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.014" or .016"???

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SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 11:43am
I recently adjusted the valve tappets on Ol' Red, which was more or less just checking them. One exhaust tappet was slightly off at .015" instead of .016". My shop manual said to set the tappets at .016" cold. I did this and buttoned up the valve cover and am running it that way. All is good, I guess.

After she's all together and running, I am reading some more literature and notice that it called for .014".

So, what is the deal? Is it .014" or .016"? Does it matter? If either setting will work, which is better, and why?

Educate me on this...
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 12:10pm
you want 0.016 Wink

The 0.014 is an older spec that was revised, though I don't recall exactly why.


Edited by mbullism - 17 Sep. 2020 at 12:12pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 12:51pm
Thanks Mike! I guess Ol' Red is good to go to Colorado Fall Color tour.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Lee MN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 1:09pm
An older and very wise mentor of mine once told me (valve adjusting) “If you can hear them (ticking) they aren’t burning!”... That being said, favor the loose side 🙀

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 1:43pm
Could the new spec have to do with rotating valves? or did the new spec come out before rotating valves?

Chug A Lug
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 1:44pm
I set them to .016. 

I figure it is always better to have a little more lash than to have them too tight, and there is not much difference between .014 and .016 anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 2:01pm
Mark,

My guess is the new spec had to do with avoiding burnt valves on existing engines.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark W. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 4:11pm
Yes right after I posted that I knew it couldn't be as the spec changed well before rotating valves showed up in production.
Chug A Lug
1948 2A Body Customized
1949 3A W/S
1957 CJ5 Frame Modified
Late 50's 134L 9.25"clutch T90A D18 (1.25") D44/30 flanged E-Locker D25 5.38 Since 1962
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 5:21pm
  At .016, the valve remains on the seat longer and has more time to shed heat to the block. You do lose a (tiny) bit of lift, duration and overlap but I doubt that any of us could feel the difference. Wink
For racing purposes, .014. For longevity, .016. Depending on my mood, I often split the difference and set them at .015. No issues that I’m aware of. Again, as the old tractor manufacturers used to advise, “Don’t ‘lug’ your engine.”
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 5:40pm
Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

For racing purposes, ...

Now that right there is funny LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 5:54pm
Hey, if they can race lawnmowers we can race Jeeps.Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep. 2020 at 6:12pm
We raced jeeps in the mud back in the day but it wasn't a L134 motor.

CJ5 with a Rat motor, Dana 44 front, Dana 60 rear.
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)

U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaksjep Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2020 at 6:10am
Originally posted by mbullism mbullism wrote:

Originally posted by Bruce W Bruce W wrote:

For racing purposes, ...

Now that right there is funny LOL


I had a friend and his Dad who owned a machine shop and built L134 engines for drag racing at the sand dunes.  They built them to run the L134 at 700-8000 rpm all day!!!

When I was in High School, they built my Dad an L134 for his '47 CJ2A and it ended up being my daily driver to school and back.  They didn't build it "full race", but they did zip it up quite a bit and what a blast it was driving it.  You could feel just how effortless and smooth it would zoom right up to 5000 rpm.
My posts are my personal opinion and are not legal advice as I am not an attorney. If you act on any of my comments you do so at your own risk.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ol' Unreliable Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep. 2020 at 6:17am
I thought I had read somewhere in the last 40-something years that the change from .014" to .016" was mostly for the convenience of the mechanic.  
There's a reason it's called Ol' Unreliable
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote outlw21 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2020 at 4:00am
look up Service Bulletin 48-52 in Service bulletin of the Research & History section
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mbullism Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep. 2020 at 11:19am
Those who do not learn from history are doomed to repeat it... Welcome to 1930's Germany
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