|
|
|
Introduction and starting problems |
Post Reply 
|
| Author | |
caleyoung 
Member 
Joined: 14 July 2021 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 10 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Topic: Introduction and starting problemsPosted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 2:28pm |
|
Good afternoon all, I am new to the forum and new to
the Jeep world. I am in Southeast Kansas and just purchased a 1948 CJ
2A which has few mismatching parts on it. Overall it is in good
condition. The bed has been moded with sheet metal and angle. Tailgate
is fabricated out of tubing and checkered plate. Sq. tubing has been added to the top of the bed rails,
seats are of unknown origin, fenders are fiberglass and windshield is of
a different year, I think, as it does not have the split fold out window and there is no rust. uploads/11316/1948_CJ_2A.pdf
The generator needs rebuilt as it currently will not charge. It ran till I got it home then died. Got it up and running again until
it reached about 160 to 170 on temp and then died again and will not
start at all. I am going to check electrical system first, then fuel if all is good with the condenser points and distributor. These item's I was told were replaced to new. I do have a manual but I am sure I will have questions as this is a 6 volt system and I am not familiar with that at all. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Hope you all have great week. Cale
|
|
|
C.Young
|
|
 |
|
|
SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member
Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3190 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 3:51pm |
|
Welcome to the Forum, Cale.
Let's get this out of the way first. Where in the southeast of the great state of Kansas are you located? One of the biggest problems with a 6 volt system is the grounding. EVERY connection has to be clean and tight. EVERY one. Without that it gets very difficult to locate electrical problems and get them corrected. I would start with that part of the project first. |
|
|
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
|
|
|
|
caleyoung
Member
Joined: 14 July 2021 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 10 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 03 Aug. 2021 at 4:33pm |
|
Chanute, Ks. to be exact. Thanks for the help. With that information I will locate the grounds and clean and add star washer's where possible. Starting with the starter motor. I noticed that the ground is attached to a different location other than where the manual states it should be with no star washer. Getting the time to do the work will be next. Thanks again.
|
|
|
C.Young
|
|
|
|
|
caleyoung
Member
Joined: 14 July 2021 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 10 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Aug. 2021 at 10:58am |
|
Chanute, Ks. to be exact. Thanks for the help. With that information I
will locate the grounds and clean and add star washer's where
possible. Starting with the starter motor. I noticed that the ground is
attached to a different location other than where the manual states it
should be with no star washer. Getting the time to do the work will be
next. Thanks again.
|
|
|
C.Young
|
|
|
|
|
IronAge52
Member
Joined: 22 Aug. 2016 Location: San Diego Status: Offline Points: 257 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 04 Aug. 2021 at 3:56pm |
|
buying a new vehicle new to you is is often tricky. you have no idea of its history. generally i would first take a compression check of the engine. this would tell the general health of the engine. next change all fluids. including gas. new gas only lasts up to 6 months. my CJ2A would not start once until I changed it. then continue with above suggestions. Jerry, San Diego
|
|
|
gearwrencher
|
|
|
|
|
caleyoung
Member
Joined: 14 July 2021 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 10 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Aug. 2021 at 2:20pm |
|
Just getting back to the thread. I am in process of going through the filters and oils. Still have to do transmission, transfer case and axles. Any preference on the drive line oil? Engine oil was milky and coolant was a gallon low. P O changed head gasket trying to fix milky oil. Did not work. I am hoping I do not have a cracked block. Did hook up PCV valve though may help with moisture. Air filter has been modified for an old tractor filter. Butchered the OEM filter canister. To many farm fixes to list. Trying to get it even close to OEM may be to expensive. Going to get running reliably and keep looking for another. It is running now. Clogged fuel line so I blew lines out and new fuel filter and it fired right up. Will have to re-seal tank as there was crud in fuel filter. Thanks for the help. Cale
|
|
|
C.Young
|
|
|
|
|
WeeWilly
Member
Sponsor Member x 2 Joined: 07 May 2009 Location: Clayton IN Status: Offline Points: 3423 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 07 Aug. 2021 at 5:16pm |
|
If the oil stays milky after running it and it doesn't clear up pull the distributor and check down in the block where the distributor goes for a leak there. If it is leaking there a sleeve can be JB welded in to seal it.
After changing head gaskets and oil 3 time on mine I found that to be the reason why my oil was staying milky. After sealing a sleeve in it the oil now stays clear.
Jim |
|
|
47 CJ2A (Ranch Hand) 48 CJ2A, 48 Willys truck, T3C 3782, M274 (Military Mule)
|
|
|
|
|
caleyoung
Member
Joined: 14 July 2021 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 10 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Aug. 2021 at 12:45pm |
|
Drove it for about 30 to 40 miles with multiple checks. By end of drive it was running clear. Will check again before next outing. I did find that the breaks quickly fade. Will check breaks, adjustment, and bleed them. I also have an issue where the front left tire is wearing on inside. Is this a toe in or out problem? Hopefully not a camber issue. Thanks Cale
|
|
|
C.Young
|
|
|
|
|
DMusil
Member
Joined: 23 Apr. 2019 Location: Wisconsin Status: Offline Points: 271 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Aug. 2021 at 2:13pm |
|
Camber if it's on the inside edge. Needs King pin bearings replacement.
To check for toe in. Measure with wheels straight between the inside of (rear) rim between the two front tires and outside (front) two front tires.
|
|
|
DMusil
|
|
|
|
|
cpt logger
Member
Joined: 23 Sep. 2012 Location: Western Colorad Status: Offline Points: 3040 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Aug. 2021 at 4:44pm |
Bolding & underlining mine. What the ?? This makes little sense to me. It could just be me though. I measure it with the tires pointed straight ahead & between the rear of the front wheels, (not tires), & between the front of the front wheels. I then subtract the front measurement from the rear measurement. This gives me the toe-in. It is much easier to use the inside of the wheels as opposed to the outside of the tires. However, the measurements need to be from either the tires or the wheels. Not both. IME, this is close enough. Officially the measurements should be taken between the centers of the tires. However to get it right, the tires should be of the same size, manufacture, inflation, & amount of wear. I find with these old rigs getting all of the above the same is really only possible with new tires. IHTH, Cpt Logger.
|
|
|
|
|
caleyoung
Member
Joined: 14 July 2021 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 10 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Aug. 2021 at 6:07pm |
|
Thanks all I appreciate the help, I will work on alignment after the brakes. Cale
|
|
|
C.Young
|
|
|
|
|
Bitz
Member
Joined: 17 Dec. 2020 Location: MN Status: Offline Points: 275 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Aug. 2021 at 6:39pm |
|
I read you both saying the same thing. Rim and not rubber for both.
|
|
|
|
|
Bruce W
Member 
Joined: 29 July 2005 Location: Northeast Colorado Status: Offline Points: 9649 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 08 Aug. 2021 at 9:07pm |
|
Inside edge wear could be from a toe-OUT condition, but knowing these jeeps, it’s more likely a camber problem. As was said, check the kingpin bearings. I’d bet my lunch that’s the problem. Incidentally, badly worn kingpin bearings could introduce a toe-out condition, making things worse. Check those bearings before beginning a toe-in adjustment. If you set the toe-in now and then replace the kingpin bearings, you will be setting the toe-in again, possibly right back to where it was before.
BW
|
|
|
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.
Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You! We Have Miles to Jeep, Before We Sleep. |
|
|
|
|
caleyoung
Member
Joined: 14 July 2021 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 10 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 09 Aug. 2021 at 9:42am |
|
Thanks again. I will check the king pin bearings first. I have jacked it up and the left front does wobble a bit, at most 1/8" and least 1/16" when I push pull top of tire. Will check wheel bearing as well. Thanks for all of the help. Cale
|
|
|
C.Young
|
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
| Tweet |
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Topic Options
DMusil wrote: