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Checklist when looking to buy

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BD1 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 July 2021 at 5:45pm
Some things I look at when buying any older used vehicle:
1. Rust: frame, floors, around the glass, fenders and hat chanels 

2. Glass

3. Does it start and run?, how does it steer? will it stop. A short drive will tell you a lot more about the overall condition of the vehicle than any amount of conversation. For this reason I would never pay more than 4 - 5,000 for any CJ2a that didn't run.

Non running vehicles:
1. Was it exposed to the weather? was the transmission kept covered? carb kept covered? I don't know how many transmissions and transfer cases I've looked at that looked OK from the outside, but were rusted to junk status on the inside. I know the traditional restorers will bear the expense of replacing all of the gears in a T90, or D18 to keep things original.  I am not that guy, I can buy another one that is perfectly rebuildable for less money than any single gear in either case.

2.  Amount of oil and it's condition in the engine, transfer case, transmission, front and rear differentials.
Very low oil, or water in the oil I consider to be a bad sign for excessive wear and/or rust on the gears in any of the above. 

3. Is it in fact all there? Everything from glass, radiators, gas tanks and dashboard gauges all cost money.  Once you get something back on the road for real if you stop and add up your expenses you'll be shocked at how much you've spent on the "minor things" that you really didn't even think much about going in.


Edited by BD1 - 29 July 2021 at 5:46pm
BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top!
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TMRoper View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TMRoper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2021 at 7:59am
I guess I should have said don't rely on the fan to tell you if I the motor is free or not. Most of the ones I have are probably a little further gone than most (mainly because I'm cheap). And the fans won't turn crank without a little persuasion from below. So in conclusion in my opinion and what has worked for me. Sorry if I created any confusion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2021 at 1:40pm
I have never bought a Jeep that was in drivable condition, in fact none of them I have owned even ran when I bought them.

So, I usually start with a Jeep needing a lot of work, but that is what I like to do.

If it has a decent body and I get the engine running good enough I still expect to spend a minimum of $1500 to get one into safe driving condition. If the engine needs rebuilt I calculate another $2500 or so.

I don't worry much about the brakes and steering system because I expect to rebuild all that from the start. 

I do jack the rear end up and check to see if the hubs wobble, jack the front end up to check the steering, and I see if the engine will turn, and if it will I like to give a good push and pull on the crankshaft pulley to see if there is excessive end play. 

I inspect the frame, paying close attention to where the front crossmember is welded in, as they are bad to rust out. 

If the body is repairable non of these problems are show stoppers for me, but checking them gives me an idea of what I am getting and will be part of the negotiation on price unless it is already priced right.


Edited by Oldpappy - 30 July 2021 at 1:44pm
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BD1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2021 at 6:49pm
In my mind there is a big difference between buying a non runner in the 500 to 3,000 range, and someone asking over 5,000 for a CJ that won't even start.
BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2021 at 7:09pm
Yep, unless it has a nearly perfect body, or is something special, I would not consider paying 5,000 for one that does not run. 

So far the most I have ever given for a Jeep is the $3,000 I paid for a 67 CJ5 last Spring which had not been started in over forty years, but that Jeep qualified as something special with only 33k miles on it and a nearly perfect body. I got that one running and driving good with some elbow grease and not a lot of money. 
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote la072309 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2021 at 8:36pm
So what would you guys pay for an original paint/ surface rust only 46? Theres one not far from me but hes asking alot. Says it runs and drives great. Column shift but no indents.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 July 2021 at 8:57pm
Originally posted by la072309 la072309 wrote:

So what would you guys pay for an original paint/ surface rust only 46? Theres one not far from me but hes asking alot. Says it runs and drives great. Column shift but no indents.

Really? ...Sorry, my crystal balls are out being washed.....so I can't see it right now.

Are you asking how much I'd pay without seeing it? Not even a few out-of-focus photos where somebody smeared grease on the lens and took them in the shade facing the sun from too far away?

And how much is the "lot" he's asking for it?

I'm just spit-balling here, but right now I'd pay somewhere between 4 bits and $25,000.

Suggest re-reading the thread?

Good luck!




Edited by Ron D - 30 July 2021 at 9:28pm
1951 M38
1951 M100
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vtsteve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 9:46am



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vtsteve Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 9:50am
I got to go check out the jeep yesterday. It was obviously an M-38. I've searched the VIN and haven't found any records. The backstory is that it was purchased from a fire department by the current owner 17 years ago, driven on the farm, and parked ~5 years ago.

What do you guys think?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ggordon49 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 10:30am
I LOVE it!! Fire departments always take such good care of their equipment! Looks awesome in that barn Thumbs Up
- Don't Let The Fatherless Ones Grind You Down -
- I like them stock, survivor's with original paint are my favorites -
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sparky13 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 12:26pm
vtsteve    

Good looking jeep. Looks like most of it is there.   Get it running and driving and stopping. Looks like a good barn find.   NOW go purchase it! And enjoy it. 
Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 12:51pm
That looks like a real good Jeep to start with. 

If the price is right go for it, they aren't making any more of them.

I would really like to have another M38, so if you do get it and later decide you don't want it or want something else, send me a PM. 

 



If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bill2A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 1:07pm
Being owned by a fire dept and stored in a barn for the last 5 years both bode well for it's chances of being good.
Being used 17 years on a farm tells me it was working for a living, but may have been parked because it needed an expensive repair.
1946 CJ2A 14098
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote muley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 4:38pm
the data plates screwed directly to the dash, instead of a sub-plate, indicate the jeep is pre sept 51, pre sn mc34151. What is the sn and dod on the lower rt plate? if you're lucky there's a matching number plate on the rt wheel well, behind the pass seat, covered by 10 coats of red paint. 

Edited by muley - 03 Aug. 2021 at 4:41pm
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