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L134 engine for my 46 CJ2a

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JeepN3RD View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 3:16pm
I was driving the 1946 CJ2a last summer or fall 2019 but was running rich, so we pulled and rebuilt the carb, ended up needing new fuel pump, and new gas tank.. when put all back in.. the engine has now seized!!! I have been working it with breaker bar, pulled head, and put Marvel Mystery Oil down each cylinder etc. Been going out about once a week or so trying to get it to move with breaker bar (and starter) but no luck so far.

In theory I have heard I should remove starter and there is a tool that would be "better" for trying to break the engine free via the flywheel instead of the front / crank bolt that I am using now.

So I wanted to see if anyone in the community has a working L134 or a "project" CJ2 with running gear, might be cheaper to buy the whole Willys than just the engine?  I live in Winston Salem North Carolina area.

I appreciate any leads and help. (Or suggestions on "easy" swaps... have thought about like a 2.8 v-6 and auto tranny etc.. chevy S-10 I think but my preference is to keep it originalish since that is the way my dad built it.

Sam
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cpt logger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 3:40pm
The spark plug holes are above the valves. It is very hard to get the Marvel Mystery Oil, (MMO), to go down the cylinder bore. Try using a small diameter rubber or plastic tube on a funnel. You have to work the tube over until it drops into the cylinder. If you are not doing this, the MMO is just going down the manifold & it is not helping at all.

I would pull the head as this gets you access to the cylinder bores. It also allows you to test the valves to see if they are stuck.

I would try to stick with an L-134, it will bolt right in. The next best would be an F-134. It almost bolts right in.
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JeepN3RD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepN3RD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 3:59pm
I did pull the head so I am soaking the cylinders themselves, 3 out of 4 the oil eventually seeps on down past the ring.  The 3rd (from front) the oil just sits there in the cylinder so I am guessing it is my issue.  I keep hoping pushing / pulling on the breaker bar it will eventually break free.

I will try and find a way to post pictures of it as is.


The original build we (99% my dad) finished in 2009, but last few years of his life he did not drive it much and I drove from their place in 2019 to my house, 20ish miles.  The radiator was getting hot / spewed rust colored coolant all over the underside of my hood / engine.

I flushed it several times until mostly clear water, and then added coolant but i am thinking the head gasket allowed water to seep around the head etc.  Thus the eventual rust / engine seizing on me.

Sam
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JeepN3RD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JeepN3RD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 4:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michaeltru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 4:17pm
Any rust in that cylinder?  You might try tapping on piston using a block of wood. Maybe shock/vibrations will help. Great pictures showing a lot of work went into the jeep. Interesting air filter/air horn? Setup. Yep, pull starter in case that might be binding also. Good luck
Mike in AZ
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michaeltru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 4:21pm
Appears to be a lot of rust on cylinder wall. 
Mike in AZ
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cpt logger View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cpt logger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Dec. 2021 at 6:21pm
Patience is key here. Lots of time & soaking with MMO. We are talking weeks, not hours. You might add 1/2 cup of acetone to that cylinder. I would use some Scotch-Brite on any rust in any cylinder.

Remove the starter & pry on the flywheel gear with a large metal screwdriver or a medium pry bar. Be gentile. This is not the time for gorilla force, you will damage things.

Beating on this cylinder will not help since the piston is already at the bottom of the stroke. Beating on it may damage the piston, rod, & rod bearings. It will not be good for the crankshaft either. Please do not beat on either #1 or #3 pistons.

Again, patience & gentle turning on the flywheel through the starter hole is best.

Now if the oil sump were removed & patience was wearing thin, one might try to unbolt the rod from the crankshaft & push upward on the piston with a wooden dowel. Put two plastic or rubber sleeves on the rod bolts so they do not ding up the crankshaft journal. Please let the MMO work for a few more weeks first.

IHTH, Cpt Logger.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldpappy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec. 2021 at 11:51am
I agree completely with all of the advice provided by "cpt logger". That piston is at the bottom of the stroke and beating on it will only cause damage. 

Like said, give the MMO plenty of time, and try again to free it. If that doesn't work, the next step is to provide persuasion from the bottom end. 

This can be done with the engine in the frame by removing the rod cap, covering the rod bolts with some rubber tubing, and tapping with a block of wood and a hammer, but there is a big risk of damage.

From the looks of the cylinder walls, especially the suspect cylinder which looks very rough, were it my Jeep I would go ahead and pull the engine, tear it down for inspection, and decide whether to overhaul or rebuild. I would do this before I even considered swapping in a different L134 engine. I most certainly would do this before considering swapping in a different engine.

To swap engines you have to pull that one out anyway, and to buy another L134 you would either be paying a lot of money for one someone claims to have rebuilt, or buying a cheaper one someone claims was "running good when I pulled it". Either choice is a crapshoot, but if you rebuild it yourself you know what you have. 

This is just my opinion, which I hope doesn't hurt anyone's feelings, but someone put a lot of work into that Jeep, and a Jeep that looks that good ought to be put right mechanically, and ought to be kept in original configuration. 

I am not against installing a V6 in a Cj2A, and would be tempted to do so if I were building a trail Jeep, but I wouldn't do it to one that nice.

If you want something with a Chevy V6, you could sell me that Jeep and buy a Chevy S-10 Wink

If you can't get there in a Jeep you don't need to be there!
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X007925 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote X007925 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jan. 2022 at 2:33pm
I have a flathead that is complete except for the Carb.
It hasn't run in more than a decade though.
It has a 3a serial number and is located in NJ.
Let me know if you are interested and I'll send you as much info as possible.
Good luck, 
Rich
Rich

47 sn 140278 on road

47 junker w/f-head sn 119281

48 project sn 210391
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