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WellFedHobo's '48 CJ2A project (#158011)
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WellFedHobo View Drop Down
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Points: 638 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2022 at 7:15pm
I'm wondering if this front casting for the Dana 18 can still be used. There's a lot of the inside lip that has been broken off... 


There's significant wear on the sliding gear's interior surface. Heck, there's a lot of wear on all 4 gears interior surfaces. The front output shaft just wobbles loosely when put into the rest of the shaft. 

At least the bell housing is cleaning up nicely. 
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Points: 638 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 May 2022 at 11:38am
It's starting to actually look like something. 




Edited by WellFedHobo - 24 May 2022 at 11:39am
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Points: 638 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 May 2022 at 3:18pm
I think the project's name is not going to be "Holloway" after the previous owner, but "Sunk Cost Fallacy"...

Edited by WellFedHobo - 27 May 2022 at 3:22pm
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Points: 638 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WellFedHobo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 June 2022 at 2:28pm
Getting really sick of KW as a supplier. I go through them because they have most everything you need, but whoever works in their shipping department just doesn't grasp the importance of packaging gears, especially when the entire box is full of gears. And especially when I specifically asked them to package them well. Because, you know... Gears!

This is not the first time either. I'm so tired of dealing with this that I'm not even gonna ask for an RMA or replacement on this sliding gear. I do not have the confidence that their shipping/packaging people won't screw up the replacement too. This will probably end up as a $120 wall decoration as a reminder to not trust them to safely package things so they'll arrive undamaged.




Edited by WellFedHobo - 19 July 2022 at 11:56am
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Send it back and contact Midwest Military.
APRIL
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If you find that KW is the only place that has what you need and packing is the only fault you might try ordering each item a few days apart to force them to package each one individually. 
Same can be said for any other supplier.
1946 CJ2A 14098
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Oh. So that's why the inside of the front casting was damaged. I can only assume the previous owner was out on some rocks and came down directly on the casting. Could explain why the grease fitting was broken off too.

Sand blasting is really oddly satisfying but it sure shows all of the sins of the past once things are clean.


Originally posted by Bill2A Bill2A wrote:

If you find that KW is the only place that has what you need and packing is the only fault you might try ordering each item a few days apart to force them to package each one individually. 
Same can be said for any other supplier.

I've saved a ton on shipping by doing bulk orders for the free shipping, but in lost time... maybe it's worth it to do individual orders.


Edited by WellFedHobo - 09 June 2022 at 10:23am
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Damage to the gear teeth on the picture above that was shipped from KW appear to be from lack to heat treatment rather from a chipped gear from bad packaging. If a gear is hardened properly, it will chip off on the edge upon impact with another object of equal hardness rather than just indent.

In my opinion, after viewing the picture of the gear, is that the gear was not heat treated properly.

Installing that gear in your gearbox would have caused early failure and made a mess of the rest of the gearset and the bearings. A properly heat treated gear tooth will make a sharp file sing when drawn across the tooth. If you get any filings then it would be too soft to last very long in service.

JMHO   
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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I did try to file it down before asking for a replacement and it doesn't file easily at all. I couldn't get much along the lines of filings. And the metal does make a loud ringing when a file is scraped across it. So there's definitely a heat treat of some kind but I would question the metallurgy and the heat treat.

I wonder if anyone has tried to do a proper heat treat of Omix gears to fix the softness problem. NOS ones seem hard to find these days.
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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The indent on the gear was prior to hardening IMO. Poor quality control early in production.
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Originally posted by jhg jhg wrote:

The indent on the gear was prior to hardening IMO. Poor quality control early in production.

You know, I hadn't considered that their QC would be so bad that they wouldn't inspect before heat treating. That certainly explains the cluster gear, sliding gear, second gear, and the new main gear being dinged in odd ways yet obviously heat treated.
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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I'm learning about the wonders of cosmoline covered NOS parts. These days new things get a light stingy coat. Back in the 50s, though... They dipped the parts in the stuff. My NOS Dana 18 front bearing retainer had a solid quarter inch of the stuff over the entire piece, inside and out. I swear that thing would have still been factory fresh if it got dug up a thousand years from now.

The only things that have worked to clean it off have been manually scraping the bulk of it off, pouring boiling water on it, and wiping it down with WD40. 4 hours later and it's still not clean. I don't think I'll ever get any kind of paint to stick to it either. 
Brad
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Finally got the manifolds off. There was already an exhaust leak from the hole in the manifold but the gasket was toast as expected. The manifold probably hasn't been off since the 50s. I was fortunate enough to not break any bolts but I did pull all the studs out. I hope to replace them anyways, they were a mix of studs and grade 5 bolts. 


Separating the manifolds took awhile but I only managed to snap one of the bolts.


Got the broken bolt drilled out and the treads re-cut. Chased all the rest while I was at it.


The new manifold is probably an Omix manifold but I think it'll do better then the other one with the hopelessly stuck heat riser and the hole in the side.
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Good work. Keep at it.
1948 cj2a. Rebuilt L-head, steering, T90, WO 636, steering, brake lines. So far.
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Got the engine mounted to an engine stand and started the cleanup and paint prep process. It's going to be a "craigslist rebuild". Quick cleanup and paint. "Socially distant paint job". As long as you stay over there about 10 feet away and don't look too closely, it'll look great. 


I was wire wheeling and scraping this thing literally all day. Started around 10:30 AM and stopped around 5 PM. Didn't even take a break for lunch.



It's still not coming as clean as I need it to be for primer but I'm not looking for perfection right now. If I have to paint a little mud and grease here and there... well, at least it'll have paint. 



The new exhaust manifold looks like it'll fit ok. Nice to have a working heat riser. The old intake manifold cleaned up nicely. I'm questioning my choice of silver paint but it'll look better than dirty robins egg blue and rust.



Now that I've got the fan off the water pump, it's got me asking questions. The water pump does not spin very freely. It spins and doesn't feel like it's grinding or anything, but it does take a bit of force to spin it. Not sure if this means I need to replace the water pump or not. 

I'm honestly not sure how far to take the engine down. I'd almost pull the head and paint it separately after a good cleaning, check the bores, make sure everything looks healthy, put on a new head gasket and new head bolts or studs, but I keep signing myself up for a lot of project scope creep. The engine runs well enough while parked so I want to assume it's good to go despite sitting for awhile. 


Edited by WellFedHobo - 26 June 2022 at 8:14pm
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Well Fed Hobo,
 My experience on a couple engine and tranny rebuilds has been that a Shark household steam machine works pretty well in cutting through the grime and dirt, followed by a hosedown with some environmentally-green engine degreaser and blown off well with compressed air or leaf blower. Prime and paint has held up well (used Rustoleum black on an F-head, and Ron Fitzpatrick's 24087 OD on an L-head).The POR15 manifold paint works great and has been very durable on exhaust manifolds; the cast iron color looks great. Have a few hundred hours on them and still looks good. Two coats on the manifolds, each cured in a gas grill in an aluminum lasagna pan with foil cover, did a nice job.
Best of luck!
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Finally, 2 years after buying the Jeep, I drained the old oil out and dropped the pan. The oil probably hadn't been changed since the 80s, given the half inch or so of sludge in the bottom of the pan and in the oil filter (which was APCO branded... and they went under in the late 70s.) 

Getting all the odds and ends off the engine, degreased, blasted, and painted as well. That's a very long process. (One of those oil canister brackets needed a final coat but I ran out of paint...)



The oil pan has some history for sure. The skid plate is half broken off and there's a chunk that was obviously badly dented and was hammered/welded back into shape. Seems to work fine so it's just added character at this point. 

Also got the manifolds assembled and the heat riser set up. I used the original spring instead of the one that came with it. Seems to work fine. 
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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Here's the distilled down version of some recent work.
Brad
1948 CJ2A #158011 "Sunk Cost Fallacy"
1945 T3-C #1431
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