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WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 July 2021 at 8:38pm
Finally figured out the source of the idle issue. Turning the screw did nothing because the throttle linkage was actually pushing the throttle a bit. I had to put a block of wood under the pedal to get it to sit back to where it needed to be. Once I did that, the idle screw worked as expected. But now I'm not sure what to do to adjust the idle correctly. It has a new return spring on the throttle. Not sure what else I can do to adjust it down. I seem to recall that there's supposed to be a spring under the accelerator pedal but I don't know that replacing or repairing it would solve the issue.

Additionally, after letting it run for 15 minutes with its new wiring harness just to charge the battery back up, I was left with a few small puddles of oil. Looks like the rear main seal is toast. Not unexpected given how long it sat and how old it is.

I replaced the shift boot out of boredom and the next step is to pull the transmission cover and finally evaluate the condition of the transmission.

I also hope to replace the tail light wiring, tail lights (what's there is not worth rigging to make them work), and finally install the master cylinder. I picked up a couple of earlier style parking lights to mount to the fenders as turn signals. 
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 July 2021 at 8:17pm
After a lot of wiring struggles, I finally got the tail lights and turn signals working. Not sure how I feel about the placement of the turn signals on the bumper. There were two holes already there and I didn't want to drill holes in the fenders if I didn't have to, and they'll work, but I don't know that they look right, you know? 

I also added a horn from Kaiser Willys, the small pancake style that's supposed to be the closest thing to an original that's produced today. The pitch is way too high, though. Not sure how much I like it.

Also replaced another brake line that I had opted to leave alone. It was a bad choice to leave it, given how full of mud it was. I guess this means I'll do the final hard line on the front passenger side. At this point, the rest of the brake lines are replaced. Guess I should make it 100%. 

I'm still sharing the progress in a blog style of video on YouTube, a week or so at a time. Can't believe I'm up to 42 of these videos but these do take awhile to figure out when you have no idea what you're doing. 


Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 3:56pm
Finally replaced the last hard line yesterday. The brake system is now 100% brand new, from master cylinder to wheel cylinders. Very glad I replaced it since it too was full of muddy brake fluid with hints of rust. Next step is to bench bleed the master cylinder and install it, then do a full bleed of the system. Then on to the "major" adjustment since drums and shoes are also new.

I've replaced basically every single wire in the Jeep except for the big line from the starter relay to the starter itself. It wasn't in bad shape. Yet for some reason, the battery still loses its charge if the Jeep isn't started for a few days. I have a couple of 10 gauge wires that aren't in terrible shape to replace between the alternator and ammeter. That's my last idea, unless this brand new battery from September/October? is somehow bad. 

I've picked up some GL1 gear oil from my local Tractor Supply for the transmission and transfer case. Really starting to wish I had a group of vintage Jeepers in Little Rock to compare shift actions. The transmission feels like it shifts into R-1-2-3 ok. Reverse feels a little... weaker? than 1, and 3 also feels a bit weaker. Like it doesn't move far enough. (Or maybe it's shifting into a chunk of rust.) Shifting into 1 and 2 has a good solid "thunk" to it. Given that I have no basis for comparison, I don't know what I should expect. I'm also worried about the transfer case. I know it was full of rust already, but I'm also worried about the 2wd/4wd shifter. The high/low shifter gives a good solid "click" when shifting it. But the 2wd/4wd lever doesn't seem to do much of anything. It moves but doesn't click up or down. Something else to look into when I get to that next stage.

I've still gotta figure out the ebrake cable adjustment as well. It should be pretty straightforward, putting the clamp on the firewall and the trans crossmember and putting the cable onto it where the metal gets a bit wider to hold it in place. But I still have to pull the lever almost all the way out before it even begins to engage. The threaded part of the cable is all the way into the clevis as well. It's almost like the cable is just a little bit too long? Not sure.

Overall, the thing is nearly ready for its first test drive. I need to drain/flush/refill the transmission and transfer case, change the oil/oil filter/oil lines, do the basic "tune up" maintenance items like points, condenser, cap, rotor, then go drive it. 
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 5:59pm
While installing the new master cylinder, I managed to break one of the terminals off the brake light switch. 

$#%& -- (Actual translation since I spent a whole minute inventing a new language consisting of only four letter words.)
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dutch 1960 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 6:04pm
Probably the e-brake shoe adjustment is out of whack, rather than the cable.  The cable pulls a long way because the lever arm connected to the e-brake shoes pulls a long way.

The shoes adjust just like drum brakes on the wheels. Line up the holes in the e-brake drum with the star wheels, adjust the shoes until they start to lock up a bit with the e-brake off, then back them off a bit to loosen things back up.  You should be good to go.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by Dutch 1960 Dutch 1960 wrote:

Probably the e-brake shoe adjustment is out of whack, rather than the cable.  The cable pulls a long way because the lever arm connected to the e-brake shoes pulls a long way.

The shoes adjust just like drum brakes on the wheels. Line up the holes in the e-brake drum with the star wheels, adjust the shoes until they start to lock up a bit with the e-brake off, then back them off a bit to loosen things back up.  You should be good to go.

The shoes are adjusted as well as I know how to. The shoes are brand new so there's very little room in there to work with. I had to adjust the wheels nearly all the way down just so they would fit in there. Any more adjustment and they'll drag constantly.
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dutch 1960 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 July 2021 at 10:29pm
OK, next step is to check the swing of the arm at the clevis, where the e-brake assembly attaches to the cable assembly.  It should move by hand.  Is the end of the arm moving a long way?  Or just an inch or less?  If that arm moves a long way even though the pads are fairly tight, then there is some play in the arm assembly that doesn’t belong there.  If there is a big swing in that arm, it is likely going to collide with the transfer case bottom cover at the elbow of the arm before the slack in the e-brake is taken up.  The other things to check are the clamp on the trans crossmember holding the cable, the firewall bracket, and how the ball or the pin at the handle end of the cable sits in the end of the handle ratchet assembly.  Either there is play in the cable mountings or in the arm assembly.  One of the two must be true, unless the pads themselves are not properly seated in the mount, and are moving around in there despite being statically almost tight.  There are only so many possibilities here, which is why it is worth tackling and getting it done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug. 2021 at 5:36pm
I hope to finish the ebrake re-re-re-readjustment soon, but for now the rest of the brakes are mostly done. I managed to break the brake light switch during the installation... but got the last brake line remade, master cylinder installed, brake switch wired up, and the whole system bled. The brakes were a challenge because there were leaks all over the place. I forgot to tighten one of the S lines, the rear crossmember line leaked, the T fitting on the rear differential leaked, the Y fitting on the master cylinder leaked a lot, but all leaks appear to be resolved (at this time...) 

Just need to do a final re-bleed of the brake system to be sure, then a final re-adjustment of the brake shoes, then the aforementioned e-brake fix, then the last things are the transmission, transfer case, and differentials. (There are tons of minor things out there but that's the major list.) With the addition of the wires from the brake light switch, the wiring harness is pretty much all new.

I felt a little artistic and put the stencil back on the tailgate.


Found a new problem with the transfer case leaking in new places, but I'll have to deal with that eventually... Looks like the usual: seals are toast, gaskets are toast, maybe I forgot to tighten the bolt on the yoke down to spec... 

I'm almost 1 year into this project and still haven't gotten to take it for a drive, but I'm getting closer and closer to that first drive.

The video version of this update is on my YouTube channel.



Edited by WellFedHobo - 09 Aug. 2021 at 7:56pm
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep. 2021 at 9:20am
I'm struggling to find inspiration to keep going on this project. It's frustrating. I'm down to the transmission and transfer case, the weather is getting really good for driving, but I still don't have the Jeep in a drivable state and I don't really have the mental energy lately to push things across the finish line Unhappy

There's still a lot of little loose ends to tie up. A final brake adjustment, general maintenance items, bolting the radiator back on properly, etc. But otherwise the Jeep is ready to go, just needs the transmission and transfer case cleaned up and figured out. And probably every seal and gasket replaced.
Brad
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep. 2021 at 10:03am
Get It Done!

Finish up the radiator, Check the gear lube, fluids and oil.  Put it in 2 Wheel high and drive this Jeep up and down your driveway.  If everything seems good, drive it around the yard, then down the street.  We need a video of that!  It sounds like you transmission shifting is about normal.  You are super close!  

Drive it and let it leak a little.   Put some cardboard under it when you park it.  The transmission / transfer case leaks are very normal and something that can be addressed after you drive this for the first time or take it your first outing.  Enjoy this Jeep this fall!

  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct. 2021 at 10:48am
I got myself a birthday present in the form of new shocks for the Jeep. What's on there seems shot and the Jeep doesn't sit level even when parked on a level surface. Could be the leaf springs too, but I won't know for sure until I actually get to drive it. The weather is getting cooler and perfect and I'm still trying to find the energy to tackle the transmission and transfer case. They could be fine, they could be rusty. I haven't even had the energy to go look. But I think the transfer case is going to be rusty inside.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct. 2021 at 12:22pm
  Shock absorbers do not support any weight. The springs do that. The shock absorbers control the action of the springs. New shock absorbers will not cure your “Jeep lean”. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct. 2021 at 4:01pm
Figured that might be the case. Either way, at least two of the four are toast as it sits, might as well get to replacing those as well. I don't want to replace the leaf springs yet but I'll get to it.

Fortunately, the Jeep Lean is temporarily cured when my... excessive mass... is sitting in the drivers seat.
Brad
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 Smile Lucky for you it doesn’t lean the other way. Wink
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Oct. 2021 at 5:01pm
I got into the transmission for just a little bit before closing it back up. Under the cover, generations of dirt daubers had made homes. (Right click the images and open in new tab for full size versions.)



Once that mess was scraped away and vacuumed I was left with a suspiciously clean surface. Seemed like bare metal but there was no rust at all on it. Any hints of brown are just dirt.



This is what I'm working with on the inside, however.



Aside from the pumpkin spice variety of SAE 90 oil, and the fact that it's pretty low... Everything seems to be in mostly good shape, only a couple areas of surface rust. Someone has been very unkind to first gear/reverse. 



Third gear is another issue... 



I don't quite understand all the bits and pieces yet, and I'm no expert... but that metal plate right next to third gear shouldn't be shredded and pieces of it shouldn't be wedged between the gear like that. So the next thing will be to pull the transmission and transfer case. 

I don't know which variant of T90 this is yet. No clue if it's original to the Jeep or not either. The engine is definitely from an M38 due to the MC prefix on the plate above the water pump but I don't know if they kept the transmission or swapped it too. I can't decide if it's time to pull the body off the frame for ease of access at this time or what. (It's only 5 rusted to hell bolts at this point, right?) Space limitations might be an issue.


Edited by WellFedHobo - 10 Oct. 2021 at 5:04pm
Brad
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote coastiereid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2021 at 6:00am
Way outside your current situation- I didn’t have a email address , or a way to DM on YouTube.  or I’d send this that way- I figured an easy way to put that hood drip rail in- back in one of my Salty videos you mentioned it was difficult to install etc. yes correct but I made 2 locating studs from longer 1/4-20 bolts. Threaded them in and then used that to hold the rail on, and then locate the hinge of the hood on it- mom helped do the lifting.

Worked like a champ.

Deploying again in a few days o I just wanted to give you an idea how I did that.

You definitely got your hands full with that transmission.  You can take it to a shop and have them rebuild it, or do it yourself with a few YT videos and written guide. I watched Schnitzlehaus on YT for the transfer case video.  That’s my return home project at Christmas. 

Cheers friend. Hope the transmission situation goes smooth.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Oct. 2021 at 10:50am
I don't recall the comment but I did pick one of those drip rails up since they were on sale. Had to paint it to stop the surface rust from sitting on the shelf. That looks like a helpful way to install it solo. I probably have a couple of bolts I could sacrifice for locating pins.

The people I've talked to say that the T90 is probably the easiest DIY rebuild you can do, and a great way to learn how to rebuild transmissions. I'll probably go the DIY route with a few guides on YouTube. Rick Stivers has a few good videos on a T90 rebuild.
Brad
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Dec. 2021 at 7:55pm
I got into the transfer case finally just to check it out. Looked great, don't think it will need more than seals and gaskets. 



The old fluid was certainly colorful. It went from green to nearly red as it drained. 


I'm sorta dreading having to drop the transmission and transfer case from below. Seems like it's easier to pull the tub and pull it from above. But everything I've read and watched on YouTube says that the T90 rebuild is cake and the Dana 18 isn't a big deal either. I really do wanna get this thing out there running and driving sooner rather than later but I'm kinda stuck until I get the transmission rebuilt.

Also found that my DIY brakes are leaking at the master cylinder. Not sure if I didn't crush the crush washers enough or what, and one of the fittings was definitely leaking too.
Brad
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