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WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011)

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Ol' Unreliable View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 July 2022 at 10:05pm
The water pump should spin more easily than that...and you should be able to rebuild it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 July 2022 at 10:30pm
Finally got most of the block clean enough to start dusting some primer on. Now it's far from perfect but remember, this is a socially distant paint job. As long as you stay around 10-15 feet over there, maybe more, it'll look fine. Just don't look too close.

Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2022 at 8:17am
Starting to look good from my house. Wink
1946 CJ2A 14098
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 July 2022 at 6:49pm
You know what's not cool? ... well, 98 degree temps with a heat index of 108. Thanks, Arkansas.

But you know what else isn't cool? Trying to drill out a broken oil pan bolt that has a snapped off extractor in it. Thanks, last guy who was in there...

Oh wait, the snapped off extractor was my bad idea. I guess this is penance for trusting those useless extractors. 
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2022 at 4:24pm
I have learned to use a left hand drill for the hole before the extractor.
Half the time it will vibrate the broken bolt loose.
I have a set of leftys just for that purpose and nothing else.

I'd take 98.
We have hit 108 with out the heat index.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 July 2022 at 11:45pm
Where we started, almost 2 years ago...


Where we ended up as of today...



Paint is everything, and I didn't have much paint left before. It's like brand new. Freshly rebuilt. Zero Miles. Craigslist Rebuild. "Don't lowball me, I know what I've got!"
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1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2022 at 7:36pm
I seriously can't control myself when it comes to the details sometimes. It's something no one will really see, but I did it anyways.



Having some trouble with new exhaust manifold fitment when bolted to an original intake manifold, though...



Huge gap on the exhaust side. I asked a question on how to handle this in the general area to get better visibility. Hopefully someone has an idea. Otherwise I have to roll the dice on an omix intake manifold... 
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1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2022 at 7:42pm
Bolt the manifolds together and take them to a machine shop to be surfaced flat as a unit; problem solved.
47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A
64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2022 at 7:45pm
No local machine shops that I know of that can help me. The only decent one in the area used my last project as a doorstop for 3 weeks while they were trying to get around to it between large industrial jobs.
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1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote otto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 July 2022 at 7:50pm
Originally posted by WellFedHobo WellFedHobo wrote:

No local machine shops that I know of that can help me. The only decent one in the area used my last project as a doorstop for 3 weeks while they were trying to get around to it between large industrial jobs.

I didn't see the photo in the general section until after responding here- my bad.

You may have to get creative if machine shops can't help. Like Muley said loosen the four bolts that hold them together until you can fit it to the ports. If that doesn't get you close, maybe taking a round file to the holes for the four bolts can gain you a little room. That's the fun of the Omix.
47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
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If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 July 2022 at 12:22pm
That seems to be the consensus, that I'll need to try filing down those 4 holes to get it to sit flush. I'm waiting to see what some suggestions are from the vendor that sold the manifold on how to solve the bolt hole problems with the intake sides. Seems they have a lot of experience with suggesting how to make them work, since Omix is the only one who makes them these days... 
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1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 July 2022 at 10:35pm
I'm still figuring out the manifold issues. All things considered, it's not that far off base. The 4 flange holes, I can make those oval and it'll sit flush against the block. But the main issue is that the intake manifold flange is 7/16ths and the exhaust manifold flange is 1/2. So all that's stopping me is 1/16th of an inch. I tried to get it to sit in my drill press mill of jankyness but it just won't fit any way that would get an end mill across that surface. The end mill is too short and the chuck is too big. So I can either roll the dice with a different manifold from the supplier, or I can get the angle grinder or die grinder out and hope I can hold it flat against that surface while grinding away 1/16th of an inch on each edge of the flange. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Agas46cj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 July 2022 at 6:09am
If fixed similar issues with a slant six by using a belt sander. It’s not very aggressive and allows you to take a little and test.  I used a 4” floor mounted model. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 July 2022 at 9:48pm
I went to put the oil pan back on yesterday and managed to goof up on that :/ Between maybe being a bit overzealous with the Permatex Ultra Black and trusting the internet for torque specs *9-14 ft-lbs didn't sound wrong), the gasket managed to get squeezed out from between the pan and the block. It wasn't bad when I stopped working for the day but when I went out the next morning, it had squeezed out a lot!



Obviously that won't seal anything. So that got removed today and will get redone as soon as the new gasket comes in. This gives me time to do a better job with a ball peen hammer to flatten out the oil pan bolt holes. They got flattened a little but it apparently wasn't enough. 

Tried swapping the exhaust manifold with another brand new one off the shelf via Jason at Kaiser Willys. Unfortunately it had the same problem as the other Omix-ADA exhaust manifold. The flange of the factory exhaust manifold is 7/16ths give or take a few 64ths. The flange of the factory intake manifold matches that pretty well. 



The one pretty much everyone sells is an Omix-ADA, and they're the only ones who seem to make these manifolds anymore. The flange on those that mates up with the intake manifold bolts is 1/2.



Obviously with this thickness mismatch, the two manifolds are not able to be bolted down. 



So today I carefully had to use my finest Harbor Freight angle grinder to carefully and somewhat accurately grind it down to a flat surface while also removing some of the casting just so I could get down to the machined recessed area. It's not pretty but it should fit now. With the exhaust manifold modified, I was able to look very closely at the 4 holes and how they lined up with the 4 holes on the intake manifold. Only 2 of them are significantly out of line and I can resolve that with a file or an end mill in a drill. 

Additionally, the places where the studs come through on both outside areas is too tall. Factory one is something like 13/16ths, the new ones are over an inch. It means that the factory studs are not long enough to fit a split washer and nut on more than a couple of threads. You'll need to grind probably something like 1/8th off each of those to be able to bolt it down properly. Or just use a longer bolt instead of a stud and nut. 

Up until now, this project has been for the most part just removing old stuff and bolting on new stuff. Aside from brake lines this is the most "built not bought" thing I've had to do. So if anyone else happens to find this and has problems with an Omix-ADA exhaust manifold, just know you have to modify it but it looks like it can work. As a side note, it's certainly worth noting that you won't have most of these problems if you use both an Omix-ADA intake manifold and exhaust manifold. The new ones are made to work with each other. So if you need an exhaust manifold and you just want things to bolt on and work, get both manifolds. 


Edited by WellFedHobo - 24 July 2022 at 9:49pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 July 2022 at 11:27pm
It took a lot more time than I'd like to admit to get this Omix manifold modified and finally fitted to the engine. But the studs are sealed up, dad had to find two longer studs for the ends because the standard ones wouldn't allow for a lock washer on the stud, the surfaces were prepped for the new gaskets, and it's all torqued down to spec. Here's hoping that there are no exhaust leaks. (Or intake leaks.)



Edited by WellFedHobo - 31 July 2022 at 11:28pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2022 at 7:04pm
At some point I have to stop "making it pretty" and get it back together so I can drive it.



I've at least got all the engine accessories found and stuck back on the engine at this point so I'm ready to find the rest of the transfer case parts and put the transfer case back together. Once that's done, I just have to re-re-re-re-rebuild the T90, hoping I can get the blocking ring/2nd gear/3rd gear problem fixed. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug. 2022 at 11:12pm
The transfer case is starting to come back together. I've been having to do a little at a time here and there as I find 30-45 minutes at a time. The problem right now is that I can't seem to find a local shop that'll turn a brake drum and the emergency brake needs to be turned, though it might be out of spec. My local O'Reilys won't even do it because they can't find the spec for a 1948 in their computer. My local Napa doesn't do them anymore either. 

I might also need to replace at least the front yoke. It was loose enough to remove by hand effortlessly. The back one, which I guess is called the companion flange, has a bit of pitting and also comes out somewhat easily but not as easy as the front did. 

I forgot to check the spec on the sliding gear shift fork. It's supposed to have something like .012 clearance between it and the gear but mine has more like .018 over that... so like 0.030+ most likely. It might be ok? But I also put the whole case mostly back together before I realized it so it wouldn't be fun to take it all apart again to swap shift forks.


All I know is that it has been sitting on my workbench for 6 months in pieces and I want it back together... but I also want it to work right in the end.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Sep. 2022 at 3:39pm
So on the left is the shift fork I forgot to look at before rebuilding. On the right is a NOS shift fork that came in yesterday.

 "Check shift forks for excessive wear" - Don't skip that step...


Yeah, the entire face of this side is just gone. Pretty sure the previous owner ran it very low on oil for a long time for that to happen.


Edited by WellFedHobo - 03 Sep. 2022 at 3:43pm
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
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