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Play "What's this hole for?" with me... |
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Vintage Don 
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 Posted: 13 May 2021 at 3:32pm |
I'd be very interested to see (what I assume is) the capture nut in the seat frame itself - for that bolt. Never had a stock seat frame to study, and the re-pop frame doesn't have that nut in there. I'm going to have to make that.
Edited by Vintage Don - 13 May 2021 at 3:33pm |
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Bill2A
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Joined: 01 Mar. 2018 Location: Fort Worth, Tex Status: Offline Points: 517 |
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 4:43pm |
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I got around to checking mine.
My step tabs both have the hole. Nothing in it. Cowl gussets have the hole AND a bolt through it (5/16 maybe 3/8) that goes through the floor and what's left of the hat channel. 14098, Jan or Feb 46.
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1946 CJ2A 14098
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otto
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Joined: 26 Feb. 2012 Location: Orygun Status: Offline Points: 2265 |
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 4:47pm |
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I don't remember a captive nut in the seat frame, just a threaded hole in the tube. Both my jeeps did not have this bolt installed and I only discovered the bolt hole/threaded hole relationship a couple of years ago- it's easy to miss. I still don't use the bolt as I've altered the seats for tall people legroom.
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47 CJ2A w/fuel injected boat engine
48 CJ2A 64 Ford Econoline Travelwagon If you can't get there in a Jeep, get a motorcycle! |
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JAB
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Joined: 21 Mar. 2019 Location: WI 53153 Status: Offline Points: 168 |
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 5:06pm |
I think they just punch the hole, causing the metal to fold into the tube. Then they take advantage of that metal that forms the indentation by tapping it for 5/16-24 (I think it's fine thread, could be 5/16-18).
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GR8GPN2U!
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cpt logger
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Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 7:00pm |
John, This is easily fixable. Both you & the Jeep are mobile. Yet, the Jeep should stay in Colorado. Current real estate ads are available on line. You just need to figure out if you want to live on the plains, in the City, or in the hills west of Denver. Heck, you could come all the way out west to the high desert & be closer to Moab. It is your choice.
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19Cargo42
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Joined: 23 Apr. 2018 Location: Western Mass. Status: Offline Points: 570 |
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 7:07pm |
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Sadly one four-letter word "work" keeps me from the other "jeep." Actually, I lived in CO years ago and loved it, but am a New Englander at heart. I hope to get out to the jeep, which my brother is storing for me, this summer or fall and bring it back east.
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Vintage Don
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 8:45pm |
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I spent the afternoon working on this floor patching and repair. Still just getting started, really.
(I think) I finished removing the bad metal. It was tougher than expected, because I was trying to cut into tight corners, up against the vertical "wall" of the tub side - and you can only get so close with a round cut-off disc, of course. So I switched to a Dremel cut-off to get closer. Then, I used a hacksaw blade (just the blade - with a glove on) to get up tight to it. And there was some chisel work on the old spot welds.
 I really didn't have to remove that much metal - it appears I've got good, sound steel where I stopped. About half the effort was on the little "step" outboard of the tub. Which shares that same hat channel extension under it.  I decided to save the front portion of the original step, and chop up the re-pop step to make my patch from. The front area was still perfectly solid - it was just rotten to the rear where it sat on top of the hat channel.  There was a LOT of cleanup work to get that hat channel extension shaped right.... Bubba had globbed rough welding all around where they meet, from underneath. Which probably contributed to it rotting there. Then got started chopping down the re-pop step to fit. That's gonna take a little while to shape it to fit well.  |
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43 Flat-Fender
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Joined: 22 Sep. 2020 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 9:57pm |
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Don,
I continue to follow along (as I'm sure many others are) with admiration for your perseverance and dedication to getting it right. I may have missed it way earlier in the thread, what welding equipment are you using? Mig, Tig, Flux Core, Rods? Inspiring to follow your work.
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Rob
GPW 94445 (DOD 01-25-43) Built in Louisville KY Engine: MB341746 "Faithful Steed" since 1967 |
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Vintage Don
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 10:25pm |
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Hey, thanks, Rob! That's gratifying .. I'm just trying to have fun and stay outta trouble. Most of the time, anyway.
I use a little mig, it'll all be butt-welding, except for replicating the spot welds.
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43 Flat-Fender
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Joined: 22 Sep. 2020 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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Posted: 13 May 2021 at 11:13pm |
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It does look like fun!
So is that an actual mig device with gas too or is that with just with flux core wire? Also, what is the gauge or thickness of the sheet metal on the floor and the side of the body? TY
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Rob
GPW 94445 (DOD 01-25-43) Built in Louisville KY Engine: MB341746 "Faithful Steed" since 1967 |
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SlaterDoc
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Joined: 03 Mar. 2020 Location: Catskills, NY Status: Offline Points: 222 |
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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 1:58am |
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I think what he's looking for is this  |
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Once a Navy man, always a Navy man!
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JAB
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Joined: 21 Mar. 2019 Location: WI 53153 Status: Offline Points: 168 |
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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 6:52am |
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Isn’t that strictly MB/GPW with the 15 gallon tank/sump?
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GR8GPN2U!
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BUTA46
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Joined: 17 June 2019 Location: Central Maine Status: Offline Points: 37 |
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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 7:30am |
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“-This thread has been very interesting and helpful! I solved two problems I didn't even know I had!😳 The mysterious hole to nowhere in the floor/hat channel and the hole in the drivers wheel well. Never knew a bolt went into the seat frame. Now it does! Thanks
I'd be very interested to see (what I assume is) the capture nut in the seat frame itself - for that bolt. Never had a stock seat frame to study, and the re-pop frame doesn't have that nut in there. I'm going to have to make that.” Yep, this game is fun and educational, I’m liking it, too. As far as the driver’s seat left rear holddown, as my friend Joe and I often say about Jeep’s, “Let’s go look!!” Up in the rafters       a threaded cylinder welded to a flat plate welded to the inside of the seat frame. Sorry for the sorry photos. Me and my phone duke it out on a daily basis. -Phil
Edited by BUTA46 - 14 May 2021 at 7:39am |
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BUTA- Back Up Try Again
46 CJ2A #73349 “Poison Icky” 46 CJ2A #51119. “Rock Sand” 46 CJ2A #80102. “Marilyn Jean” |
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Vintage Don
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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 4:44pm |
It's a real welder, gas and all, sure. Gauge of the steel is a 'light" 16 gauge, runs right about .060" or slightly under, but definitely heavier than 18. I'm patching with 16 gauge.  |
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Vintage Don
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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 4:48pm |
Thanks very much for those photos! That's EXACTLY what I needed to see and understand. That'll be more fun to fab....
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43 Flat-Fender
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Joined: 22 Sep. 2020 Location: Louisville, KY Status: Offline Points: 112 |
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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 5:00pm |
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Thanks for the welding info Don.
Those of us who would like to emulate your success at filling "Bubba" holes are smarter now after following this thread, your techniques and tools. I have a MIG welder but I've always just run the Flux Core wire. Never got around to getting the bottle and hose. Everything I've heard is that it is much easier to get a nicer weld with less splatter etc with actual MIG with gas instead of Flux Core? I might need to finally do it!! I have a handful of "Bubba" holes that I've been putting off fixing for waaaaaay too long. Thanks for the tips and practical demonstrations.
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Rob
GPW 94445 (DOD 01-25-43) Built in Louisville KY Engine: MB341746 "Faithful Steed" since 1967 |
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Vintage Don
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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 5:03pm |
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Oh yeah, the gas helps tremendously with the spatter. Use the "skinny" wire, .023"
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BUTA46
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Posted: 14 May 2021 at 8:34pm |
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Mutilate one of these  |
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BUTA- Back Up Try Again
46 CJ2A #73349 “Poison Icky” 46 CJ2A #51119. “Rock Sand” 46 CJ2A #80102. “Marilyn Jean” |
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JohnB wrote: