Rear pinion seal question |
Post Reply |
Author | |
1wayout
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2012 Location: SW Virginia Status: Offline Points: 96 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Posted: 28 Aug. 2021 at 8:46am |
So rear pinion seal leaking on 48 2A. Ordered part # 998092 from Ron Fitzpatrick and they obviously do not look the same. My concern is when I put in the new seal, the rubber flange that sticks out will not allow me to secure the castle nut back in place and line up with the pinion. Is it as simple as torqueing down the nut enough to make it line up?
|
|
TERRY
Member Sponsor Member Joined: 22 May 2007 Location: BOULDER COLORADO Status: Offline Points: 3400 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Not sure what you mean, the seal lip goes towards the oil, i.e. on the inside of the differential.
|
|
BOULDER 48 2A
|
|
SE Kansas 46 CJ-2A
Member Sponsor Member x 3 Joined: 22 Jan. 2016 Location: S.E. Kansas Status: Offline Points: 3191 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
The new style seal is used on newer models of Dana axles but will fit the older ones also. The protruding rubber molded on the front of the seal is designed to fit in the slinger that is on the pinion yoke. This helps keep the main sealing element of the seal mostly protected from water, mud and road grit. The back element of the seal (towards the differential) has a garter spring on the last part of the seal that provides insurance that the sealing element is snug against the pinion yoke. Of course, the pinion yoke sealing surface should be smooth and not grooved from wear. If it is worn or grooved a replacement should be installed. I have found that sometimes during the installation of the seal the spring will become dislodged from the seal groove and lead to the early failure of the seal. This can be prevented by applying some grease over the spring and groove of the seal. The grease will do no harm to the differential or the seal.
After the pinion yoke is installed on the splines of the pinion along with the pinion washer. The pinion nut is torqued to 200-220 foot-pounds. This will be difficult to do without backing up the pinion yoke with a pipe wrench and a cheater pipe over the handle of the pipe wrench. The pipe wrench and cheater can either contact the frame or the floor on the free end. Care should be taken not to have the pipe wrench contact the pinion yoke slinger. With the pinion nut properly torqued, if the castles on the pinion nut line up with the cotter pin hole in the pinion, you are good to go. If they don't line up, then tighten the pinion nut a little at a time until it does line up. Do not back the pinion nut off to get it to match with the cotter pin hole in the pinion. Install the cotter key and bend over at least one of the tangs. Good luck. |
|
46 CJ-2A #64462 "Ol' Red" (bought April 1969)(second owner)(12 V, 11" brakes, M-38 frame, MD Juan tub)
U.S. Coast Guard Chief Petty Officer(ret.) U.S. Army Vietnam veteran and damned proud of it. |
|
1wayout
Member Joined: 18 Apr. 2012 Location: SW Virginia Status: Offline Points: 96 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
This is great info! Many thanks gentlemen!
|
|
wfopete
Member Joined: 27 Nov. 2020 Location: Dover, Arkansas Status: Offline Points: 305 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
I am in the middle of replacing my front diff seal (pulled it out tonight). I will probably buy a Speedy Sleeve of sorts due to the groove in the yoke as opposed to buying a new yoke. Interesting in that newer diff uses a torque drag spec (usually in IN/LBS) to measure correct bearing preload. No such animal for the CJ2A diff? Just 200+ ft/Lbs?
|
|
Suffer Fools, Gladly!
U.S. Army Iraq Veteran (ret.) |
|
BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
There is a torque drag spec for the Dana 41, and early 44s, but it is only used when setting the initial preload which is determined by a shim stack. So once set, when you remove the yoke it is re-tightened against the shim stack and the preload is already set. Newer axles use a crush sleeve which gets replaced every time you remove the yoke and the preload is re-set by partially crushing the sleeve to a particular torque value.
|
|
BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
|
wfopete
Member Joined: 27 Nov. 2020 Location: Dover, Arkansas Status: Offline Points: 305 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Thanks you that info. I was watching a YouTube video of a seal replacement of a modern Jeep and the installer talked about the crush sleeve but never replaced it. Instead he kept hitting the yoke nut with a impact until the drag was good. I'm not sure if he even could access the crush sleeve without going in and pulling the pinon gear out.
|
|
Suffer Fools, Gladly!
U.S. Army Iraq Veteran (ret.) |
|
BD1
Member Joined: 18 Dec. 2019 Location: Maine Status: Offline Points: 630 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Sorry, I missed that it was a front dif seal. But the 25 is also a shim stack rather than a crush sleeve
|
|
BD
'47 CJ2a, Shiny on top! '55 CJ5 project |
|
wfopete
Member Joined: 27 Nov. 2020 Location: Dover, Arkansas Status: Offline Points: 305 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
Just for fun I pulled the front diff cover off today to have a looksie.
Four of the eight ring gear bolt heads were sheared off. I only found one bolt head sitting in the bottom of the diff case. Jeeze, it doesn't get much better than that. I guess I'll need to get smart on rebuilding Dana 25's or maybe I'll just remove the front driveshaft and put on some locking hubs.
|
|
Suffer Fools, Gladly!
U.S. Army Iraq Veteran (ret.) |
|
Post Reply | |
Tweet |
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |