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new wiring harness for 472A

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GloucesterBoy View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 July 2020 at 5:43pm
Hey Fella's,
 Yesterday I received my new wire harness for my 472A( Walcks 4th of July 10% off sale). I plan to jump in a couple nights this week. I searched through our "How To" section for for wiring harness helpful hints (do' & don'ts), but didn't see anything.

Do any of you have experience in this project task and like to share info with me? I have little experience with auto wiring. The new harness looks pretty "laid out" and the document Carl sent with it is quite specific at to fittings, clamps, colors and tracers.

Any help would be greatly appreciated; Where to begin, remove old as I go(?), remove all the old before I start(?), how many cold beers may be required for this specific task??

Thank you!!
Jerry

'47 CJ2A #96661



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2020 at 8:22pm
Jerry,
I made my own harness by copying the original. There really is not much to these things. If you still have the original harness in there, take a bunch of pictures and note what went where. Consider labeling the wires.
 
is is a good guide:
 
Have a wire brush or some sandpaper to clean all of the contacts. I like a little dielectric grease on all the terminals to keep the water and corrosion out.
 
Make sure you have the grommets for the firewall.  
 
Have fun.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GloucesterBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2020 at 9:38pm
Thank you SB!

I already purchase my harness; well worth the $275 and dropped off at the front door. I got a check from the gov to stimulate the economy, so I did. 

I am looking for someone who used the harness to give tips on where to start. I'm looking at it thinking I will get it centrally located and start under the dash, do the fuel tank and tail light, then move to the engine compartment. I guess I will lay it out and start fishing one wire at a time, removing the old as I go. Thank you for the advice regarding cleaning and greasing as I go!!
Jerry

'47 CJ2A #96661



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Steelyard Blues View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steelyard Blues Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 July 2020 at 10:37pm
Jerry,
I'm not sure if it really matters where you start. There is just not that much to them. If anywhere. I guess I would start at the ammeter or the ignition switch. I would save the brake light switch and the tail light harness for last since they will be the messiest.
 
Micah
1947 CJ2A 106327, Engine J109205, Tub 97077. Luzon Red

https://www.thecj2apage.com/forums/steelyard-blues_topic41024_post397981.html?KW=micah+movie#397981

1965 Johnson Furnace Company M416 #6-1577
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fyrwise Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2020 at 4:06am
I too purchased wiring harness from Walcks and will start my re-wire job soon in next couple weeks.  Advice I got was start at firewall/eng. compartment, get that wired- starter, generator, headlights, parking lights, horn, etc. then move into tub/gauges, fuel tank, then tail lights and master cylinder-brake lights last.  
From Walcks I got the harness with turn signals, so I will run the harness wire to the new turn signal switch, but wire that second to last. I will also run wire to wiper motors but save for very last as well.  
  I recommend removing the front seats, it will be easier to wire gauges that way and same if running new wire to fuel tank.  I watched a few you tube videos -that seems to make sense to me. I talked to Carl Walck and he said to call if I need help.  He’s very personable and helpful.  
  Good Luck Sir!   Ps if you come up with any advice during your rewire, please  let me know 
Bob S.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GloucesterBoy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2020 at 11:25am
Thank you Bob! I did not start yet, but, your sequence of installation certainly makes sense. I do have my seats out, currently, so I'll keep them out. I will check back in during or after.

much appreciated,
Jerry
Jerry

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote athawk11 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2020 at 3:32pm
If the Walck's instructional diagram is the same as it was a few years back, (hand written) I found that it helped to draw a line on the diagram that signifies the firewall on the Willys.  It doesn't seem like much, but it helped my brain make better sense of the diagram.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2020 at 3:35pm
Way back when, my harness didn't resemble a harness.   I'd made multiple repairs/fixes using the wiring diagram to make things work.  When I got the new harness (Vintage Wiring), it was the first time I'd seen a complete harness.  The instructions were detailed on which wire went where, but I didn't see any guidance on "where to start."  It took me a while but ended up starting with the lower harness at the front (driver's side at the toe board gusset) and running back along the frame.  Once I was able to locate its start and end the rest for me was easier to visualize.
 
Next was the tail lights.  Then the front lights.  Then the dash.  Last was the passenger side (coil, gen, batt., ect.).  I can't say this sequence is better.  I just needed to see where that driver's side junction was going to sit so that all the other harnesses would reach (not stretched or too much slack).  If your harness exists where you can see all the connections/junctions -  you're way ahead of where I started.
 
Can't agree more with removing seats.  I also added a few 2x4s and a plank of plywood (to flatten out the floor pan drop) so I could comfortably stretch out .  I used a couple of lights (magnetic and headstrap type) to see what I was doing under the dash.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockgod1619 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug. 2020 at 4:06pm
Originally posted by Steelyard Blues Steelyard Blues wrote:

Jerry,
I made my own harness by copying the original. There really is not much to these things. If you still have the original harness in there, take a bunch of pictures and note what went where. Consider labeling the wires.
 
is is a good guide:
 
Have a wire brush or some sandpaper to clean all of the contacts. I like a little dielectric grease on all the terminals to keep the water and corrosion out.
 
Make sure you have the grommets for the firewall.  
 
Have fun.
 
Micah
 
Do they have this same kind of information for the CJ3A?  I haven't been able to find one and will be having to rewire mine soon.
'51 CJ3a - Papa Doc (51829)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rus Curtis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug. 2020 at 3:47am
There is some information on the 3A Page:
 
 
Also some similar info on the CJ3A Information Page:
 
 
What I like about the above 2A guide is a link that provides an interactive diagram with wiring colors.  Probably the only difference (others WILL know more) that I can see is the dash light may be wired directly to the light switch like the 3B.
Rus Curtis
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rockgod1619 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Aug. 2020 at 7:54pm
Originally posted by Rus Curtis Rus Curtis wrote:

There is some information on the 3A Page:
 
 
Also some similar info on the CJ3A Information Page:
 
 
What I like about the above 2A guide is a link that provides an interactive diagram with wiring colors.  Probably the only difference (others WILL know more) that I can see is the dash light may be wired directly to the light switch like the 3B.
 
Rus, I just saw this reply!  Thanks for the info!
'51 CJ3a - Papa Doc (51829)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Long_Range Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2020 at 12:05am
Team G503 has a series of videos that are well done and I think will help you. This video series is not limited to wiring but has 7 wiring installments so far.
Here is a link:


Good luck


Bill



Edited by Long_Range - 15 Sep. 2020 at 12:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fyrwise Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2020 at 12:14am
Thank you !
Bob S.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2020 at 1:06am
I did the under dash work first starting with all the connections at the ammeter, ignition switch, and light switch. From there everything else kind of fell into place. I agree with Tim that the diagram needs a firewall on it to help visualize which side of the firewall a particular bundle goes.

Ol' Red has been converted to 12 volt and has turn signals front and rear so I left that part until last.

Because I found myself forgetting to cancel the turn signals after a turn I changed out the original flasher for one that makes a loud beeping noise. It is just irritating enough of a noise that I never forget to cancel a signal after a turn.

X2 on removing the seats to work under the dash. It isn't easy getting under there. You definitely want to make sure you have all the tools, supplies and wiring right there within arms reach while working under the dash.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WeeWilly Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2020 at 2:12am

  I found it easiest for me since I have neck and back problems when I wired mine was to work through the speedometer opening for the wiring under the dash. I also used Walcks harness.

  Jim
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Sep. 2020 at 3:24pm
Originally posted by WeeWilly WeeWilly wrote:


  I found it easiest for me since I have neck and back problems when I wired mine was to work through the speedometer opening for the wiring under the dash. I also used Walcks harness.

  Jim



X2! By all means, take the speedometer out and work through there. Especially useful when wiring the ammeter and Ignition switch. Thanks Wee Willy, I had forgotten that I did that while wiring Ol' Red.!    
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote drm101 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2020 at 6:27pm
Where did you find the beeping turn signal? If there is one thing I am good at, it's leaving the turn signal on!
If you do turn signals, run a ground wire from the turn signal case to the instrument panel. I soldered a wire to the turn signal body. Mine uses a hose clamp to attach to the steering column and it's designed to ground through the hose clamp, which doesn't work well if your steering column is painted. 

Dean
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rodfrey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb. 2021 at 4:48pm
I too forget to turn of the turn signal and have been looking for an audible reminder signal.  Do you recall what flasher you used that beeps loud enough to hear above the usual Jeep noises?
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