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T18 transmission help |
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hotrod59 
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Joined: 28 Dec. 2017 Location: Boise, ID Status: Offline Points: 107 |
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 Topic: T18 transmission helpPosted: 25 June 2020 at 4:35am |
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I recently put a Ford T18 transmission in my Jeep. I used a USA standard rebuild kit and a novak adapter kit to adapt to the spicer 18 transfer case. Once everything was installed and running, 2nd gear is hard to shift into. I have checked the clutch adjustment, and it’s ok. The shift forks look ok and don’t look bent. I was told that the 2nd gear synchro might be installed incorrectly? Below are a couple of pictures and a video of what it’s doing and the synchro assembly for 2nd gear. Any help is appreciated.
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1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ" |
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JeepFever
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Posted: 25 June 2020 at 4:47am |
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I can't help with issue, but wanted to mention how cool it is to have a video to show what is going on. That very clearly shows what is happening from the driver's point of view.
Good luck! Hopefully someone here has a simple fix. Oh, you are going to love the combination of granny low and Dauntless, once you get it sorted out. :-)
Edited by JeepFever - 25 June 2020 at 4:49am |
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Willys Motors
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Posted: 25 June 2020 at 4:49am |
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Looks like the springs on your synchro blocking plates are out of place at the very least. Are you sure the 1-2 synchronizer hub isn't in backwards?
Looks very different than my T98 anyway Edited by Willys Motors - 25 June 2020 at 4:57am |
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hotrod59
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Posted: 25 June 2020 at 4:52am |
I really don’t know. I can’t find a picture or diagram anywhere of the synchro. I am fairly sure it’s right?
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1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ" |
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Willys Motors
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Posted: 25 June 2020 at 5:07am |
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hotrod59
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Posted: 25 June 2020 at 5:08am |
No that is not it. That is a early version of the T18. I have a later version.
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1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ" |
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oldtime
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 12:55am |
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Hmmm.
Hard to say without the ability to see it. But here’s s couple of possibilities. The synchro hub and sleeve should have been marked prior to disassembly. So ‘m guessing that was not done and the synchro hub/ sleeve clocking is now mis-aligned. Another problem sometimes occurs because the quality of the spring under the synchronizer plates is way overly stiff with some after market rebuild kits. That could effect the motion of the synchro plate along the synchro hub. No doubt that other less common possibilities do exist.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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oldtime
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 2:19am |
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I suggest you put trans into neutral and remove the shift tower.
Then note position of shift forks and make sure all gears are in neutral. Shift it into second by hand. You should be able to see if something like the synchro plates are binding or whatever the problem may be. If it shifts smoothly by hand then the problem must be in the shift tower.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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hotrod59
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 4:18pm |
I did mark the hub/sleeve when is was disassembled and re-installed in the same position. I also did not replace the retaining spring. The shift hub/sleeve moves by hand with the shift tower off. I did not disassemble the shift tower and nothing appears bent/broken in the sift tower.
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1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ" |
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oldtime
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 4:33pm |
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Sounds right to me.
But in your second pic things don’t look right to me. Notice how the blocking ring is fully exposed ? That just looks wrong. I no longer have my Borg Warner catalog covering the post 1979 T18’s so.... Let me go an take s pic of my pre 1979 version....
Edited by oldtime - 26 June 2020 at 4:38pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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hotrod59
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 4:40pm |
That would be great. I have the collar shifted as far back as possible, thats why everything is exposed. Im about to order a new hub/gear/synchro assembly. I would like to try and avoid that.
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1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ" |
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oldtime
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 5:31pm |
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Here you see the rear synchro assembly fully engaged into the synchronized gear that I prefer to call 1st gear.
(not in low gear)  Here you see the transmission fully shifted into neutral.  Here you see the outer sleeve moved all the way to the rear of case where it normally is not shifted. It’s only positioned here for reference so you can see the the placement of blocking plates inside the synchro hub and fitment of the blocking ring.  |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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oldtime
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 5:36pm |
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In your pic the bronze blocking ring is not up inside the synchronizer sleeve as it should be on “all” Borg Warner transmissions.
Edited by oldtime - 26 June 2020 at 5:51pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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Willys Motors
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 5:58pm |
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Ken, I ABSOLUTELY agree with your diagnosis.
I didn't mention that because I can't figure out where to extra 1/4 in axial slop came from that allowed all the parts to go together without that blocking ring fully seated. |
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oldtime
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 6:06pm |
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Here is an excerpt covering that specific portion of re-assembly as taken from the 1972 technical service manual........
From the rear of the main shaft, install second speed gear rear snap ring, blocking ring, second speed synchronizer unit and snap ring. NOTE: Second speed synchronizer sleeve shift fork groove must be towards rear of main shaft Yes Willys Motors not sure how he was able to assemble it like that. But I recall helping a guy redo his T 90 for virtually the same problem. Blocking ring was not up inside the synchro sleeve.... On the T90 I seem to recall that the synchro hub assembly was put onto the mainshaft backwards or something like that. So yeah I’m thinking the synchro hub may be reversed... Also note too how his synchro plates are way out ahead of the synchro hub. That just can’t work like that.
Edited by oldtime - 26 June 2020 at 6:26pm |
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
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hotrod59
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 7:23pm |
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Thank you for the information. I found this video on youtube, the man is disassembling a main-shaft. If you look at the 11:25 mark he slides the gear off and it looks like how mine is assembled. I dont think it is assembled incorrectly.
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1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ" |
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oldtime
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 7:44pm |
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I glanced at the video and I sure did not see it was ever assembled the way that yours is.
Take it for what it’s worth but I’m virtually positive that your synchronizer hub was put backwards onto the main shaft. The only trouble on my end is that I cannot see enough detail of your hub because the synchro sleeve covers over it.
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Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963) Zero aftermarket parts |
|
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hotrod59
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Posted: 26 June 2020 at 8:56pm |
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This is what I am seeing in the video. There you can clearly see the gap between the hub and brass ring. I dont know if the one he is tearing down in the video is correct but it looks the same as how mine is set up.
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1948 Luzon red CJ2A No name yet
1952 CJ3A "SPUDZ" |
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Willys Motors wrote: