Need help with brakes

Thanks again for all of your input.  I think that $18 (cheap case of beer) difference is not even close to being a hard decision to go with Walck's (not Walks, sorry it was late.).  I am still glad that I went through this exercise though and hope that it helps others.  Honestly, I was expecting a much bigger savings from Rock Auto.  Brakes parts are important, especially with the handicap of a single chamber master cylinder.  BTW, I already have a new master and that's why it's not on the list.  Also, Carl did email me when he saw my shopping cart that I created.  

If you check out oldwillys forum and want to shell out $40 to become an all-star you can get a 5% at Walck’s, 10% at KW and various other suppliers. So if you purchased the $450+ you would around $22 savings. Still need to offset the $40 fee.  But if you are expecting to spend a grand or do you can break even

Greaser007 wrote: Ok, so mr AdventureVan man, i have just quickly perused through this thread with good chuckles ! We all begin somewhere, and usually on the wrong end first as we dig into the unknown world. Even with a good shop manual, seeing light at the end of the tunnel is a great experience. I liked the photo's of the African Puller for removing axle shaft / brg from the housing. Brakes are worth whatever price we must pay to properly service them, for saving our Butts.  LoL You haven't mentioned yet anything about your "Adventure" Van.    Do you have a Sportmobile van ? I ask because maybe you have a newer Sprinter Van which i have been seeing everywhere since covid closures and global travel restrictions. I have been re-furbishing my '78 Ford E-250 4x4 Chateau wagon since Aug. 2020.   Slow going with interruptions and all.   But, one of the important service items is Brakes and Wheel Bearings. This may seem exaggerated, but end-play for the rear wheel hub bearings .010-inch seems to ring a bell for the full-float dana-60 rear assembly. Not to worry, Adventure, my bell has been rung many times snow skiing, so i am guessing your cj axle endplay was approx .005" ? endplay always feels looser than what we would expect by measurement.   hahaha I always enjoy everyone's helpful suggestions. OH, while we are discussing pullers and pulling methods, (and chain), i attempted the chain method a few years back trying to separate the transaxle on my Subaru wrx from the engine which is TIGHT. I was concerned of "too many links" and not enough impact.    I used a Morgan knocker and beat my brains out in vain.   Wound up making a plate to bolt to the trans-axle and a hole for the puller hook. That worked finally.   I was wanting to check the carrier bearings because of a grumble.  (it wound up being a Center-Diff viscious coupler unit - a $700 piece). I had a Subaru service manual, but there are times we must get innovative with a little help from our friends.          Enjoy your project, and thanks for the entertainment !

So happy to be a good source of entertainment.  I'll provide the entertainment if you all continue to provide the information and help!   

Edited by Adventure Van - 19 Sep. 2021 at 9:50am