few odds and ends to get to a decent stopping point before calling it a day. We also test mounted two of the wheels. The new, longer, wheel studs seemed to be a great fit. They had a perfect amount of knurling to allow the rotor to be pressed on and secured with a great stud length for the lug nuts. We discussed the status of the back and decided the stock stud length would suffice, even though it doesn't have full engagement it is well past the minimum engagement required to hold torque based on industry standards.






Give me some SPACE!

Saturday morning Andrew and I started to survey what steering looked like with the larger wheels. With the stock steering stop we were rubbing the springs at full lock. One of the project requirements is that the Jeep's max steering angle be preserved, it's already bad enough without bringing it in. The solution was clear, we needed some wheel spacers.

Using washers we spaced the wheel out a 1/2" and were very close to being free from rubbing. I did some googling and wasn't finding any great options, 1" to 1.25" seemed to be what was available - but I really didn't want to wait until the middle of next week for that, nor did we need that much space. 

Andrew and I were talking it over and he asks "why don't we just make them?"... I fired up Fusion and began to sketch it out. 

Pretty soon we had a model for 3/4" spacers that we believe should hold up. We would use the lug nuts to hold it on the studs of the wheel hub. I didn't like the idea of relying on pressed studs in aluminum to hold the wheel on - so we designed these to use grade 8 bolts threaded into the spacer to act as studs to hold the wheel on.




With the model in hand we headed to the robotics shop to see what material we had around and make these a reality.



Saturday's are for... Machining?

We were able to find a few scrap pieces of 3/4" material that would work for the spacers. Andrew cut them down, squared them up, and prepped the material into the 7" squares while I got to work on CAM'ing the parts to run on the CNC. (CAM - Computer Aided Manufacturing - often used as a verb to mean program the CNC machine). 



With the material ready I faced each side (made it flat and sized it to be exactly 0.75" +/- 0.005") and then we bolted it down to our fixture plate to start doing the real work.






Sometimes, mistakes happen. I thought I had checked all of my travel moves to avoid the nuts we were using to hold things down. It turns out my software wasn't showing me ALL of them like I remembered. So I missed one... as you might expect the speeds used to cut a soft metal like aluminum are much different than what is used for steel. Suffice to say, I destroyed that 1/2" end-mill. 



The tragic thing here is the last time we were in the shop with students we broke a 1/2" end-mill. So here I went breaking a brand new one. Dang. I made some adjustments to the travel moves on my programs and we carried on.

After another few operations we had our first spacer. The second one quickly followed.






At this point I'm hoping to just run front spacers. By our estimates if I run them on the back there is a large chance of hitting the outer sheet metal of the wheel well - want to avoid that.

The machining took longer than expected, and since I had a party to in the afternoon we did some finishing hand work on the spacers, cleaned up, got the bolts we needed and called it a day. 


Reworking rework

Andrew and Dustin came around 11am on Sunday, shortly before they arrived I started to mount the front wheels with our new spacers. To my dismay I discovered that our new wheel studs - the nice longer ones - weren't going to work with our spacers. The lug nut was just shy of being able to tighten the spacer to the wheel hub...




We had to pull the front hubs off, again, and switch back to the stock wheel studs. At this point I've lost track of how many times Andrew has had the pleasure of switching wheel studs. 



On the bright side, the stock wheel studs are the perfect length. We discovered we didn't have to cut the studs down despite having only 3/4" spacers.



We reinstalled the hubs, put the tires on, and did a tape measure alignment with the new tie-rods.



I don't have a picture but the 3/4" spacer seems to be nearly perfect in this case. No rubbing. There is a chance it could graze ever so slightly in certain situations, but I'm not worried about those.

We bled the brakes, fixed a few flares that were leaking, and now have a nice firm brake pedal. The only bummer is that we couldn't take the Jeep for a spin to test out the changes!


Starting on the body

With the mechanical changes behind us for now we started figuring out how we can modify the body to enable Andrew and his 6'7" frame to drive the Jeep.

We set the tub back on the frame and started measuring, drawing, and discussing what we can do.



One big requirement is that we minimize any losses to suspension travel as much as possible. We started by doing a rough mark of how far we expect the tire to tuck into the wheel well if we are on the bump stop.




Looking at the expected wheel tuck we realize in the stock suspension configuration it's going to be a tricky thing to pull off. Our conversation slowly leaned towards: "Let's make the seating work, and we'll tackle the consequences as we find them." - of course we will do what we can as we go to limit issues, but we'll deal with them as we find them. This goes against my usual "let's have a full gameplan" mindset - but I think in this case it's the most efficient way to go.

We knew roughly how far back the seat needs to go, so a few more marks and Andrew began carving things out.



Soon enough we were able to start positioning the seat in and making adjustments forward and back as well as elevation adjustments. 

Some of what we learned:
  • bring the front of the seat up to better support the thighs
  • allow the seat to slide as far back as possible
  • a smaller steering wheel is necessary - 13" to 15" is ideal
  • modifying the shift levers to bend slightly towards the passenger will enable better knee positioning while driving

(For those wondering, the jack is to support the floorboard that is nearly all but gone under the fuel tank)

With this new information we were at a good stopping point. Our next steps are to fabricate some seat frames with adjustable sliding seats - the plan is to modify the factory seats to mount to a sliding base. Once we have the seating figured out on the driver side we can replicate it on the passenger side and then move on to replacing the floor and hat channels.



Edited by pts211 - 06 July 2020 at 7:44pm
Paul S - son of Ricco
1947 CJ2A - "Walker"

1948 CJ2A a.k.a. "Lumpy" (Dad's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Flatfender Ben Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 July 2020 at 4:15am
Awesome progress!
I really like those tires. 
Thanks for sharing. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 July 2020 at 10:08pm
Welding Woes

Early last week we gathered back at my house to start welding things together. Andrew tried giving his MIG welder a shot with flux core but was getting some nasty welds. My buddy James came to assist, he happens to have some formal welding education in his past and a TIG welder for hobby projects of his. Unfortunately, his place doesn't cater well to Jeep work so I got him set up to weld at my house with his welder.

He gave it a shot, but wasn't having good results.



He thought it might be his argon blowing away, we held a box around him, no good. There were several other factors making us think this wasn't the way to go. We cleaned up and decided we needed to give MIG another shot. Andrew's MIG welder could accept gas, we just needed a bottle. We decied to get C25 shielding gas and ditch the flux core and give it another go.

The rest of the week we were all busy with non-Jeep life. Throughout it Andrew and I searched around for where to borrow/rent a tank of C25. I gave one of the robotics coaches from a sister team of the one I mentor a call, we talked a bit and he ended up suggesting we try their welder out. They have a nice TIG welding set up, proper power, gas, etc. As that was figured out Andrew was able to find a co-worker that would lend us his tank of C25 for the project. Now with the option to TIG or MIG we knew one way or another we'd get things going. Not only that, but we now had permission to use the robotics shop over the weekend to work in - we get to stay out of the heat!


Welding - Take #2

Friday evening Andrew and I loaded the tub and supplies into my truck and started to get set up at the shop for the weekend.

Don't worry, the shop is less than 1/4 mile from me - the tub was safe hanging way out of the truck. Smile




As we were getting set up James and Dustin joined in and we got to work. 

James started off TIG welding the wheel well cover in, ultimately that was a little too slow going so we switched over the the MIG welder for the rest of the weekend. 




Sliding Seat Fabrication

While James welded the wheel well panels in Andrew and I started looking at how to mount the seat sliders I got. (Universal Bucket Seat Slides from Amazon: https://amzn.to/32fM0Ks)

By the end of the evening we had the slides tacked to the seat frames. 



Saturday morning Dustin, Andrew, and started to figure out the frame to mount the seat to the tub. Andrew quickly cobbled together a frame he thinks should work. 



After these legs were done we started to look at what mounting looks like and quickly discovered that with the old floor being anything but flat it was going to be a guess as to the correct mounting. We decided we knew enough about how we plan to mount the seats to put that on the back burner and start doing the major body work, replacing the floorboards and hat channels.


Driver Floorboard
We flipped the tub on its side began cutting away the driver's floorboard.



With the bad steel removed we used cardboard to template the new sheet metal that would fill it in. I bought 18ga cold rolled steel for our main sheet metal work.



Andrew really ran with getting the first sheet to fit, after a LOT of grinding we were able to clamp the new metal in place. 

We've not done much sheet metal, during our visit the previous weekend Bridog suggested we look into getting some butt clamps. Big shout out to him for that suggestion! They make holding the material in place to work with it super easy when doing sheet metal. Link: https://www.harborfreight.com/butt-welding-clamps-8-pc-60545.html




James got started welding the panel in. Another tip Brian had given was to invest in some copper welding spoons. They were a great help to prevent burning through the thin sheet metal while welding. Another very useful tip! Link: https://amzn.to/305sBZY

In my limited welding experience I knew it might take a bit, but now I understand. After a few hours James had the sheet welded in.



In the above picture, take not of the 1x1 tubing clamped at the top. Andrew and I planned to add rock sliders to the Jeep as part of this project. As Dustin and I were looking at things earlier in the day we noticed that 1x1 tube can mount nearly flush along the bottom and hide behind the tub metal. We're mounting that in to:
  • provide more strength to the outside of the tub - especially since a lot of the metal on the edge was patched or just thinner than we'd like
  • add support to the floorboard and seats
  • provide more rigid mounting options for rock sliders
We got the 1x1 welded along the edge and started to test fit the new hat channels (I bought reproductions from classic enterprises). We don't have any good positioning indicators to know where to mount the hat channel anymore, so we are going to hold off on those until we can set the tub back on the frame to tack the channels in. In the meantime, we got going on the passenger side.


Passenger Floorboard: SO MUCH BONDO

We knew the passenger side was going to be trickier. There was a lot more rust, and missing metal in general, plus the toolbox.



As we cut it out we started to notice some new challenges. Between bad patches and bondo... this side isn't going together as nice. The interior of the toolbox along the outer tub wall has random pieces of sheet metal that are hastily tacked in place and made nice by a bunch of bondo on the outside of the tub to clean it up.



Now I knew there was bondo on this thing, but I think we all underestimated just how much exists in some areas. We discovered this early Sunday afternoon and were really needing to unwind from another long weekend of Jeep work. We decided to pack up and revisit this week. 

I think that we can make it work as it is, but it also might be easier to cut out most of the passenger side tub wall along the floor and replace that as well. Updates to come!

Paul S - son of Ricco
1947 CJ2A - "Walker"

1948 CJ2A a.k.a. "Lumpy" (Dad's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2020 at 8:19pm
Last night I met Andrew at the shop to get another opinion on how to proceed. The plan is to remove the bondo stuff to expose the metal, cut out the bad metal, and replace it. Just like that, hopefully.

I don't personally have experience with Bondo. Does anyone know if this stuff is in fact Bondo or something else?




Paul S - son of Ricco
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rocnroll Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2020 at 8:40pm
Looks like it from here!

Keep up the good work!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 July 2020 at 9:05pm
That's not bondo.

That's BONDO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Millennium falcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 July 2020 at 2:13pm
Great thread guys! Keep up the good work!! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dozer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2020 at 12:05am
Just in case you can not tell from Paul's pictures that is every bit of 1/4 inch of BONDO covering the majority of this side of the jeep. I did some exploritory grinding on what we thought was a crack on the back of the body and found it was just a crack in the almost 3/8 of BONDO over the dent. Needless to say if we sand blast this tub I don't know how much tub we would have left, but I do know it would be MUCH lighter without all the Bondo. I think the name Bondo might make it into the running for this jeeps name. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Joe Friday Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2020 at 12:17am
Was the Bondo to hide the rust? or just to straighten bent panels and hide dents?

Some types of BONDO come off with a propane torch and a putty knife (wear a respirator).

If the edges of the panels are straight, I admit I've cut the whole side off 1" in from the edge and used a panel flanger to make the whole side from a single sheet of .060 CRS and just mig'd it in place and used a flap wheel followed by 100 grit on a dual action sander to get smooth sides with no filler.
You obviously can't get to most of the inside to clean up welds, but I get the impression that might not be a showstopper for this one.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2020 at 5:56pm
Originally posted by Joe Friday Joe Friday wrote:

Was the Bondo to hide the rust? or just to straighten bent panels and hide dents?

Some types of BONDO come off with a propane torch and a putty knife (wear a respirator).

If the edges of the panels are straight, I admit I've cut the whole side off 1" in from the edge and used a panel flanger to make the whole side from a single sheet of .060 CRS and just mig'd it in place and used a flap wheel followed by 100 grit on a dual action sander to get smooth sides with no filler.
You obviously can't get to most of the inside to clean up welds, but I get the impression that might not be a showstopper for this one.


As far as I can tell it was largely to straighten it all out and hide dents. There are clearly some rust cover-ups here and there, but there's a lot of good steel as well. Going to try go avoid cutting off the entire sides on this one - making it trail worthy is my main focus, cosmetically as long as it looks decent I'll be happy.
Paul S - son of Ricco
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 July 2020 at 6:29pm
Toolbox Repairs

Throughout this week been focused on getting ready to install the new passenger floorboard - but first, needed to address a few things.

Passenger side:
I mentioned previously that there was some pretty questionable patching done and really no good way to weld in a new sheet along the side. After a bondo investigation we found some good metal, cut out the bad, and welded in a piece to replace the worst part of the section.







James got a little bit too much heat into the sheet metal while going around and we got some warping. Nothing a hammer can't fix. 

With the side panel in place we are nearly ready to weld in the new floor, but first I wanted to do some rust prevention to the toolbox. Andrew and I wheeled the body out into the alley and I sandblasted the inside. We were fighting the sun, thankfully Dustin had his truck with plenty of bright lights all over it to help me see what I was doing.



Once it was cleaned up we wheeled it back in and I threw a coat of spray paint on the inside. I intentionally did not paint the lid to the toolbox, nor will I. It is likely that nearly all of the original paint will be covered/gone by the time I'm done - EXCEPT the toolbox lid. I plan for that to be the one lasting reminder of this Jeep's Luzon Red history.



One thing that I had yet to call out is the reinforcement that we added to the toolbox. You'll notice a clean piece of sheet metal welded on the wall nearest the passengers feet. It would have made sense to cut out the metal and replace that part, but I had no idea that "Jeep" would be stamped in the sheet metal here. I think the stamp is special and show's it's originality - so instead of removing the panel we just added a backing plate to it.



I'm still not sure who would've thought, of all places on the Jeep, that this was a good place to stamp. It seems so relatively hidden, but is a neat subtle touch.

With the toolbox (mostly) cleaned up we are about ready to continue. The plan is to replace one of the hat channels in the toolbox with some 1.5"x0.75" steel tube I picked up, then get the floorboard in later tonight or tomorrow. Once that is wrapped up we'll move on to test fitting the body to get the new hat channels aligned and tacked.

Paul S - son of Ricco
1947 CJ2A - "Walker"

1948 CJ2A a.k.a. "Lumpy" (Dad's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2020 at 8:29pm
Closing the box

Last Friday we started another working weekend, Andrew kicked it off by removing the rear bed cross-member in preparation for the new steel tube we are using to replace it. I was impressed with how good of shape sections of the wood was in, even after 70 years.




Once that was out James began to tack in our new material. For this we're using 1.5"x0.75" steel tube that is 1/8" thick - overkill, maybe.



With the cross-member in place we moved back to the toolbox where James tacked in the new floor pan and toolbox bottom.




Saturday Andrew really pushed the project forward on his own. I had a few graduation parties to attend for my robotics seniors so was in and out. 
Andrew finished fabrication of the toolbox enclosure and got that tacked in before doing the final beads for the passenger floor.







Putting on our hat (channels)

With the floors in it was finally time for us to get the hat channels on. At this point we had lost nearly all of our reference points. We planned to set the body on the frame, position the hat channels where they needed to be, tack them in, remove the body and weld them in.

It was CRAZY hot over the weekend, and ultimately we would want to do the welding inside. Instead of relocating to my house and back with the welder and body we opted to bring the frame to the shop. Lucky for Andrew and I, my dad came by for a visit and was able to help us get the frame moved to the shop.






Around this time I had to step out for a few hours. In the meantime Dustin joined to help and keep Andrew company as he continued on the hat channels. 

By the end of the night the new hat channels were in place and looking great.





Seats Body Mounts

Andrew was busy most of the day Sunday but Dustin and I met in the afternoon to continue work on the driver seat frame now that the body was finally in a good spot. We figured it'd be easiest to work on if it was on the frame. We had yet to drill some of the mounting holes through the new metal and actually attach the body, so we started on that.

As with everything, it takes longer than expected. We were able to get bolts in the hat channels, but then looked at the back and were reminded of the four mounting points along the back edge of the body. Of these four, the two on the passenger side were broken off. Great. Totally forgot about that.



Dustin was on it though. The two mounts were still bolted to the frame where they had a clean break from the body. Dustin got the bolts out, and what was left of the brackets. To my surprise they both fit like puzzle pieces along the seam where they snapped off. Dustin as able to weld them back and we were good to go.




Driver Seat Frame

With most of the body mounting bolts lining up we were finally ready to start looking at the seat frame.

First up, we drilled the new holes for the fuel tank and got it in place.



With the fuel tank set in the Jeep we started to asses the seat frame that Andrew and I had been working with before all these body repairs. We noticed a few things:
  • the seat slides were not perpendicular to the seat frame, so it'd slide funny.
    • no big deal as things are just tacked together so could adjust 
  • the frame we made was a little short
    • we were counting on the floor coming up a little, but no luck
As were were thinking this through Andrew was able to come up for a little. We discussed options and decided to revisit how we do the frame. The tricky part is around the transmission tunnel. Dustin fired up Inventor and drew up the model. The three of us discussed how the mounting will look and agreed on a layout.



At this point it was getting late. Once we agreed how to proceed with the seats we got to cleaning up, loaded the frame back up to come home with me, and called it a day. 


A little more touch up

As much as I want to just say screw it and leave the body as it is, I went to the shop last night and was looking at the passenger wall. After removing more of the Bondo layer I found some pretty bad sections that I really don't want to leave. I cut out a few more small sections for us to weld in when we work tonight. 



Tonight we should be able to make good headway on getting a driver seat frame and mounting situation, I'm excited to see what that look like.
Paul S - son of Ricco
1947 CJ2A - "Walker"

1948 CJ2A a.k.a. "Lumpy" (Dad's Jeep)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jw60 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2020 at 3:02am
Keep up the good work! Being just down the road in Sedalia MO. I'm eager to cross paths sometime.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2020 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by Jw60 Jw60 wrote:

Keep up the good work! Being just down the road in Sedalia MO. I'm eager to cross paths sometime.

Thanks! And absolutely, once this is all done we'll have to meet up - perhaps go wheeling somewhere around here.
Paul S - son of Ricco
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tamnalan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 July 2020 at 5:58pm
Great stuff Paul!  You're motivating me to tackle a similar cj project.

Useless "Walker, Texas Ranger" info - Clarence Gilyard played Sgt Trivette in the show.  I know his brother Reggie - we were USAF officers stationed together in Los Angeles in the early 90s.  Great guy.
Alan Johnson
1942 MB - "TBD"
1943 MB - "Lt Bob"
1950 cj3a
M-100 x2
teardrop camper: https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?f=141&t=201740
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pts211 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2020 at 9:30pm
Final Body Welds
A week ago we made it back to the shop to finish welding up the repairs needed to fix the passenger side tub. Aside from the side steps, this should conclude the major body work!




Back to the Drivers Seat
With the body finally done it was time to get our seat situation finalized. Andrew and I constructed the frame as we had it from the layout Dustin and I had worked on. When we did a test fit of the seat once we had enough to visualize it.



We realized our angled foot was WAY too drastic and and that we would be better off decreasing the spacing between the seat slides to fix that angle. (Originally we were going to make it work because it was already welded up, but as we worked we discovered that things weren't square enough and had to be redone anyways).

We cut things apart, adjusted our model and cut a new leg. This looked much sturdier, we think it'll be a better way to go.




Andrew got the frame welded up, again. Third time's a charm, right? 



With that we had the seat ready to go. Next up we had to get the body ready to go back on the frame.


Fresh Paint, and some Bondo
With the welding finally finished it was time to cover up the new metal to keep it clean. Lucky for me, my buddy Josh was in town for the weekend. Josh and I are no strangers to painting projects at the robotics shop. He helped me set up our temporary paint booth so we could be ready to spray.




We moved the body into our booth and applied bondo to the side to clean it up. Once that was dry we shot a coat of primer and then came back the next day and shot a coat of white. 






Now that the paint has had some time to dry we have just a few more things to take care of before mounting it back on the frame!
Paul S - son of Ricco
1947 CJ2A - "Walker"

1948 CJ2A a.k.a. "Lumpy" (Dad's Jeep)
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