Play &quot;What&#039;s this hole for?&quot; with me...

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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 8:43pm

Pretty much what I was thinking...

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Posted: 15 May 2021 at 8:31am

BUTA46 wrote:

...a threaded cylinder welded to a flat plate welded to the inside of the seat frame.

On this seat frame bolt. Thinking about this a little more. (Like I always do..... OCD - haha!)

Just making sure I'm seeing what I think I'm seeing. It's a thru-hole, penetrates both sides of the frame/tube, yes?

And the inner threaded piece (or insert nut) is against the inside wall of the tube AWAY from the wheelhouse, not closest to the wheelhouse. In other words, when you screw in that bolt from the wheel well, it has to pass most of the way through the frame tubing before it gets to the threads.

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Posted: 15 May 2021 at 9:30am

Not quite. The hole goes through both sides of the tube but the "nut" is tight against the outside of the opposite side to the wheel house, between the tube and the seat back pan. Fairly easy to fab up with BUTA's modified T-nut idea. Apologies for my earlier post about thinking that it was a threaded punched hole. I was thinking of something else I guess. I’ll post a picture shortly.

This happens to be a GPW if that matters, but my MB was exactly the same and I assume your early 2A is the same as well. Check out BUTA46's second picture, shows the same thing but from the bottom view.

Edited by JAB - 15 May 2021 at 10:20am

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Posted: 15 May 2021 at 10:43am

Good image. My photos are a bit fuzzy on my "T" nut. They do make them without the barbs:

tee nuts | McMaster-Carr

but "mutilating" a common T nut from the hardware store would be convenient. The trick is getting it into the frame. If the seat pan were not in the way, it would be much easier to attach. To ensure alignment, it seems installing the seat and then the bolt - before welding - would keep the threads lined up for the wheel well.

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Posted: 15 May 2021 at 1:02pm

JAB wrote:

Not quite. The hole goes through both sides of the tube but the "nut" is tight against the outside of the opposite side to the wheel house, between the tube and the seat back pan. Fairly easy to fab up with BUTA's modified T-nut idea. Apologies for my earlier post about thinking that it was a threaded punched hole. I was thinking of something else I guess. I’ll post a picture shortly.

Thanks very much for that, JAB! That now makes everything totally clear. All I've got to do is do it. And the explanation makes sense, too.

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Posted: 15 May 2021 at 1:02pm

If you can get it to fit into the tube, a full size hex nut welded to a flat piece would be stronger.

There's not much to a T nut.

1946 CJ2A 14098

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Posted: 15 May 2021 at 6:56pm

Bill2A wrote:

If you can get it to fit into the tube, a full size hex nut welded to a flat piece would be stronger.

There's not much to a T nut.

You don't know Vintage Don too well, do you? LOL! If it doesn't mimic stock, "improvement" or not, he's not gonna do it!

;-)

-Jeff

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Posted: 15 May 2021 at 10:50pm

Hahahaha! JAB knows me too well!

< With apologies to those of you who may have already seen this equivalent posting on OldWillyForum, I'm going to try to post here, with some videos - just for fun, and for folks who don't venture over to OWF but might enjoy this. >

A few days ago, I tackled the driver side floorboard, as talked about above somewhere - which is mostly sound, but it does have some rust-through (we're gonna make that disappear! haha)

I had laid out the necessary cuts - which was actually just two fairly small pieces - to capture all the rotted metal.

The smaller one on the left is fairly tricky, though. That patch has to pass UNDER the bottom of that cowl reinforcement gusset, and tie in to the step on the outboard side of the tub.

And obviously the step had issues of its own there...

That brings us to the first video (with sound), figuring out that patch:

So the hardest part of making that happen was cleaning out the remnants of the old metal in that passageway, under the gusset. It's only enough clearance for a piece of 16 gauge sheetmetal - and you gotta somehow reach back in there and clean it up for the patch to slide through it. That took me an hour.

Here's the inside view of the hole (circled, doesn't show up very clearly), and the paper template you just saw in the video above - and the steel patch finally shaped.

And then a long time with 'doing surgery' to the re-pop step piece, cutting it down to just the part of it I wanted to use.

But we got there! Which brings us to the second video -

So tomorrow will be a bunch of finicky welding work, and then some really detailed grinding work. Clearly, a lot of it will have to be done with the Dremel.

I'm going to have to make the butt-weld seam across that step invisible when I'm done.

That'll be fun...

Edited by Vintage Don - 15 May 2021 at 10:54pm

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Posted: 28 May 2021 at 1:59pm

Just to complete this part of the story, after the Aurora Reunion, I've been chipping away at this (first) step, and floor repair on the driver's side.

Got the step from where I started, described above -

Through what I described up above, to the final "body work" - which trying to make the seam across that flat surface and across that tight 90 degree bend up into tying it in smoothly with the vertical tub wall was WAY above my pay grade!!

But I got color on it last evening. Not happy with my match yet, already sanded this first coat down to try again, but getting close.

And I've got the driver's side floor patches and repairs into primer now.

Which brings me over to the passenger side next. Which has a whole different set of issues and challenges.... haha

Edited by Vintage Don - 28 May 2021 at 2:00pm

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Posted: 28 May 2021 at 3:38pm

I think you are doing an admirable job of matching old, faded paint- something that is not easy to do. I'm curious what method you're using to tint the paint, do you have a set of toners to work with? Or do you just have an eye for color?

47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A
64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon
If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle!

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Posted: 28 May 2021 at 8:41pm

otto wrote:

I think you are doing an admirable job of matching old, faded paint- something that is not easy to do. I'm curious what method you're using to tint the paint, do you have a set of toners to work with? Or do you just have an eye for color?

Thanks, Otto. The paint? - that's the easy part. Haha! Getting the steel shaped into all my crazy angles and shapes - and getting it welded up properly, and all the pinholes (rabbits) chased away, that's the hard stuff...

On a project like this, I use Nason, single stage. Basic, cheap paint - they call it "Machinery and Equipment Paint, Fast Dry" nowadays, but we used to think it was "real" auto paint. And I put it on with a small brush... at least when I'm working on small patch areas like these projects.

I take a sample piece to my auto paint store (unfortunately 40 minutes away since my local store quit carrying it) - and get them to computer match it. And it's always wrong! So yes, then I also have a small can each of black, white, yellow, red, etc, tint - and I just mess around with it, tweaking it, until I'm satisfied. It's not unusual that I paint an area over 3 or 4 times, trying to dial in the color.

And of course then when it dries, it's glossy - unlike the old paint beside it... So I sand it with 320, and then I rub it flat with 0000 steel wool. That's why I can get away with the brush application. It flows out decent on its own, and then I'm sanding it flat anyway. Depending on what the old paint beside it looks like, I may or may not then rub it out, too.

You gotta remember too, on this Jeep it's not an original color on it, anyway - and (eventually) I plan to paint it properly in it's original '46 Pasture Green. So matching it up acceptably is for a short term improvement, while I fix / rebuild / restore everything else.

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Posted: 09 June 2021 at 4:11pm

I'm still steadily plugging along, both front fender "steps" are done now, and in paint - and many, many holes are gone.

For my next area of "hole removal" I'm looking at my grille. I'm pretty sure the 5 circled holes need to get welded up, but I wanted to check in here so I don't plug holes I'll regret. Thanks!

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Posted: 09 June 2021 at 6:23pm

Weld all five, they don't belong on a stock grille.

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Posted: 13 June 2021 at 10:48am

SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A wrote:

Weld all five, they don't belong on a stock grille.

OK, those 5 holes -

are gone. Next .....

will be getting the headlight bezels in body color, and the parking lights in black.

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Posted: 21 June 2021 at 1:54pm

Nice work Don !! _ _ and thank you for the detailed Thread Post.

I've been suffering with .035" wire with Argon mix gas on my 225mig machine.

My advice for those who seldom weld or plan to weld body panels, is go with Don's recommendation for 0.026" wire, or if no choice go with 0.030" wire.

On the last 2a renovation, i gave up on the 0.035" wire, and settled with pushing 0.030" wire through my liner, but did suffer some feed-roll ball-ups and burn-thru's.

Plan on purchasing the correct size welding lead liner for the 0.026" wire for fewer headaches.

Don't fall into the Hole !

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Posted: 21 June 2021 at 4:45pm

Greaser007 wrote:

Nice work Don !! _ _ and thank you for the detailed Thread Post.

Plan on purchasing the correct size welding lead liner for the 0.026" wire for fewer headaches.

Thanks for that, Greaser!

(By the way, I believe the smaller MIG wire is usually .023" (not .026"), small thing, for what it's worth.)

Yep, I got the headlight rims' dents knocked out, and the rust pits filled, and made 'em match up with the old green paint reasonably well.

The bigger job was restoring the little nit-picky parking lights, which were Missing in Action when I bought the Jeep. Got those on there, too. And replaced the big, oversized (homemade by Bubba) hood blocks with new ones the proper size.

And I made an effort to paint out some white areas on the hood - but really, it needs pulled off, bodyworked, and repainted to be "right." That'll have to keep untill the day when I repaint everything back to its original Pasture Green...

But we've got his "face" from this -

to here, now. So that's getting closer.

Edited by Vintage Don - 21 June 2021 at 5:06pm

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Posted: 21 June 2021 at 5:05pm

nice work, don

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