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Turn Signal Help

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p66monza View Drop Down
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    Posted: 19 Oct. 2021 at 1:15pm

I finally installed working rear lights and turn signals over the weekend.  The Jeep has been converted to 12v and I ran the power to the ignition switch.  

The issue I'm having is when the key is turned to the on position, but the Jeep is not running the signals work fine.  Once I start the Jeep and turn the signals on they just pulse very fast and do not actually blink.  The flasher relay makes a grrrr sound instead of clicking.  

My question is, do I have a bad flasher relay out of the box, or did I mess up the wiring somewhere.

Thanks for any help!

Paul
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Bruce W View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2021 at 1:57pm
  I wouldn’t say you have a bad flasher, I think I’d say you have the wrong flasher. Maybe it’s a six volt flasher? There are more than one version of the twelve volt flasher, depending on how many bulbs they control or what model of bulbs. Seems like I remember a heavy duty twelve volt flasher that covered them all. 
BW 
It is NOT a Jeep Willys! It is a Willys jeep.

Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2021 at 6:37pm
Works good on 12v battery power. Start the motor and they don't work. I don't see how you could've messed up the wiring. Double check all connections to be certain nothing loose or corroded, including grounds.

What could possibly change between the two operating conditions?

Are you running a ballast resistor for the coil or not?

Do you own a voltmeter?


Edited by Ron D - 19 Oct. 2021 at 6:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2021 at 9:14pm
What else do you have connected to that terminal on the switch?
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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oldtime View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2021 at 10:12pm

On a key switch the signals should be on the “acc” terminal.
Along with extras like heater, radio etc.

Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct. 2021 at 11:13pm
Of course Ken is right, but which terminal was not clear in the original post. 

Something changes when the engine is started, which is why I asked the question of what else is on the terminal. 
If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AKoller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2021 at 7:37am
Are you running standard bulbs? If you have installed LED bulbs you will have to run a inline resistor to get the flasher to work correctly.
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p66monza View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p66monza Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2021 at 7:56am
I am running a ballast resistor to the coil and have standard dual filament bulbs.  I did have them wired to the acc terminal.

Last night I bypassed the ignition and wired them directly to the battery and got the same results.  Not running they worked fine.  Engine running, they were flashing erratically and pulsing.  I also noticed not running the relay made the normal clicking sound.  Engine running it made more of a solid buzzing/grinding sound.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bruce W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2021 at 12:58pm
  The flasher is not a relay, but a switch. It has a pair of contact points and a bi-metallic strip. As the strip heats up it opens the points, when it cools, it closes them. More voltage means more heat, faster. When the engine is running and the alternator is working, voltage is higher. 
BW 
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Happy Trails! Good-bye, Good Luck, and May the Good Lord Take a Likin' to You!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2021 at 7:48pm
I was originally thinking he somehow hooked up power to the little side (maybe 8V) of the ballast resistor and low voltage explains the faulty flashing. But now that he hooked to the battery both with and without the engine running it can't be that.

I'm back to thinking defective flasher. A voltmeter would help narrow it down.

I'd expect that any quality 12V flasher would operate on straight battery power and/or alternator power (12-14V) equally reliably. Provided everything else is correct and doing it's part.

It's hard to troubleshoot electrical stuff from so far away.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob W Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2021 at 8:03pm
I had a similar problem with a flasher designed to be used with LED bulbs. This was on a CJ-3A with a stock 6 volt generator. I think the electrical "noise" of the charging system was causing the issue. An electrolytic capacitor between the power and ground terminals of the flasher solved the problem.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote oldtime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Oct. 2021 at 8:26pm
I suggest you find you a NOS Tung-Sol flasher.
IMHO it’s simply the best flasher you can get.
Use a 550 for three prong system or a 552 for two prong system.


Edited by oldtime - 20 Oct. 2021 at 8:34pm
Currently building my final F-134 powered 3B .
T98-A Rock Crawler using exclusive factory parts and Approved Special Equipment from the Willys Motors era (1953-1963)
Zero aftermarket parts

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote p66monza Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Oct. 2021 at 8:10am
Thank you all for your help.

It was the flasher.  I stopped at NAPA on my way home last night and bought their "heavy duty" flasher.  The turn signals now work great.  I will keep a lookout for one the NOS Tung-Sol flashers.

Thanks again for everyone's help and advise!  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dasvis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Dec. 2021 at 8:24pm
I wasted two weeks of my time messing with three different non-working Chinese NAPA 550 flashers until I got smart & ordered a vintage USA made Tung-Sol off of ebay. Works perfectly.



Edited by dasvis - 23 Dec. 2021 at 8:27pm
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..... & one of them moves under it's own power!!
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