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WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011) |
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WellFedHobo 
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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 Posted: 31 Jan. 2022 at 11:55pm |
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The drivetrain is out. My back hurts. I couldn't have done that without my buddy David who drove up from Texas for work, but stopped by for about 4 hours to knock this out. 
There's a thorough cleaning coming up and a new list of parts to order. One engine mount was toast, might as well do both. Found out that the speedometer cable was broken. Looks like it got bound up at the transfer case. Forgot to undo the throttle cable but I've got a new one.
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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Bufordjeep
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Joined: 12 Aug. 2009 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 506 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2022 at 4:09am |
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Rebuilding a t90 trans currently. Suspect... That shredded plate is #4 in the schematic shown inhttps://www.kaiserwillys.com/t90-transmission-5372. May want to check out Rick Stivers YouTube reassembly video #3. He explains why the washer got chewed up (installed backwards). IMO
Edited by Bufordjeep - 01 Feb. 2022 at 4:11am |
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WellFedHobo
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Posted: 01 Feb. 2022 at 9:05am |
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I agree, likely in backwards. I had to make a YouTube playlist of Rick Stiver's videos because he didn't have one. Lots of good information.
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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WellFedHobo
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Posted: 13 Feb. 2022 at 10:38pm |
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Finally started scrubbing down the transmission and transfer case just so I can pressure wash it and begin the teardown and rebuild. I'm seeing a lot of mixed information on the internet about Dana Spicer 18 transfer cases. Anyone know if there are resources or forum threads that might help me understand if this transfer case is "correct" for a 1948 CJ2A? I know the engine is from an M38 and my transmission seems to have a manufacturing date of November 26 1947 so it might be original for my '48? Might be worth noting that the date code is upside down on the casting. Thought it was funny.
 (This is mainly for my information, I already know the Jeep is something of a Frankenstein. Tub is original from 1948, at least one fender is from another CJ2A, the windshield is from a VEC CJ2A, Bubba has done some welding up front, etc. Just trying to document what I actually have.)  Kinda weird how something chomped a bite out of the tag.
Edited by WellFedHobo - 13 Feb. 2022 at 10:52pm |
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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Bill2A
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2018 Location: Fort Worth, Tex Status: Offline Points: 517 |
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Posted: 14 Feb. 2022 at 11:31am |
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I think like most of them from that far back, you have a survivor.
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1946 CJ2A 14098
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WellFedHobo
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Posted: 14 Feb. 2022 at 3:16pm |
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I guess it might also matter to make sure I order the right rebuild parts. But it's definitely a survivor and I really hope I can get it back on the road by this summer.
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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WellFedHobo
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Posted: 19 Feb. 2022 at 10:51pm |
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My workbench has never been such a huge oily mess.
Transmission and transfer case are separated. The transfer case is going to need a bit of work. Wish I knew of a local shop that would hot tank it for me. It looks like the head of the bolt that holds the two levers on has been sheared off somehow. The bearing on the front of the transfer case was extra crunchy and came right out with the transmission. It has some rust inside and outside that I couldn't see from below. In past decades it looks like someone also took an angle grinder to it when cutting out old floor rust. It's a C18-15-10-3 casting so it looks like I ordered the right parts. The transmission seems to be about as we expected. I think I have all the parts I need on hand.  |
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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TMRoper
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Posted: 20 Feb. 2022 at 8:59am |
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You need a bigger work bench!😉
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WellFedHobo
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Posted: 20 Feb. 2022 at 10:03pm |
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Things aren't looking great in the transmission. I'm starting to get concerned that the case itself might end up out of spec. The seller claimed that his late friend, whose estate he bought the Jeep from, "was really particular about his Jeep and did everything the right way." I'm beginning to think that the guy really didn't like this poor Jeep. Who knows how long he drove it like this...?  
Gotta do a lot of deep cleaning of components to see how badly rusted the gear teeth are. I want to do this right the first time because I don't wanna have to pull the whole drivetrain just to do all this again. The really concerning part is that I'm not finding all the missing pieces. There should be more left of the cage that kept those ball bearings in place. There wasn't much at all that fell out when the front bearing retainer was pulled. There should be chunks of metal in the case from that destroyed flat washer. Nope, none found yet.
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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Bill2A
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2018 Location: Fort Worth, Tex Status: Offline Points: 517 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2022 at 10:33am |
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Dontcha just love it when you find that something has happened that clearly cannot happen?
Maybe the bearings are stuck in a layer of grunge under the cluster. Or maybe you will be wondering from now on.
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1946 CJ2A 14098
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jhg
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Joined: 07 Nov. 2016 Location: colorado Status: Offline Points: 917 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2022 at 10:36am |
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Interesting. Running it like that must have been noisy.
I bought a transmission and the main bearing had split. I think it must have been behind a V-8 hack or something. No way a go-devil did that.
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1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Bruce W
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Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9651 |
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Posted: 21 Feb. 2022 at 12:32pm |
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I had one like that. Most of the balls had exited via a new vent in the bottom of the case.
 BW
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It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
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WellFedHobo
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Posted: 23 Feb. 2022 at 12:22am |
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I'm about to make another parts order for transmission pieces. The exploding front bearing actually trashed the oil catcher and reverse idler gear, among other things.
I am never going to financially recover from this thing. "JEEP: just empty every pocket"Really though, I wanted a CJ2A or CJ3A and this one popped up locally. Seemed like it wasn't too bad off. But at this point I could have found one that actually ran and drove (and maybe even stopped) for what I've picked up in parts and new tools to install said parts. It's a sunken cost fallacy. But now I feel like I really do need to rescue the thing, as badly as it has been mistreated.
Edited by WellFedHobo - 23 Feb. 2022 at 12:23am |
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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dasvis
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Posted: 23 Feb. 2022 at 7:40am |
Welcome to the club.
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1947 CJ2A #88659 "Rat Patrol"
1953 CJ3A #453-GB1 11266 "Black Beauty" 1964 Thunderbird convertible ..... & one of them moves under it's own power!! |
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WellFedHobo
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Posted: 25 Feb. 2022 at 11:30am |
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Here's the image heavy after action report on the contents of the transmission case. The short version is that there was a lot of shrapnel circulating which caused damage. I think I may have to replace nearly everything. (These are high res images so you can right click them and open in a new tab to view the detailed carnage.)
Shims absolutely destroyed.   Cluster gear doesn't look that bad but has pitting and chunks of metal embedded in between teeth    The front end of the gear has much scoring from the circulating metal bits  The bore was worn and scored    Second gear bushing was fine  The rest of second gear, not so much. Pitted and rusted.    Blocking rings looked okay...  Until you see the metal embedded on the inside  Main shaft has some wear and tear from the rear bearing (and the oil slinger won't come off)  The oil catcher caught some metal as well as got rusted a bit  Synchronizer spring was broken  Some of the fun from the bottom of the case    RIP front washer  And the front bearing that caused it all has become a 75 year old fidget spinner.  I'm certainly open to comments and input, but it already looks like I need a new main gear, new second gear, new cluster gear, new countershaft, new first gear, all new bearings and needle bearings, new blocking rings, a synchronizer clutch rebuild, new snap rings all around, basically everything but the case. I want to do this right so I don't have to pull the engine and everything again to redo it later. I still can't get the reverse idler gear and shaft out of the case though, and given the amount of glitter in there, I'd really like to do so just to get a deep clean done...
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
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Posted: 25 Feb. 2022 at 12:02pm |
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The reverse idler gear shaft drives out to the rear of the case from the front. If you have the availability of a press you could put slightly smaller diameter shaft on the end of the idler shaft on the inside of the case and use a thick, short section of barstock supported on the other end of the barstock by a spacer equal to the length of the idler shaft and smaller shaft. Support the case on the press bed making sure that the idler shaft is free to come out the back of the case. Pressing on the cross bar should free the idler shaft. The idea is to get the press nose to press parallel to the idler shaft. A drift punch sticking out of the front of the case usually won't do the trick because it is angled enough to glance off the end of the idler shaft and may even hit and ding the case while glancing off the end of the idler shaft.
If I were you I would replace the 2+3 syncronizer as an assembly rather than replacing just the dogs and syncronizer rings. Always replace second gear...as you have planned to do. When rebuilding, pay close attention to the end play on the main shaft. If the end play is too much it will cause 2nd gear to jump out of gear. Edited by SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A - 25 Feb. 2022 at 12:03pm |
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46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
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WellFedHobo
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Joined: 16 Sep. 2010 Location: Little Rock, AR Status: Offline Points: 638 |
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2022 at 12:51pm |
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Not sure if anyone was following this from the Youtube side of things but here's me working on getting the transmission torn down. I don't post these all that often because I don't usually push self promotion too much. It's just me doing the work, though. I have a follow up video that's coming out in the next day or so that really shows the pitting and damage. I'd like to better understand anyone's feedback because some people are telling me to run the gears as-is, but others say that if there's any pitting on the gears, to not use them because the rust pitting will eat up the gears in the long run. And I'd personally like to build this transmission for the long run. [edit] Oops, looks like I actually had it scheduled for today at noon. Here's the close look at gear conditions. Edited by WellFedHobo - 27 Feb. 2022 at 1:23pm |
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Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy" 1945 T3-C #1431 |
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Flatfender Ben
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Posted: 27 Feb. 2022 at 9:12pm |
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Keep it up your almost ready for that test ride!!
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1946 cj2a desert dog
1946 cj2a bulldog 1948 cj2a blue jeep 1953 cj3b yard dog 1955 willys wagon 1955 willys pickup 1956 willys pickup boomer 1960 fc 170 1968 jeepster commando 1990 Grand wagoneer |
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WellFedHobo wrote: